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mobiledynamics
10-31-2016, 06:29 PM
Anyone still using part A or B in your detailing regimine.

Past couple years, it`s been IronX followed by Nanoskin or clay, depending on the situation.
Was doing garage cleanup and found a 1/2 jug full or A and B. Prob. will use this up on the next one.

Bill D
10-31-2016, 07:07 PM
If I were detailing from scratch I`d always use the ABC system. It`s good prep for great detailing results

mobiledynamics
11-01-2016, 08:45 AM
Not that I`ve done the empirical analysis on Part B vs. Iron X, but would anyone who has say B vs. X is more effective ?

Accumulator
11-01-2016, 12:47 PM
I`d still use it if I were doing a from-scratch detail on a new-to-me vehicle. Well, one that wasn`t awful enough to call for FK1119 instead of "A". Gee, wonder if I`ll *ever* use mine up :o

"B" is pretty mild, but I`ve never compared it to IronX.

Kean
11-01-2016, 03:37 PM
Gee, wonder if I`ll *ever* use mine up :o .....same here. I bought my ABC kit a few years ago and still have most of it left. Given that I`m only using it on my own vehicles, I have wondered the same thing.

This stuff doesn`t have a shelf life, does it?

Bill D
11-01-2016, 05:17 PM
I`m wondering that as well

mobiledynamics
11-01-2016, 05:47 PM
OT, but I used to be ~that~ guy that would buy the gallon or 4/5L jugs as it was cheaper per pricepoint....
Now, I just buy what I think I will need for the next 24 months. Everything has a shelf life I suppose.
Whether it goes straight up bad, not as effective, etc ----

Remember back when Menzerna was the craze. Hell, I was importing this stuff from JGV back when it wasn`t even available stateside..
Solvents in products dry up, etc, etc.

Kean
11-01-2016, 05:52 PM
OT, but I used to be ~that~ guy that would buy the gallon or 4/5L jugs as it was cheaper per pricepoint....
Now, I just buy what I think I will need for the next 24 months. Everything has a shelf life I suppose.
Whether it goes straight up bad, not as effective, etc ----

Remember back when Menzerna was the craze. Hell, I was importing this stuff from JGV back when it wasn`t even available stateside..
Solvents in products dry up, etc, etc.

I don`t believe the ABC system was or is offered in sizes less than a gallon.

mobiledynamics
11-01-2016, 05:54 PM
Back on topic, would you say A cleans trim back down into it`s base --- without needing to do a whole round or apc/scrubbing.

Planning to do some trim redye/rejuv with (auto solutions), followed by Gtechniq Trim Coat

JBM
11-01-2016, 06:03 PM
Ron K mentioned a couple times that the decon sold by valugard neutralizes the acid inside the pores whereas iron removers wont. Its even worse if all you do is clay simply sheering off the iron.

Kean
11-01-2016, 06:12 PM
Back on topic, would you say A cleans trim back down into it`s base --- without needing to do a whole round or apc/scrubbing.

Planning to do some trim redye/rejuv with (auto solutions), followed by Gtechniq Trim Coat

I guess that would depend exactly what is on the trim. In my limited experience, there simply wasn`t anything resilient enough to cause an issue on the cars I have done myself. All of the surfaces looked and felt void of any product when I was done.


EDIT: Here`s one of the ABC threads that come to mind with remarks from Ron:

http://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing-product-discussion/171345-valugard-neutralization-procedure-video.html

Bill D
11-01-2016, 06:53 PM
ABC only comes in gallons. That`s why I have so much left

Accumulator
11-02-2016, 11:58 AM
Some sorta-random thoughts follow:

I`d be a little careful using "A" on trim just because it`s so alkaline. New(ish) trim should be fine, but I`m not gonna "A" the trim on my `85 Jag. (Hey, I did use FK1119 on the entirety of my `93 Audi, so I`m not too paranoid about such stuff ;) )

I`d be a little careful using "A" on bare aluminum trim or on such stuff with any compromises to its coating/finish. I`m fairly certain it`d be OK, and ABC is designed to be truly idiot-proof (hence it`s borderline too-weak nature), but I`d still be careful about stuff where any damage is basically forever and "alkaline products on aluminum" qualifies IMO. E.g., I will *NOT* use "A" on the A8`s aluminum trim.

I wouldn`t compare "A" with Iron Removal products as that`s not what it`s designed to do (they make "B" for that).

Alkaline "acid neutralizers" like "A" and FK1119 are made to remove other sorts of contamination while neutralizing any acidic stuff that`s on or in the (pores/microfissures of) paint.

Seems that some people want to use Iron Removers to do more than remove Ferrous Contamination. I expect that Iron Removers are made to specifically remove Ferrous Contamination. Maybe some of the newer ones are designed to also clean away other contamination, but I haven`t used any of those.

lloydrm
01-05-2017, 12:19 PM
Another happy AB user (I didn`t use C)
My first experience with this product was on my sisters` new Toyota SUV. I offered to put a layer or two of FK-1000. My guess was the paint wasn`t in great shape, and I was right. There where some incredibly rough sections mainly around the back wheels.
My sis was: "but its a brand new car, what contaminants are you talking about!, its so shiny". After A,B and regular wash she already noticed some difference. After one layer of FK-1000 she was very impressed. I hope I get to apply a second layer of FK-1000 before I go back home.
Very good product, great service, highly recommended.

Accumulator
01-05-2017, 12:26 PM
lloydrm- Glad the AB worked out so well for you (and IMO you didn`t miss anything by skipping the C). Nice that your sister could appreciate the difference...and especially nice *of you* to do that work for her.

Get that second coat of FK1000P on there and she`ll be set for a good long time, and it won`t be unprotected with just the one it has already.

Always gratified to hear when the stuff I fanboy about works well for somebody.

Did you have to do much/any mechanical agitation or did the A & B work fine without it?