48 degrees too cold to use PC?

[nathansdad04]

My PC is arriving soon. It is supposed to be 48 degrees and sunny when I plan to use my new PC.
Is this warm enough? I don`t really have access to a heated garage, so this may be my only chance to polish before the weather gets really cold.

[audiboy]

I wouldn`t think it would be too cold to use, but I think it will take a lot longer for the products to break down or set up.

[nathansdad04]

What would you guess is `a lot longer`? My car is black so I`m assuming it would warm the polish a little being in the sun.
I`ve got a couple questions also about polishing....

I`ve got mostly light very light swirls and cobwebbing, do I use SSR1 first to see if it does the trick THEN go to SSR2 if swirls weren`t removed with the SSR1?

2` X 2` area at a time?

Which Lake Country pad for each of the PB polishes?
Is Pro Polish a finer polish than the SSR1? If so, should I use the PP immediately after each panel is done or wait til the car is complete then repeat polishing the car with the PP?

[audiboy]

I couldn`t really put a time on it. It all depends on buffing speed, pad, and product.

If you have light swirls and cobwebbing, I would start off with SSR1 and a polishing pad. If that doesn`t work, move up to SSR2 with the polishing or light cut pad. You always want to work in a small area at a time(2`x2` is fine). If I were you, I would wait until you are done with the SSR`s before I go to PP. It`s a lot easier to work with one product at a time.

Pro Polish does not have any abrasives in it, while SSR1 has a light abrasive power.

Hope this helped.

[nathansdad04]

Do I start out with a slow speed (2-3) to spread the polish then 5-6 to actually do the polishing?
How much polish do I put on the pad? In the video I saw..they used a quarter sized amount for 2` X 2` area.
How do I know when the polish is completely broken down?

[cwcad]

Here is a link to a definitive tutorial of polishing. It is from BlkYukon who is a very adept user of the PC and a forum member of this site. It is the process that I now employ and see results everytime. Read learn and practice using the methods described and you will have the shiniest Black vehicle anywhere around. Good Luck!!

Paint Care & Detailing (http://melncal.com/detailing/hazing.html)

[Poorboy]

48 is warm for some people :) No problems at all !!!

I would start with the SSR2 if you see webbing and swirls in most lighting..(I probably would have started with SSR2.5) ....use a polishing pad (white for Lake Country) and spread at speed 2-3 , then crank it up to 5-6 and work it until it disappears...don`t worry about using too much product to start so you make sure the pad gets primed with the product, you don`t want to use a dry pad as it will cause its` own swirls. Each pass you will need less product...
If after a pass or two you see you need to step up, then go to a light cutting pad (orange) and repeat...then follow with SSR1 on a finishing pad (either black or blue) using the same steps. DO NOT use a cutting pad with SSR1 ...it will cause more damage than good, it`s a finishing polish ...:2santa

[nathansdad04]

I don`t see the swirls unless it`s bright out and I`m at the right angle. I do have 2 or 3 places that got marred (nose and tail of the car).
Do I use a gray or white Lake country pad for the SSR1?
And an orange pad for the SSR2 and 2.5?

If PP has no abrasives at all, how does it work?

[budman3]

I use a white polishing pad for all SSRs (that is with Lake Country, color varies between companies). Because of the abrasives of the cutting pads, I don`t want to induce any extra micromarring into the paint so I just don`t use one with the SSRs; especially SSR2.5. I think a lot of people make this mistake. They go out with a brand new bottle of SSR2.5 thinking it`ll remove all swirls and scratches. They use a cutting pad with the PC and use the improper amount, not the right pressure, don`t work it in long enough and the finish is far from being swirl free. User error plain and simple.

Using a polishing pad, a small bead of product around the pad, light pressure, and working the product until it is barely visible will yeild great results, IMO

Don`t be afraid if you use SSR1 or 2 and the color doesn`t wash out, you now have a pad designated for that product. The pad will be fine :).

As for the PP, it is a chemical cleaner. With a polishing pad it`ll clean up and oils or other crud on the paint leaving it perfectlly clean for a sealant or wax to adhere to the paint. Now if you use a cutting pad and a rotory with the PP, it`ll get abrasive because of the pads` abrasiveness. So for the cutting ability it is pad dependent. PP will also clean up windows, polish metal, clean the paint, etc. Very versitile IMO.

[Poorboy]

I use a white polishing pad for all SSRs (that is with Lake Country, color varies between companies). Because of the abrasives of the cutting pads, I don`t want to induce any extra micromarring into the paint so I just don`t use one with the SSRs; especially SSR2.5. I think a lot of people make this mistake. They go out with a brand new bottle of SSR2.5 thinking it`ll remove all swirls and scratches. They use a cutting pad with the PC and use the improper amount, not the right pressure, don`t work it in long enough and the finish is far from being swirl free. User error plain and simple.

Using a polishing pad, a small bead of product around the pad, light pressure, and working the product until it is barely visible will yeild great results, IMO

Don`t be afraid if you use SSR1 or 2 and the color doesn`t wash out, you now have a pad designated for that product. The pad will be fine :).

As for the PP, it is a chemical cleaner. With a polishing pad it`ll clean up and oils or other crud on the paint leaving it perfectlly clean for a sealant or wax to adhere to the paint. Now if you use a cutting pad and a rotory with the PP, it`ll get abrasive because of the pads` abrasiveness. So for the cutting ability it is pad dependent. PP will also clean up windows, polish metal, clean the paint, etc. Very versitile IMO.
I agree with everything said above...also remember that swirls don`t always disappear on your first pass, sometimes it takes a few passes or more ;)

[sillywilly88]

Would letting the Container of polish sit in hot water for 10 or 15 minutes before using it help at all? It`s around 42 deg around Vancouver, BC lately and will get colder!

[nathansdad04]

I`ve got 1 white pad coming and 1 gray pad also. Can I use the gray pad also? Unfortunately, it would take another week to get more pads.
What was meant by needing more `passes` to get the swirls out? Do you mean I might need to do the same 2` X 2` area again using the same polish?
It may seem like a dumb question, but will the sunlight be enough light for me to see that I`ve removed the swirls? Or should I hold a strong light over each panel to make sure the swirls are gone?

[Poorboy]

Would letting the Container of polish sit in hot water for 10 or 15 minutes before using it help at all? It`s around 42 deg around Vancouver, BC lately and will get colder!
not really because the finish of the car would still be cold ...I`m also not sure what it would do to the polish :confused:

[Poorboy]

I`ve got 1 white pad coming and 1 gray pad also. Can I use the gray pad also? Unfortunately, it would take another week to get more pads.
What was meant by needing more `passes` to get the swirls out? Do you mean I might need to do the same 2` X 2` area again using the same polish?
It may seem like a dumb question, but will the sunlight be enough light for me to see that I`ve removed the swirls? Or should I hold a strong light over each panel to make sure the swirls are gone?

I`m not sure what the grey pad is but I will go and check it out ...

Yes going over the same area is what is meant by more passes..

I particularly prefer to use sunlight...many people get 5000 watts of halogens and look for swirls..personally I believe that no one exept yourself would benefit from getting that intense as everyone else will only see your car outdoors in the sunlight:cool:

[sillywilly88]

not really because the finish of the car would still be cold ...I`m also not sure what it would do to the polish :confused:

That`s too bad. I`m trying to be creative though so how about if I directed the warmth from a 1200 Watt hair dryer towards the car from about a foot away, one section at a time before I work on it. :confused: