Proper technics to polishing/ paint correction.

[Detailing Donovan]

Hi I`ve been detailing for quite sometime now, and now I want to go in the direction of paint correction. What steps do pros take to get that glass finish? I`ve herd that after each stage you should wipe the vehicle done with 50/50 of alcohol and water. Is that correct? Are there other steps to take to get superb results?

[bunkeroo26]

Check out the post about abrasive isolation.

Also, Ipa wipedown is not always necessary, it depends

on what products you use. Some, like Optimum products

Work with each other with no steps in between.

[Detailing Donovan]

Thanks a lot. That really gave me more insight.

[Jean-Claude]

Check out the post about abrasive isolation.

Also, Ipa wipedown is not always necessary, it depends

on what products you use. Some, like Optimum products

Work with each other with no steps in between.



I can`t think of a good reason not to treat an area with either an alcohol mixture or eraser. That`s regardless of what the company selling a product says.

[bunkeroo26]

I never really cared for Ipa, unless some other factor required it.

Clay always was enough prep, and I have never had problems.

That being said, every situation is different.


I would defer to Jeans knowledge if you want to get perfect glad.

Now, I am not sure if he is saying to use Ipa or eraser everytime, or

if he is suggesting that that is the method for a higher quality shine.


I personally have never had the problem of left over product, or residue

as long as I stayed with the optimum line. For me, they work great together.

Your results may vary. Some people may put too much, some not enough.


For me, Ipa is only used for really stubborn spots, as I don`t like the way it

messes with the paint on my Subaru. Your cars paint is another reason that

your work may vary from others. No doubt that using IPA should be in your

box of tricks. The question is: do you need to use it 100 percent of the time.


For me, going back over the entire vehicle again adds much labor.


I personally go :

ONR,

Clay with ONR as lube strength,

Compound or GPS,

Then Finish applied if I used compound.


Also, if looking to get glass, just find some products that you like,

use them often and refine your personal method. I have seen some

amazingly different results from same products just because someone

understood how to work them better.


For me, abrasive isolation helped much, add it gave me some things

to focus on during polishing.

[bunkeroo26]

Check out some of our professionals here.

Look at Jean Claude, Scott Wax, David fermani threads as they

explain their processes. There is much to learn from these people.

Again, Jc wouldn`t lead you astray, so if he suggests Ipa after every step,

it had my ears perked up. One must be constantly learning and adapting.


You may live the HD Care line of products. I have been wanting to try them

out personally. Your entire method and mindset could change based on

one new product or method. I don`t know if there is anyone who hasn`t adapted

significantly in the past ten years due to new technology.

[pwaug]

My situation was similar to yours in that I had been detailing for years and finally got into machine polishing nearly 3 years ago now.`` I read and wathced videos`for months before I made any decisions and I`ve not experienced any of the problems reported by others just starting out by following the advice of the great wealth of knowledge available here.


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I chose the Griots Garage polisher because of it`s power and lifetime warranty--`equipped with a 5" backing plate so I could use 5.5" pads (even thought`the Griots`has the power to rotate 6.5"`pads) as`the slightly smaller pads are easier to manuver on curved panels.`` Also, have a 3.5" backing plate for 4" pads for the small bits on`the cars.`


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Decided on Buff &Shine pads (which are the same as HD pads and Uber pads) because their choices of pads are much simpler than others, they have a recessed Velcro that makes centering the pads easier and IMO is an added measure of safety when polishing around protruding objects.` In addition I don`t think I`ve read one post anywhere of people having problems with the Buff & Shine pads velcro coming unglued or pads shreading etc.


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While I tried a couple of different polishes I ended up using HD products as they are so user (and beginner in my case) friendly.`` Little to no dusting, long working times and easy to remove as they don`t have any heavy oils.`` No need to do an IPA wipe after polishing if your LSP is HD Poxy and I`ve found that just an ONR wipe down is plenty with other LSPs as long as they are not Coatings.


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Two areas where it seems most beginners fail is trying to do an entire car with one or two pads (even when cleaning on the fly) and using too much polish/compound--especially with HD products which require very little product per section.