Brand new!!!!

[Carbon04]

I just picked up my 2007 GMC Sierra Classic. It was built 7 days ago and shipped by train. What should my plan of attack be?

1.) Wash
2.) Clay
3.) Poorboys EX-P?

How soon is too soon for sealant or wax?


Being that this one isn`t a daily driver and is stored in the garage I can afford to take my time with things. What is the best route to go? Thanks in advance.

[holland_patrick]

jst a a chemical polish to that and your all set..

[Sparkie]

Get that rail dust off now! Wash and clay and wash again.

[TrueDetailer]

Yep Just clay it and polish if you want then seal.

[C. Charles Hahn]

How soon is too soon for sealant or wax?

The only time it`s too soon is if the truck is going through the spray booth on the assembly line. The minute the truck hits the ground at the end of the line, you can wax/seal the heck out of it. :yay

After you clay, depending on how bad the raildust is, you may need to throw a polishing step like SSR1 in there just to get any marring out (when you clay, if the contaminants are heavy enough, you might induce slight marring).

[BLACKWRX]

doesnt it take a few weeks for the paint to cure.....a wash and clay should do the trick, i wouldnt put anything more than detail mist in the paint......just keep it clean

[C. Charles Hahn]

doesnt it take a few weeks for the paint to cure.....a wash and clay should do the trick, i wouldnt put anything more than detail mist in the paint......just keep it clean

Not for factory paint! At the factory it`s baked on at a very high temp, since the other components aren`t installed yet (anything that could melt) so it`s cured right away.

The only time you have to wait for pant to cure is if it`s been repainted at a body shop -- they can`t bake it as hot as the factory since the vehicle is assembled during baking.

Like I said, factory paint can be waxed/sealed as soon as it leaves the paint shop.

[holland_patrick]

Not for factory paint! At the factory it`s baked on at a very high temp, since the other components aren`t installed yet (anything that could melt) so it`s cured right away.

The only time you have to wait for pant to cure is if it`s been repainted at a body shop -- they can`t bake it as hot as the factory since the vehicle is assembled during baking.

Like I said, factory paint can be waxed/sealed as soon as it leaves the paint shop.


second that...

[Jen@autogeek]

Congrats on the new car. :)

[Carbon04]

Thanks everybody. I will post pics as soon as I get it finished.

Next question, what is the preferred clay/lube for rail dust. Does any work better than others for that specific purpose? I have poorboys as of now, but I am not opposed to trying new. Thanks again.

[Juztang]

I use Poorboy`s S&W with a claybar. Works well.

[derekbmw]

I asked Steve @ PB and was told to use S&W diluted with water, 50:50. :)

[C. Charles Hahn]

Thanks everybody. I will post pics as soon as I get it finished.

Next question, what is the preferred clay/lube for rail dust. Does any work better than others for that specific purpose? I have poorboys as of now, but I am not opposed to trying new. Thanks again.

Personally, I`d go to AutoZone and see if you can pick up a Clay Magic kit, with the blue bar in it. I`ve gotten consistently excellent results with this kit for all kinds of raildust, IFO, etc.

[Maxima Lover]

Personally, I`d go to AutoZone and see if you can pick up a Clay Magic kit, with the blue bar in it. I`ve gotten consistently excellent results with this kit for all kinds of raildust, IFO, etc.

I second that. It`s about the cheapest you will find clay, it comes with lube, and it`s local.