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View Full Version : Grasshopper guts, how to remove?



FCrites
07-03-2013, 09:29 AM
Car ran off track about 70mpg into waist high grass with tons of grasshoppers. knocked off what I could but had no chance to really wash car for a couple of days. Washed this morning and there are still gut"shadows" on hood and front bumper. Car is 2012 mustang Kona metallic blue, and has base wax collinite 476 on. The wash was basic meg`s gold class. Did not use my CG citrix wash as I was hoping to not have to do the whole wash, ipa wipdown and re-wax.

So I am here asking those in the know, what must I do to complete the removal off hood, fenders, and plastic bumper?



Thanks

DaGonz
07-03-2013, 10:24 AM
Clay it, polish and rewax. The longer it sits, the more it will etch.

Ron Ketcham
07-03-2013, 10:43 AM
Car ran off track about 70mpg into waist high grass with tons of grasshoppers. knocked off what I could but had no chance to really wash car for a couple of days. Washed this morning and there are still gut"shadows" on hood and front bumper. Car is 2012 mustang Kona metallic blue, and has base wax collinite 476 on. The wash was basic meg`s gold class. Did not use my CG citrix wash as I was hoping to not have to do the whole wash, ipa wipdown and re-wax.

So I am here asking those in the know, what must I do to complete the removal off hood, fenders, and plastic bumper?



ThanksDead insects, as they decompose, put off amino acids and a couple others. That is what is creating the staining. These residue is now down in the paint, got through you protective wax.

The acids will continue to "be active" each time the paint is subjected to water and heat.

Suggest you do a very good and long wash, allowing the soaps to break down the wax and enter the paint films porosity to try and neutralize the acids.

Claying will not normally solve a condition such as this as it does nothing to neutralize the acids present in the paint film.

FCrites
07-03-2013, 01:46 PM
Ok I stopped by my body shop, he tried a test spot with 3m rubbing compound by hand with MF. I came off in a half second. So I am considering that.

Is there anything less to try ?IPA? Vineger?



and then what to use to neutralize? then polish and wax. Just do not know that will neutralize?

Ron Ketcham
07-03-2013, 05:26 PM
Try this, apply undiluted IPA to the spots, keep it wet with it for a few minutes, wipe off and see. The IPA may draw the acids and solids out, if so, then wash as normal and re-apply your selected polish or wax or sealant to those areas.

FCrites
07-03-2013, 05:34 PM
Ok I will try that first am and report back, Thanks Ron!

FCrites
07-04-2013, 04:48 PM
So IPA did not work, looks like it`s off to the body shop. May need a new skin for the nose of my `stang. The compound hardly touched it.



Thanks for all the advise!

PhatHoodDetail
07-07-2013, 02:50 AM
try valugard decontamination system 1st. Might save you alot of money

imported_WhyteWizard
07-07-2013, 08:34 AM
Not really on this specific topic but a general rule for me is to put soap on the cars first BEFORE rinsing. I do that a couple of ways - if I`ve taken a car to the quarter car wash I go straight to high pressure soap or maybe the pre- soak - if I`m using a hose I have an Ortho Dial-n-Spray on the end of my hose with car wash in it. With the Dial-n-spray, I can change the dilution ratio depending on what I think a particular car needs.



The point of soaping first is, it gives the soap a chance to soak into the dirt, bugs, and other contaminants and break them apart. Rinsing first fills the dirt, etc. with water so the soap can`t get in as easily. Hitting with soap first makes the car wash go a lot better.



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