Engine Clean-up - retaining original look.

[Midshipexpress]

Hi all,
Looking to clean up the engine bay of my 24 year old Toyota. The car has very low miles, so generally the condition of the bay is quite good, but I`m looking to clean up the engine bay and retain the factory look. Does anyone have suggestions? I`d like to avoid polishing because I don`t want to lose the original feel.
Would appreciate any advice!
Thanks :)


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[Meticulous]

APC, various brushes and steam to clean. For a dressing find a water base dressing that is dilutable so you can adjust the sheen to your liking. For the painted parts I like to use a cleaner wax or AIO to clean up and give a little shine.

[tom p.]

I`ve used HD Total and a pressure washer on numerous engine bays. `Blot dry or used compressed air. `The Total will leave a very subtle shine.

[Accumulator]

Regulars here know that I`m a real fanatic about engine compartments (among other things), and I`ve accomplished this kind of clean up many times, usually on very used vehicles that`d never had such areas cleaned before (e.g., the `93 Audi was so filthy that it looked like the underhood surfaces were all spraypainted black when I started).


`


Besides APCs, i sometimes find a steamer helpful, but not as often as I`d expected.`` Let the APC dwell for a good long time and agitate it with a brush (preferably one with natural bristles, they seem to rinse clean of nasty grease-crud better than synthetic ones).


`


I do a lot of cleaning with solvents- no rinsing and they really cut through greasy stuff.` ValuGard`s New Car Prep is great and it`s *VERY* safe.` Keep the solvents off decals though.


`


For the "white corrosion" on zinc/etc. plated surfaces I like Wurth`s Rost Off.` There are other products that work well too, but whatever I use I work the surface with something like a brass brush or a ScotchBrite pad, or ValuGard`s Bug Pad.


`


I`clean black plastics and`rubber surfaces with Griot`s Rubber Prep (freakin` miracle product) and usually treat/maintain them with ValuGard`s FastFinish (if I don`t bother sealing them with Ultima`s sealant first).` I sometimes treat prone-to-oxidation rubber bits with Wurth`s Rubber Care but otherwise I pretty much avoid dressings altogether.


`


Rinseless wash products (I`m currently using Garry Dean`s Infinite Use Detail Juice) are always handy for areas that aren`t too filthy.


`


Painted metal is just like the rest of the car- polish then LSP. For tough-to-access areas I like Garry Dean`s Beyond Infinity Sealant.


`


Matte/Satin-finished black metal bits- of all things, I find that Blackfire`s gloss enhancing polish works incredibly well!` Even if the parts in question have a little surface rust.` Their sealant isn`t bad over top of the polish (which leaves some stuff behind).` If such surfaces are in *really* bad shape (but you`re not gonna refinish them), try AutoGlym Bumper Care...yeah, their stuff for black plastic trim!` Sounds weird but it really works well (e.g., I used it on the`rusted, nasty hood springs of my Tahoe, and years later they still look OK with minimal upkeep).


`


I mentioned the natural-bristle brushes earlier, and I use a lot of them.` Trick for this application is to get ones that stay a little firm when wet (but keep those off painted surfaces lest they mar). And I use swabs.` A *LOT* of swabs.` I probably go through over a dozen even when just doing a quick maintenance wash, so you can guess how many I use for a big cleanup!


`


MidShipExpress- Your Toyota sounds like just the sort of underhood (and undercarriage too!) project that I go nuts over!` I understand compeletely the look you`re after, so if there are any specific aspects of the job that have you stumped,`post back`and we`ll see if I can help any.

[Midshipexpress]

Thanks to all - especially to Accumulator!

It`s unlikely that you`re close by, or else I`d have you to a engine and undercarriage detail for me!



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[David Fermani]

Great suggestions from Accumulator. (as usual)

[Lonnie]

Two products I will tell you to avoid:


OTC Simple Green, even diluted.There has` been SOOO much discussion on the milky-white residue it causes on aluminum, called bloom (it`s really an oxidation) that it is NOT worth using or risking on modern engines which have aluminum parts on them of some sort. I know they (Simple Green) makes` an aluminum-safe heavy-duty APC but for its price (available at Home Depot for about $16.00 US), I would go with Meg`s Detailer Line D101 APC instead. (personal preference)


The other is Gunk`s Engine Brite. It OK for an OTC product, but for really dirty engines, it lacks the punch to remove heavy oily build-up.


Also, it requires a slightly warmed-up engine. I never like working on "warm/hot" engines, except to change oil, and even then I let them cool off to avoid being burned.


`


I must concur with Accumulator about using Q-tips (cotton swabs) for detailing. I go`through hundreds`of them. Yes, it is extremely time consuming to use them and reach all those seams, corners, cracks, and creavases`on a car, BUT it does make for one great-looking vehicle that separates the`good detailer (the truly obsessive-compulsive detailer or OCD Autopian)`from the average do-it-yourselfer detailer who thinks` "why bother, who cares; no one will see it". Believe me, its part of "Wow- factor" that people notice. Mechanics` have commented on how clean my engine compartment is for a daily driver. I think you can do the same thing with your Toyota.


`


One more thing: avoid using the pressure washer or even garden hoses connected to a`faucet`to rinse the engine compartment. If you want to rinse it with water, try using a bug/pesticide sprayer filled` with distilled water to do so. A good gallon size sprayer is about $30 US from any local hardware store or greenhouse nursery. The ever-present Wal-Mart sells them. It`s a poor-man`s version of a pressure washer that you can control the pressure and spray pattern much easier than with a small motor or electric powered electric pressure washer.` Just be careful`with the metal wand where you point it and moving it in and out`of the engine (like electrical boxes or ECU control boxes) The distilled water is about $1 US a gallon at most grocery stores. You can also use it empty to act as a poor-man`s air compressor to blow out water or debris (but the air pressure`wouldn`t last very long, maybe two or three short burst)

`

[Accumulator]

Lonnie- Good point about the OTC Simple Green.` I don`t hate on the stuff the way many do, but I do keep it away from my vehicles.


`


I haven`t used the Gunk Engine Brite for ages, but I still remember how it smells (no, I don`t think it`s awful, I just remember it).` Last Engine Cleaners I used were from TOL/Hi-Temp and Griot`s and between the two I`d go with the Hi-Temp (much cheaper).` Gee, been a long time since I used an Engine Cleaner too, I did *NOT* use that on vehicles that were in the "Major Underhood Cleanup Project" category and I got by just fine.


`


Note that cotton and foam swabs come in zillions of different configurations, and the long-stick versions are very handy (but those long sticks seem awfully fragile).


`


IMO keeping the out-of-sight areas clean is part of proper maintenance; I spot developing issues before they become serious (it`s been ages since a mechanic told *me* about any needs; I tell *them*).` And I genuinely believe that anybody I want working on my vehicles is gonna be the kind of person who treats a spotless-everywhere vehicle just a little bit better than the average filthy car.


`


On the underhood water topic, I usually do my watering with the foamgun switched to the "rinse" position".` Just regular (but softened) tap water.` Sometimes I use my DI water through a regular spray nozzle, but yeah...gotta avoid certain areas and if in doubt just keep it dry.` I do like your idea of using a sprayer with distilled water...maybe I`ll get one and fill it with my DI water some time.


`


David Fermani-` Thanks, [INSERT "...mother of invention" quip about my knowledge in this area].` I`ve discovered *SO* many "!leave you stranded!" issues before they became serious that I just can`t imagine letting such stuff go.


`


MidShipExpress- Heh heh, that`d be one project I might actually take on (note that I`m not a pro and only do my vehicles and, occasionally, one old showcar`for a disabled pal).

[Midshipexpress]

MidShipExpress- Heh heh, that`d be one project I might actually take on (note that I`m not a pro and only do my vehicles and, occasionally, one old showcar for a disabled pal).


You might change your mind after seeing the cramped quarters of a turbocharged MR2!





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[Lonnie]

Midshipespress:


Are you implying that your 24 year-old Toyota is a 1990 turbocharged MR2?? I know some were 1600cc supercharged in the early years and when they changed the body style they made a 2.0 liter.


`


I had a 1985 MR2, no sunroof or rear spoiler. I bought it after going through 2 turbos on an 1984 Mustang SVO (what fun but poor build-quality). The MR2 was (and still is) a poor-man`s "Ferrari". I sold it when I got laid-off from my first job. It`s one of those cars every car enthusiast wished they would of kept. It did show up in 2000 in the city I lived in (I checked the VIN numbers; they matched an old state license plate registration paperwork I found amongst my records), but it was in bad shape, and an unfortunate (providential?) bicycle accident prevented me from buying it back. It was light-years ahead of the SVO; not as fast, but SOOOO much more fun to drive and build-quality was... well, Toyota; need I say more? I did have a head O-ring problem, but I was MORE than willing to pay for that. It was rock-solid other wise and the 5-speed manual transmission was an absolute joy to shift; even my girlfriend (later my wife)` would drive it. Enjoy yours!!

[Accumulator]

Those are cool little cars!` I like both generations.


`


But yeah, I can imagine it`s a bit snug in there...

[Midshipexpress]

Midshipespress:
Are you implying that your 24 year-old Toyota is a 1990 turbocharged MR2?? I know some were 1600cc supercharged in the early years and when they changed the body style they made a 2.0 liter.
Hi Lonnie-
I am! My MR2 has the turbocharged 2000cc motor. It`s a 1991 model year, but was built in 1990.
After owning a few MR2s of various trims, I found a great original owner car that has less than 34,000 kms (under 22,000 miles). :)

Glad to hear you`ve enjoyed an MR2 also. You could always find another!


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[Lonnie]

Midshipexpress:


NO, I do not foresee another MR2 ("Mister Two" as my wife called it) in the immediate future. It`s just the economics of my personal situation.


`


On a related detailing note, I did buy a Car Care Kit from the Toyota dealership parts department. I still have it. I used the car wash and liquid wax/glaze on the my red and black MR2. The wax reminded me of TR3 Resin Glaze that is still sold today.` I switched over to Liquid Glass when it first came out. It really looked "glassy" and really rejuvenated the red paint after it began fading from sitting outside 24/7 during my ownership .

[Midshipexpress]

Midshipexpress:
NO, I do not foresee another MR2 ("Mister Two" as my wife called it) in the immediate future. It`s just the economics of my personal situation.

On a related detailing note, I did buy a Car Care Kit from the Toyota dealership parts department. I still have it. I used the car wash and liquid wax/glaze on the my red and black MR2. The wax reminded me of TR3 Resin Glaze that is still sold today. I switched over to Liquid Glass when it first came out. It really looked "glassy" and really rejuvenated the red paint after it began fading from sitting outside 24/7 during my ownership .


Well that`s good to know!

The non-metallic Toyota paints of the day, red, black, white, etc. we`re single stage and prone to fading and oxidation - especially the red. See my other thread about trying to keep my black deep and dark.


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