McKee`s37 Tar Max Tar Remover

[Sizzle Chest]

The day has finally come! Nick/McKee`s has released their tar remover. This is the `super secret` tar remover that has popped up in quite a few of my past write ups.

This is some excellent, excellent stuff! My go to is usually Stoner`s Tarminator. Love it. I tried McKee`s37 Tar Max and instantly fell in love as well.

It is a lot easier to apply due to it not being an aerosol.

I`ve sprayed it directly onto the panels that needed it, applied it to a MF towel and applied it...works great either way! It eats right through after letting it dwell a little, and on super tough/larger areas, some agitation is necessary.

Another great product and one that will be on the front of my shelf to grab when needed!


https://photos.smugmug.com/New-product-reviews/i-wgK4Wnc/0/828a749a/XL/IMG_6419-XL.jpg (https://autodermatology.smugmug.com/New-product-reviews/i-wgK4Wnc/A)

[WashRinseRepeat]

So glad you could finally let the cat out of the bag!! How long do you need to let it dwell?
Also, I currently use Gyeon Tar, how do the 2 compare?

[JSFM35X]

I have been a big fan Of tardis. It’s just hard to get. How does this compare. I use tarnimator on small stuff as well.

Thanks.

[atgonzales]

Nick and Mckee’s have really begun some forward thinking on products for detailers that perform as described

[Older]

How does it compare to Tar X?

Thanks.

[Sizzle Chest]

I have not used GYEON tar, or tardis, tar x. I have only used Tarminator.

It compares with Tarminator.

Wash Rinse, the dwell time will vary depending upon the level of contamination/heaviness of the tar. I shot my areas prior to washing, got my buckets set up and then washed the areas clean. That was a few minutes of setup time that it dwelled.

[JSFM35X]

Sizzle approved.

It’s on my list.

I’m just about out of tardis


I have not used GYEON tar, or tardis, tar x. I have only used Tarminator.

It compares with Tarminator.

Wash Rinse, the dwell time will vary depending upon the level of contamination/heaviness of the tar. I shot my areas prior to washing, got my buckets set up and then washed the areas clean. That was a few minutes of setup time that it dwelled.

[Accumulator]

OK...I`ll ask :o ...if I don`t I`ll never know..

What makes a Tar Remover impressive?

Regulars here know that I don`t have much trouble with tar, generally just claying it off (yeah, trashes the clay...and/but preserves my LSP). If I do need a solvent I usually just use ValuGard`s New Car Prep or something like that. Don`t think I`ve used a Tar Remover since..gee, I dunno...my old bottle of 1Grand back in the `90s.

I`m probably one of the very few Autopians who`s never tried Tarminator (and no I`ve never used WD40 either, not for anything automotive in my life).

Other than avoiding ones like the old TW (cylindrical can, white plastic cap) that had (surprisingly harsh) abrasives, what`re the characteristics that people value? I mean, besides being effective and not leaving nasty stuff behind...what hair-splitting differences (sorry, couldn`t resist) am I not considering?

[Sizzle Chest]

^^^Well I am generally using it prior to a correction and coating, so I`m not worried about stripping any previous LSP or anything. I like the ease that it will cut through tar/etc, without destroying my clay or gumming up my clay alternative.

[Accumulator]

Sizzle Chest- Yeah, I can see using solvents when reLSPing anyhow, sure would be quick and easy.

[JSFM35X]

If you have tar it’s a real time saver. Also works on times you drive over freshly paved blacktop.

If you had white vehicles you would better understand. Small dots I use terminator on a pointer finger wrapped in a MF towel. Those MF are trashed. Large areas tardis liquid on a MF or cotton rag. I have also used it in exhaust tips that have tar stuck on.

That’s my process.


OK...I`ll ask :o ...if I don`t I`ll never know..

What makes a Tar Remover impressive?

Regulars here know that I don`t have much trouble with tar, generally just claying it off (yeah, trashes the clay...and/but preserves my LSP). If I do need a solvent I usually just use ValuGard`s New Car Prep or something like that. Don`t think I`ve used a Tar Remover since..gee, I dunno...my old bottle of 1Grand back in the `90s.

I`m probably one of the very few Autopians who`s never tried Tarminator (and no I`ve never used WD40 either, not for anything automotive in my life).

Other than avoiding ones like the old TW (cylindrical can, white plastic cap) that had (surprisingly harsh) abrasives, what`re the characteristics that people value? I mean, besides being effective and not leaving nasty stuff behind...what hair-splitting differences (sorry, couldn`t resist) am I not considering?

[Lonnie]

Yeh!!! So THIS is the "secret" Tar remover that you have been beta-testing and teasing us with. Glad to let us know that it is now available just in time for summer road construction and repair and parking lot asphalt repaving that goes on now.
I like Stoner`s Tarminator, as this seems to be the standard product-of choice for tar removal, BUT I do need to caution that it is NOT plastic-grill friendly or undercoating or flat-black lower rocker panel paint friendly either (my unfortunate experience!).

Sizzle chest:
ANY experience if this product might be used as a wheel balancing weight adhesive remover, as I see on the label it does state "Removes Adhesive"?? I have 3-M`s Adhesive Remover for this, but am always looking for cost-effective (AKA, cheaper) car-care chemical alternatives.

[rlmccarty2000]

Got any idea of its effectiveness against pine tar? That’s my number one nemesis around here. Pine tar becomes more difficult to remove the longer it sits. I usually use a plastic razor blade to remove most of it, but the remainder is a pain to totally clean.

[Lonnie]

rlmccarty2000:
Try Professional Goof-Off (Not to be confused with Goo-Gone) on a cotton rag, let the rag/Goof-Off "soak/dwell" on pine pitch for about 3-5 minutes, and "gently" rub it off with the cotton rag. That suggestion comes from Stokdgs out West.
I`m with you, though, on scratching it off with a plastic razor or scraper for baked-on pine pitch drops. yes, I`ve used my thumb nail on occasion. Those drops, though, that sit for a while in the hot sun will etch clear-coat and paint, and short of (aggressive) wet sanding and compounding, there is literally nothing you can do once that happens.

[Sizzle Chest]

I haven`t tried it on wheel weight adhesive/residue. I did try it quickly on some pine sap. I didn`t let it dwell long enough, didn`t want to spend the time, so I went the old plastic razor blade route and fought with getting it off after it sat for about 10 years! (so it seemed)