Question about Iron X decomp and Nanoskiin prep and wash procedure

[kajunman]

I bought a new Ford Focus SE in Tinted Ruby Red metallic. The car is about a week old. I washed it and used some Werkstatt Prime Acrylic on the Hood area, Windshield post and header above the windshield, frontal area and wheels. I am going to add a 3M bra after I decontaminate the car for rail dust using Iron X. I used some Bug Blocker from Diamonite on the frontal areas to give some protection until I add the 3M bra. Because of my arthritis I am going to split my work into 2 Days this weekend. On Saturday I am going to wash the car, apply Iron X, rinse it off, use the Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge and Smooth on it and then wash the car again. On Sunday I plan to use Car pro Eraser on it then apply Opti Seal. My Question is that after the Nanoskin Autoscrub on Saturday I was going to do a regular wash should I do a Dawn wash instead?

Sorry I failed to mention in the orignal post that I will also be using Optimum GPS on the car before I use the Eraser on it on Sunday I do apologize for this error.



Thanks in advance,

Kajunman

[togwt]

I would remove the bonded surface contaminants (Nanoskin) before you decontaminate (IonX) the paint system



FWIW: have you considered using the ValuGuard system, especially recommended on a new(er) vehicle TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141242-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html





These Detailing Wiki informational resources contain everything you’ll ever want to know about automotive detailing and are an invaluable addition to your detailing knowledge base.



TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136815-togwt%AE-detailing-articles-index-hyperlinks.html

[Envious Eric]

spray car with ironX

wash car

quick dry car

clay car

IPA wipe car

use a real polish instead of GPS - more cut and you will be stripping the fillers and protection off anyway in prep for clear film

IPA car

apply film on the car

wax whole car



reason you want to apply film and then wax is because as the film is applied, the potential for "squeegee marks" to appear (scratches around edges of film) is high. you may need to go back and polish those out, and the fact you need a bare surface to apply the film, so waxing would be a waste of time.

[kajunman]

I would remove the bonded surface contaminants (Nanoskin) before you decontaminate (IonX) the paint system



FWIW: have you considered using the ValuGuard system, especially recommended on a new(er) vehicle TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141242-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/136815-togwt%AE-detailing-articles-index-hyperlinks.html



I looked at the ValuGard System (probably the best system out there) but I steered away from it for fear of me screwing up using this system. Other factors include that the car is brand new and the paint appears to be in great shape. Therefore I was going to to use Iron X because it appeared to be easier to use. Granted it only decotaminates rail dust and does not decotaminate pretty much everything as does the ValuGard System. I have watched the Valugard demo-seems to be easy---but.

[togwt]

Application Directions

Training video - Videos | Valugard (http://www.valugard.net/index.php/data-sheets/videos/?l=english&id=GgEfQZ5MqJM)

[Ron Ketcham]

Also on the ValuGard.net site, under the "Engineers" section are Ford Technical Service Bulletins #99-12-10 and #04-9-6. Same is in the dealers service manual for the vehicle.

Same products, just private labeled for Ford MotorCraft.