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peacemaker
06-24-2013, 10:27 AM
I`ll preface this post by saying I don`t own a home and need to use the local coin op to do (ONR bucket) washes.



I always start off by treating the tires, wheels, and bugs before feeding the machine. So I have everything dwelling, tires have been scrubbed, and ready to rinse off the car... coin op machine is apparently not taking quarters. Tried fiddling w/ it for a minute, then decided I had to move my car asap to the next bay to start washing. By the time I moved all my crap over and got started, it sat for a solid 7 or so minutes on the wheels. The Sonax left stains on my gloss white wheels. The wheel doesn`t feel like there is any substance on top of the paint, it just looks stained.



I`m not sure what the proper way to address this. Does anyone have any ideas?

Nth Degree
06-24-2013, 11:16 AM
Unfortunate situation. Sounds like the Sonax was allowed to dry on the surface. There is a reason why the instructions specify to not allow the product to dry; it becomes more concentrated as the carrier chemicals evaporate. I think people have become used to the instructions on products being more of a "suggestion" rather than a warning. While the majority of the time it is safe, there are some circumstances where the warning should be heeded to the letter.



Hopefully the damage is only on the surface. Try a little polish in an inconspicuous area. If that doesn`t work you might want to seek the help of a professional.

jlb85
06-24-2013, 11:28 AM
Re-hit with sonax, see if it "reactivates" the stain. Do one wheel at a time. Make sure the wheel is cold before applying Sonax. Since you are driving to the coin op you know your wheels are gonna be hot.



If that does not work, use some clay. If that doesn`t work then you can try some polish by hand.



White wheels: an even worse idea than a jet black car ;)

togwt
06-24-2013, 01:22 PM
Try this at your own risk - this type of surface damage usually entails refinishing. However the following product and procedure has been found in some cases, to improve the appearance of acid / alkali stained wheel surfaces; be cognizant that in some instances you may only achieve a < 50% improvement and in some more.



For wheels that have milky or hazy staining caused by these types of chemicals try the following: Use caution with chrome wheel finishes as the plating is very thin and using harsh abrasives could remove it.



1. Wash the wheels (See Note 1) thoroughly using clean water and soap or detergent and then flood rinse the wheel surface with clean flowing water.

2. Dry the wheels completely.

3. Using medium pressure, apply 3M™ Chrome and Metal Polish (# 39527) suitable for chrome, stainless steel, brass, bronze or copper (See Note 2) with a 3M™ delicate duty scuff pad (White) its equivalent to 4000 grit finishing paper or clean terry cloth towel. Applying the polish may diminish the staining.

4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean micro fibre towel.

5. Repeat application of the Polish until satisfied with the results. If continued applications fail to improve the appearance further discontinue use (See Note 3).



This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications, restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.

Often with this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of cleaning will restore the finish.





Notes



1. DO NOT attempt to clean hot wheels surfaces; allow cooling down time, otherwise you may cause structural damage to the wheels and cause the rotors and/or callipers to warp, making them inoperative



2. THE 3M polish required for this procedure contains an extremely aggressive cleaner. The wheel surfaces must be clean prior to application to avoid scratches. This cleaner will reduce the coating thickness and if used incorrectly may remove the surface finish entirely.



3. Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine results. ONLY apply with sufficient pressure and time to remove enough staining that you are satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a < 50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. In all instances; only apply until the results are satisfactory.

RaskyR1
06-24-2013, 02:22 PM
Notes



[I]1. DO NOT [COLOR="#000000"]attempt to clean hot wheels surfaces; allow cooling down time, otherwise you may cause structural damage to the wheels and cause the rotors and/or callipers to warp, making them inoperative





^^^that.



I would assume the wheels were warm or hot if you have to drive to the local wash, which is a big no, no.

gmblack3
06-24-2013, 05:00 PM
I have applied wolfs decon gel to "warm" wheels and allowed it to dry without any issues.

Scottwax
06-24-2013, 05:30 PM
If you clean the wheels regularly, you should never need a wheel cleaner. Whatever you wash with should more than suffice.

peacemaker
06-25-2013, 07:13 AM
Thank you for the suggestions, appreciate that. I may hang out with a friend today or tomorrow who has a hose at his home. I am going to first try cleaning them w/ soap & water, rinse, then I`m going to hit it w/ Sonax again to see if it "reactivates" the chemical. If that doesn`t work, I`m going to have to polish out the stains w/ a microfiber.



As for being washed regularly, it does get washed regularly. Not sure if you own a german car, but the (Bosch) brake pads spit out a ton of dust. Even today, three days after my wash, I can see brake dust sitting (not caked) in small piles on the wheel surface. I`m tempted to wipe them off all the time, but I don`t want to scratch them.

Scottwax
06-25-2013, 04:58 PM
Clean the wheels weekly and you shouldn`t have to use a wheel cleaner. But I`m sure that`s tough to do for you in the winter. And I`d probably switch to ceramic pads when you need new ones, really cuts down on the dust.