Here`s what I have to detail with - what order should I use and is this stuff decent?

[Jon K]

Hey guys - I have a green BMW 525i (1992). The car had been resprayed and it`s probably in need of more significant work but for right now I`d like to massage out the imperfections and bring back the smoothness of the finish even if it does have chips/scratches. I had been detailing a bit previously but took a leave as I worked on the car mechanically. Now I`d like to tinker again with detailing.



Here`s the products I have:



http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2833/9049878437_cdc1f60cf2_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67031861@N08/9049878437/)

Car Detailing Products (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67031861@N08/9049878437/) by Jon Kensy (http://www.flickr.com/people/67031861@N08/), on Flickr



I also just picked up a Griots Garage 6" buffer because I had purchased a PC7424XP for my step-dad but I`ll be moving shortly so I wanted to make sure I have one of my own.



I have the S100 wax from years ago and it`s... OK. I never really liked how it comes off so I will be looking for a better wax. My step-dad uses the Pinnacle Souverän wax that we buy him so I can use that a bit but I don`t want to waste his product. I will want to pick up some wax for myself. Again, the car is metallic green which is dark in the shade and quite "bright" almost pearly/metallic in the sun. Here is a photo of the car:



http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3735/8972907095_1a8251c9c3_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67031861@N08/8972907095/)

1680_1050_3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67031861@N08/8972907095/) by Jon Kensy (http://www.flickr.com/people/67031861@N08/), on Flickr



So with the products above can anyone recommend a regimen to get me going again? I picked up the M105/M205 just because my Pinnacle stuff is about 1/4 full in each bottle. So, if its not as good or if it`s better, let me know! I`d really just like a general guide of how to approach a complete "start to finish" process with my specific products. I have orange, white, grey, and blue Lake County CCS pads as well.



Also, can someone recommend some good wax for my particular color? I like the Pinnacle, but I am open to try new stuff. The dodo stuff is intriguing but it almost seems to be more of a novelty considering how many versions they have and what not. What`s good without costing hundreds lol.



Thanks guys!

[Accumulator]

Jon K- Nice car. I briefly had an e36 M3 in that color.



For the correction, of what you have I`d use the M105/M205 twins. Hope you have a lot of pads for the M105 ;)



Are those CCS pads the "dimpled" ones? Sorry, I can`t remember....



I`d want to use Meguiar`s MF Cutting Disks for the M105.



I`d strip the M205`s oils before applying the wax. Note that doing so can be quite a challenge.



For the wax, much as I can appreciate Souverän on garage-queens (I use it on my `85 Jag), it just doesn`t protect well enough, or last long enough, for use on anything that`s even remotely used as a normal vehicle. Heh heh, it`s my wife`s fave on her (silver) Audi, but I got tired of redoing it at every wash and I want more protection against, well....everything.



I`d use Collinite wax, either their 476S paste or their 845 Insulator Wax liquid. Great protection and durability. And IMO if the car doesn`t look OK, it won`t be because you used Collinite on it. The 845 is also great on black plastic exterior trim. I`ve used the 476S for that with good results, but uhm..."don`t try this at home, kids!" might apply because if you do it wrong you might get the old "white wax staining" that can be a bear to remove.



Old story that regulars here have heard before- I prepped a pal`s old Jag (metallic blue, medium-dark, sorta a "blue version of your green") for the concours season. At a show, some "expert" asked what wax was on it, but my pal couldn`t remember so he just said how his detailing-nut pal used what he thought was the best choice. The "expert" (note all those scare-quotes ;) ) then said "well, it must be Dodo Juice. Nothing else looks quite like that. Yes...that`s what`s on it all right!" The wax I used was Collinite 476S :chuckle: Don`t get caught up in the "right wax for a given color"; it`s almost all a matter of how it`s prepped, with *very* minor diffs between the various waxes and sealants. But I`d sorta lean towards the 476S over the 845 as I think the former would look a bit "richer" and "deeper".

[Jon K]

Thanks Accumulator - Collinite... that`s something I didn`t expect! I`ve been looking at waxes in the $40 - $90 range for like 6 - 8 oz. I will have to check that out. What do you mean about removing oil from 205? Yes, the CCS pads are the dimpled ones.

[David Fermani]

Ditch all the polishing compounds you have except M105/205.



The thing I don`t care for with the CCS pads is that those dimples hold spent polish/dust/abraded paint and can cause unnecessary paint marring. Like Accumulator mentioned, you should try Micro Fiber buffing pads for sure.

[Accumulator]

Jon K- As David said, the dimples can retain dried polish and cut-off clear, which allows same to build up into clumps that can *really* cause issues. Simply a poor design for the application (at least with products like M105/M205 which never break down).



The M205 is incredibly rich in Meguiar`s Trade Secret Oils ("TSO"). These can a) conceal marring which will "come back" after the oils dissipate (which can take a few days), b) cause appearance issues that I term "pseudo-holograms"; it looks like the paint has holograms but it`s just the oils looking awful, and c) interfere with the bonding (and perhaps the durability, though I`ve never experienced that) of subsequently applied LSPs.



I`ve found those TSO to be so tenacious that even IPA, applied multiple times, couldn`t strip them. I use a product from TOL called PrepWash (link: Silicone & Wax Remover (http://www.topoftheline.com/silicone-wax-remover.html) ) but there are other similar products that`ll also work well.



On the Collinite, I understand completely that it sounds like some low-cost/high-durability stuff made for taxis or somesuch, but with the proper prep beforehand it can look great. I have zero problem spending $ for good stuff, and/but if the Collinite cost many times its reasonable price I`d still buy/recommend it. IMO many of the pricey products out there aren`t worth a tiny fraction of their cost and they rely on the "exclusivity factor" for sales rather than actual, tangible results; gotta be careful, the ad-copy can sure be seductive!