Meguiars QD as Wax Off Aid

[FIDOAG14]

Has anyone ever used a QD spray (I use Megs because you can buy it anywhere) as a Wax Off aid?

I had this crazy idea last night as I was buffing off the wax on my truck to give it a light spritz of QD. It made buffing off the wax as easy as putting it on.

I don`t know that it enhances the appearance or adds protection or anything like that, just made buffing off a little easier. I always apply and remove wax by hand.

Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone else has tried this or does it all the time?

[512detail]

does this suffice for my vote: -although- IMHO- any quality wax should not need assistance removing (and that is not why I do this)

https://www.autopia.org/forums/poorboy-s-world-forum/184687-chilled-spray-gloss-shock-method.html?highlight=chilled+spray+and+gloss

[Dan]

If you need something to get it off, chances are you are using way too much. Even stuff like M16 is easy to remove if you don`t go overboard. 0.5 oz should do a normal car. A big SUV, maybe an oz.

[Accumulator]

Gotta be a little careful about doing this as some QD/LSP combos aren`t compatible. I totally messed up an application of 476S by spritzing a tiny bit of FK425 on it, had to strip it off and reapply, which took a while...right when I was expecting to be finished, the very last step of the detail.

I used some FK425 to buff away pseudo-holograms from messing up the layering of FK1000P once, but that was about the only other time I`ve ever tried such a thing, not counting when I used SpeedShine for a pseudo-spitshine application of M16 via machine. For buffing off a regular application of some LSP though? Nah..don`t do it because:

1) no need, all my LSPs come off almost effortlessly, 2) would add work, 3) would interfere with my "fog with breath" removal approach, and 4) might cause compatibility/durability issues.

Not flaming the approach though...whatever makes doing this stuff easier/more enjoyable sounds OK to me. Just make sure your products play nice together so you don`t have to redo the LSP over it.

[FIDOAG14]

Cool. I was just curious!

512detail,
Interesting thread, I don`t think I`ll be going quite that far with it though!

Dan and Accumulator
Yea it`s not that it was "hard" to remove the wax (though I do overdo it with waxing) what actually prompted me to try it was some of the psedo-holograms Accumulator was referring to on the hood. But after hitting it with the QD it really seemed to pull the excess product or whatever causes that effect off and from there I just finished up the truck that way thinking "hey, this is like a hot knife through butter."

[Dan]

Yeah, I remember my first car and putting on wayyy to much of Meg`s Deep Crystal Paste, this was back in the early 90`s. I wanted to be sure I got enough wax on the car! I think I spent a whole afternoon getting that stuff off. A QD would have been awesome then, but they really weren`t popular, at least I never had any. My first QD was Zaino Z6, still love that stuff!

[tropicsteve]

the only wax i really had a problem removing was by leaving griot`s best of show wax on too long. that older version was ridiculous to remove by hand once it dried. griot`s recommended using their spray wax to assist in the removal process and it worked great.

[blucpe]

I`ve done all these processes, that`s not a brag, just a fact. I`ve also never done them by hand, why?, if you have access to a polisher and a finishing pad, why wear out your shoulder? Just sayin.

[Dan]

I`ve done all these processes, that`s not a brag, just a fact. I`ve also never done them by hand, why?, if you have access to a polisher and a finishing pad, why wear out your shoulder? Just sayin.

Time for me. Getting the polisher out, getting the extension cord out, finding the pad, getting the pad well loaded and then cleaning the pad afterwards means more time was actually spent in total. I`d actually love to find a solid cordless waxer and just use MF bonnets that I can toss in the wash. I`ve been eyeing the Ryobi waxer, anyone have one?

[Accumulator]

While I like the idea of applying LSPs via machine, like Dan I find it`s a hassle compared to just grabbing a applicator and the tin and doing it by hand. And doing it via machine *always* ends up using more product, more than necessary..excess on the vehicle, excess left to clean out of the pad. BUT, that said:

-When I had a bad shoulder I could do such stuff via machine even when I couldn`t do it manually; it was the diff between being able to do the job vs. having to skip it, just a different type of demand on the body.

-That pseudo-spitshine application of M16 via Cyclo, using Griot`s Speedshine as the "spit", did produce *noticeably* better results; a diff I really could discern, and if anything I was predisposed towards *not* finding it to be beneficial in any way..did the whole job while thinking "this is a hassle, what a waste of time and effort". The downside was slightly diminished durability (again a diff I couldn`t help but notice) which I assume was somehow caused by the Speedshine.

[FIDOAG14]

Time for me. Getting the polisher out, getting the extension cord out, finding the pad, getting the pad well loaded and then cleaning the pad afterwards means more time was actually spent in total. I`d actually love to find a solid cordless waxer and just use MF bonnets that I can toss in the wash. I`ve been eyeing the Ryobi waxer, anyone have one?
That, plus I am young and spry so doing it by hand doesn`t bother me.

You know something else is, I hardly use QD so if this gets used more no harm no foul I suppose.

[valleyguy1]

I use FK425 to dampen my MF towel when I`m removing FK1000P. I used to use a QD spritzed on the car after applying Klasse SG and it dried, as recommended in their instructions. Never seemed to affect longevity or looks.

I know people espouse the "apply super thin" when applying waxes/coatings, however, I can`t accept that, I can`t see where applying a somewhat thicker coat won`t help. It`s finding that sweet spot, however, `cause there is a point where it is on too thick.

Just my 2 cents...

[Dan]

I know people espouse the "apply super thin" when applying waxes/coatings, however, I can`t accept that, I can`t see where applying a somewhat thicker coat won`t help. It`s finding that sweet spot, however, `cause there is a point where it is on too thick.

Just my 2 cents...

If it was paint, yes applying more would get your more product on the surface of the car. The reality is you are applying something that bonds a microscopic layer to the paint, and the rest is waste as you remove it with your rag. Two thin coats is always better than one thick coat.

[valleyguy1]

If it was paint, yes applying more would get your more product on the surface of the car. The reality is you are applying something that bonds a microscopic layer to the paint, and the rest is waste as you remove it with your rag. Two thin coats is always better than one thick coat.

I agree with you on multiple coats, but too thin a coat risks not applying enough, or missing spots. Seems cheap insurance.

[Accumulator]

Since I`m probably Mr. Thin Application:

Eh, if someone wants to apply more product than I do that`s their business. I`ve never had any issues from doing thin applications, but I have had numerous problems from applying too much, hence my being so opinionated about it.

If not for some of the downsides being genuinely big PIAs, I doubt I`d even have an opinion on the subject at all, well...other than the general "why waste stuff?" aspect of it and that`s not my business either.