Is there a way to "restore" your microfiber towels?

[RenuAuto]

I`ve noticed lately that my drying towels are totally hydrophobic. Until they finally get a lot of water in them, they totally aren`t absorbing anything. I am not sure if I accidentally used regular wash detergent instead of microfiber detergent or maybe dried them on a hot cycle once on accident? Is there a way to try and restore these towels? I read something about soaking them in ammonia once?



Thanks!

[Shane.belzers]

Ive noticed the same thing. On this same note, What is proper microfiber care? Wash temp, dry temp... What detergents are same and not safe?

[togwt]

If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and release the fibres. Drain the water before removing the towel(s) otherwise residues will be re-deposited (melting point Polymer / Polyester 490. °F (255. °C).





Towel Cleaning / Care



A Microfiber towel is made from polyester nylon (a scrubbing fibre) and /polyamide (an absorbing fibre), these microscopic loops, which form a network of tiny hooks, scrubbing away dirt and grime while trapping it within the weave, the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids



Be cognizant that although most of us consider Microfiber to be almost indestructible it needs proper care to ensure it keeps working the way it should and to maintain its durability. The nature of this yarn is that it is an absorbent; the reason polyester appears to absorb liquids is the many thousands of micro fibres that collectively encapsulate liquids and chemicals (solvents, wax, polymers, and etc).

The detergent used to clean them must be strong enough to remove the chemicals without harming the fibres. The methods used for towel drying are equally important, high heat plus the agitation of an automatic dryer can round the edges of the microscopic hooks, rendering them ineffective



Before using Washing Machine



To ensure that the washing machine has no residual detergent or fabric softener; rise the machine drum with a 1:3 solution of washing liquid (with no bleach) / distilled white vinegar, clean about every 2-3 months



Car care products can get left behind in the drum; so run a cleaning cycle before and another once you’ve finished washing your micro fibre towels, using hot water, some liquid detergent and distilled white vinegar.



(HE) Washing Machine Maintenance



Wash towels on hottest setting (sanitary cycle, max time, extra rinse) Modern high-efficiency washer’s use less water and seal more tightly than older, less-efficient machines, these washers are more prone to residue build-up. To address this issue, Whirlpool pioneered the development of Affresh tablets, a simple, powerful and universal solution. All brands of HE washing machines have the potential for mould and mildew stains if not properly cleaned on a regular basis.



To ensure maximum performance, appliance manufacturers recommend a monthly maintenance and cleaning routine. Many cleaning products currently on the market with ingredients such as bleach adequately maintain the washer, but results may vary and are not always consistent.



Used every 4-8 weeks (dependent upon machine usage) it will prevents odour-causing residues from accumulating, although heavily soiled washers may require repeated treatments to remove traces of odour and residue. In this case, Whirlpool recommends running three successive washer cleaning cycles with an Affresh tablet in each.



Wash Towels after use



Always wash towels as soon as possible after use, the longer they sit the more the contaminants will set. The chemicals used in car care products will negatively affect the fibres structural integrity and weaken them, shortening their useful life. Residual chemicals will cause streaking, whereas dried chemicals will cause scratches.



Do not use bleach or high alkaline cleaning products as they will shorten the life of your micro fibre. Read the label on the detergent bottle and use half of what they recommend and use hot water (120.oF)



Do not wash different types of towels together. And always wash each colour separately; never wash white towels with colours.



Lint



Nothing removes lint out of the towel (new or used) better than a few spin dryer cycles. Washing also makes your new towels softer and more absorbent. A good first wash formula is 1 cup of distilled white vinegar with a half cup of detergent. This will help release lint, break towels in, and keep them fresh. It is also useful to soak new towels in a cup of ammonia and several gallons of warm water. This will dissolve any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency. Another good wash formula is 1 cup of ammonia with a half cup of detergent.



Washer Loading



Do not overload the machine, use just enough for a good medium sized load, and remember that micro fibre towels hole ~ seven times its weight of water, so by using too many they will not be cleaned effectively. A large washing machine can usually accommodate 35 – 40 medium sized towels



Washing / Care Directions



Heat acts as a catalyst promoting quicker reactions between chemicals and the soil thereby minimizing dwell time. Warm or hot water helps dissolve grease and oil in soil, agitation or hand rubbing helps pull the soil free. This concentrated aqueous formula is a special blend of surfactants, emulsifiers, chelating agents and water softeners.



Pre-Soak Towels



Micro fibre towels can "load-up" with residues reducing their effectiveness. Don`t let polish residues dry in the fibres as dried hardened product can cause scratches and product chemicals can negatively affect the fibres



Once you have finished detailing with the towel, allow it to soak in a bucket with approx 0.5 oz per gallon water and a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner P21S®® Total Auto Wash. Or use Optimum Power Cleanâ„¢ diluted 2:1 (or stronger) with distilled water) or a micro fibre detergent (Micro-Restore).



This will make it easier to clean and prolong the life of the towel as any chemicals that could potentially harm the fibres are removed sooner, keep in mind that excessive use of powerful degreasers may eventually damage the fabric. When you are ready to clean them, rinse well, machine-wash and leave to air-dry



• Wash / Rinse after using and before you use a different product (i.e. don’t use to remove polish and then apply wax) to avoid cross contamination

• Always wash towels separately from other fabrics using hot water, the primary consideration is detergent residue so always use a detergent that is clean-rinsing

• Wash drying towels separate from wax/polish towels

• Washing your towels on a regular basis without allowing them get too soiled, they will last much longer

• Some detergents contain enzymes, which don`t work well in cold water.

• Woolite® is intended for delicate fabrics and fine washables such as lingerie and cashmere sweaters, so it won’t remove polish or car care products

• Soak towels in Sodium carbonate (also known as washing soda or soda crystals) or Optimum Power Clean™ as it effectively removes oil and grease

• As a pre-spotter: dilute 1 part concentrates with 3 parts hot water, apply to stain and launder as usual.

• Do not overload washer or dryer; it causes your towels’ fibres to weaken and lint

• Waxes and polymer sealants are not water soluble; they dry and adhere to the towels fibres. Cold water will simply allow them to remain in a solid state and not completely wash off.

• Hot water, however, allows them to soften and loosen from the threads and allows the detergent to act as it should and lift the contaminants from the fabric. Use medium heat, 104 .oF (40.o C) and add 1-2 ounces to a standard size (8 gallon) load, for larger loads or heavily soiled laundry

• Use a liquid detergent (or a speciality product like Micro-Restore high efficiency (HE) washer safe) without softener, bleach, whiteners.

• If possible buy the versions that are perfume and additive free as all these do is chemically coat the fabric and reduce its efficiency.

• Using half the washing detergents manufacturers suggested amount is usually sufficient

• During the rinse cycle add 1-tsb per towel white distilled vinegar (acetic acid that once diluted with water, the acid content is approximately 3-4% of the total solutions) this will help dissolve detergent and hard water minerals. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH=2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH=12, the opposite of acidic on the pH scale).



When you wash your towels (or anything for that matter) there are small amounts of detergent left behind, when your add Vinegar it balances the pH of the solution and helps removes the excess detergent from the wash.



• Do not use fabric softeners (includes both liquid and dryer sheet type fabric softeners) as they deposit chemicals (silicone, etc) on the fabric and render them ineffective. These chemicals will also transfer to whatever you are cleaning or polishing with the towel.

• Clean the lint screen before and after every wash session

Over time you may find your micro fibre’s effectiveness decreases, despite following all of the above guidelines, this may be due to wax / polish build-up.



To remedy try one of the following -

1. Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash again, except this time open the lid and let it soak overnight. In the morning, close the lid and let the cycle finish.



2. Wash the microfiber for one full wash cycle normally. Then wash again, but instead of laundry detergent, add 1/2 cup of white vinegar to the load (assuming a medium to full size load). Run the cycle normally



3. If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and release the fibres. Drain the water before removing the towel(s) otherwise residues will be re-deposited (melting point Polymer / Polyester 490. °F (255. °C).



Micro-Restore - because most detergents and laundry soaps have some form of optical fabric brighteners (Z)-Stilbene or fabric softener included in their formulas. Over time bleach breaks down the micro-fibres, and fabric softeners clog the microscopic pours that make microfiber so effective, rendering the microfiber product less effective with each washing.



Micro-Restore is superior for treating, cleaning and preparing microfibers because it is a powerful degreaser strong detergent with the absence of bleach and fabric softeners, it also breaks down heavy wax, oil and grease.



It will extend the life of your microfiber, due to its special blend of chelating agents, surfactants, and builders will more effectively remove the heavy residue (wax, oil, grease, break dust, and other chemicals) that becomes implanted in microfiber products. This product doesn’t contain any harsh chemicals that could be detrimental to HE washing machines



Directions: Add 2 ounces to standard size (8 gallon) loads. For larger loads or heavily soiled laundry, add 3-6 ounces. As a pre-spotter; us a 1:3 distilled water solution.

[Shane.belzers]

So do you guys just use OTC detergents or is there something better suited from one of the car care companies? From reading through that washing on a high heat cycle is good, what about drying them, medium heat or high? Man micro fiber maintenance is a pain :( Washing colors separate etc... We use like 5 colors of micro fiber and already wash 3 separate loads (terry`s(white cotton), Windows, micro fiber) Now im looking at potentially adding 3 more load cycles to that mix... Dang my head just exploded a bit....

[togwt]

Drying



Air dry or use low / medium heat in a tumble dryer, adding two ‘Dryer Ball’ will help plump up the fibres, when they are ‘almost’ dry remove and allow to air dry, shake and then fold them for storage’ Some towels with bound edges are not suitable to be high heat dried, typically those with satin or stitched edges as they tend to shrink, pulling the towelling fabric



Notes:



1. Lint or fibre shedding – a dryer ball (Life Miracle® Dryer Systemâ„¢) seem to help as they fluff up the fibres and lessen the static that is the main cause of Microfibers trapping lint. Lint may also be trapped in the machine’s lint screen and its being transferred o the towel.

2. For problematic wax only towels - try using very cold water to make the solidified wax brittle, then wash with hot again.

3. Mixing Fabrics - Do not wash micro fibre cloths / towels with other non- micro fibre fabrics, as they will pick up lint from other fabrics. Air dry or you can dry micro fibre cloths / towels in any dryer on low heat, remove them before they are still damp (cuts down on static charge) Colours may bleed during first washing

4. Static – to avoid static build-up remove towels from machine while they are still a little damp and air-dry

5. Melting point - of polyester 480 – 570.OF (250-300°C) so hot drying will not harm its fibres

[Accumulator]

There are a few threads where we discussed this to death. No, I`m not saying "oh, go search!", just pointing out that yeah...a) there`s lots of info on the topic already posted, and b) I realize that we`re rehashing this again.



IF regular detergents work OK for you in this application, then cool, keep doing what you`re doing. IF not (as in my case) then try the "MF detergents". For me, they make a huge diff, and I have good, soft water. I find some work better than others (not sure why as I bet they`re all pretty much the same) so I don`t buy based soley on price.



Use a washing machine that really gets things clean. My "hi efficiency" one might be *efficient* but it`s not *effective*. I wash my truly dirty stuff (including detailing towels) in an older agitator-style washer.



As TOGWT noted, use hot water, or even try boiling them. I dry them on "low" or "medium" and I try to *not* keep drying them after they`re dry as I think it causes excessive wear.



Some people find vinegar to be beneficial, others find it *hurts* drying towel performance. I`m neutral, doesn`t seem to do much either way but can help remove excess/residual detergent.



Make sure your washer isn`t harboring residual detergent. Do a few "empty washer loads" with hot water and nothing else except a cup or two of bleach. You might be surprised how that "no detergent" load sudses up!



Make sure your dryer doesn`t have a lot of "dryer sheet residue" in it. I have a dedicated "shop dryer", but if/when I use the household one for this I clean it first.



The last time my WWs weren`t working, I washed them maybe a dozen times in my agitator style washer, with only the first wash using MF detergent and the rest being either vinegar or plain water. Then I washed them again in my HE washer (after making sure it was really clean inside) on the ultra-hot "sanitary" cycle. Did that maybe twice. No, it didn`t make them perform just like new, but at least most of them did soak up water pretty well again. A few simply didn`t get any better and I wrote those off as "dead" (I use them for household stuff).



But IME at some point, drying towels simply seem to become less effective. Maybe it`s just incremental wear, so gradual that we don`t notice it. Or maybe it`s something else. But like most stuff, the drying towels seem to have a limited useful life; at some point the solution is to buy new ones.

[tom p.]

I`ve noticed lately that my drying towels are totally hydrophobic. Until they finally get a lot of water in them, they totally aren`t absorbing anything. I am not sure if I accidentally used regular wash detergent instead of microfiber detergent or maybe dried them on a hot cycle once on accident? Is there a way to try and restore these towels? I read something about soaking them in ammonia once?







I`ve been thru this too. I have found nothing, regardless of how much effort I put out, would make the towels useable again. I`ve learned to dispose of them at that point.



Yes, I`ve tried all the things listed in this thread and then some. IME, once the towels stop absorbing, they`re of no value. I haven`t really even discovered alternate uses for them around the home.



It seemed like this "syndrome" affected a very specific group of my drying towels and did not affect others that were of similar type and age....FWIW. I got rid of that group and haven`t experienced it again for some time, Renu.

[Bert]

I`ve noticed lately that my drying towels are totally hydrophobic. Until they finally get a lot of water in them, they totally aren`t absorbing anything. I am not sure if I accidentally used regular wash detergent instead of microfiber detergent or maybe dried them on a hot cycle once on accident? Is there a way to try and restore these towels? I read something about soaking them in ammonia once?



Thanks!



Sounds like you have some product (wax, sealant, glaze, polish, qd or something else) that is not washing out of your towels. That happened to me also. Water would literally bead on my towel even after washing them. To get around this, I wash them first time using about a cup of Meguiar`s Detailer`s Line Super Degreaser with an ounce or two of Dawn. This concoction is strong enough to remove every product I have used so far. After the wash cycle is over, I can still smell the Super Degreaser in the towel. My worry is that the Super Degreaser may not be completely rinsed out and could mess up whatever product I use next time on the towel so I leave the toweles the the wash mashine and just do a regular load with regular detergent or microfiber wash to get that out. Now my towels aborb just fine.



Speaking of Super Degreaser, it does a great job of cleaning polish/glaze/AIO/sealant/wax out of pads, better than an AIO just make sure you rinse the pads out very well. I often will keep of buck of water with some Super Degreaser in it, about a 1:20 ratio I would guess and as I finish a pad, I toss it in there to soak. At the end of the day I rinse off the pads and get the majority of the polish/glaze/AIO/sealant/wax just by soaking them in the water/Super Degreaser mix. After squeezing most of the rinse water out I spray concentrated Super Degreaser on the pad and work it in to the pad with my thumbs (you may want to wear gloves to do this, Super Degreaser will dry your hands out quite a bit). Any stubborn product that did not want to come out before is gone once I rerinse the pads. Again, make sure you rinse the pads very well. If you do not, the next time you use that pad, the Super Degreaser could compromise the product. To make sure I get the Super Degreaser out, after rinsing the pad a few times, I will toss the pads in the same load as the towels I mentioned above which were washed with Dawn and Super Degreaser. That wash will be used to make sure the Super Degreaser is removed from the towels and my pads.



I have thought about using my pressure washer to rinse the pads out with but I fear the force of the pressure washer may shred the pads. I have some older pads, I my use one of those as a test pad. If it gets destroyed, oh well, gives me an excuse to replace it with a microfiber pad I want to try out.

[Accumulator]

... I wash them... with an ounce or two of Dawn..



I too have had good results using Dawn for the "first of several" washes. But it might be a YMMV thing as others have cautioned about "conditioners" in Dawn (presumably to make it gentle on hands and baby ducks) that can cause issues. Never noticed any problems myself, but did want to mention it.

[togwt]

I too have had good results using Dawn for the "first of several" washes. But it might be a YMMV thing as others have cautioned about "conditioners" in Dawn (presumably to make it gentle on hands and baby ducks) that can cause issues. Never noticed any problems myself, but did want to mention it.



Stubborn dirt – soak overnight in a solution of hot water and P21S® Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean â„¢) Be cognizant that towels do not have a finite life; at some point the only remedy is replacement

[Accumulator]

Stubborn dirt – soak overnight in a solution of hot water and P21S® Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Clean â„¢) Be cognizant that towels do not have a finite life; at some point the only remedy is replacement



Yeah, that PowerClean is good for this :xyxthumbs I pre-spot my MFs with it prior to regular washing. TAW...eh, I`ve never used it for this, though it`d probably be another good, if pricey, choice.



I`ve actually been using the PowerClean for this more than Dawn recently, no particular reason why though :nixweiss Probably use the PowerClean more for pads and MFs than for anything else these days!

[Shane.belzers]

Hmm, Lots of good advice but our washer and dryer go from about 8-9 pm mon-thur and 8-5:30 fri and sat. so i dont have time for lots of wash cycles or boiling even though that seems like good ways of cleaning. Sometimes soaking them overnight seems like it could work good, then they can come in and wash em first thing at 7:30am. This is what i`m looking for.



1.) best regular washing detergent for all my towels, maybe a separate one for MF towels. If i can just use my APC that works if not whats a product... Is MF restore ok for regular washing. For my detergent something liquid without softener, bleach, whiteners?



2.) for soaking them whats good? Power clean or that MF restore?



Then dry low heat and finish with air dry is best huh..



Thanks gunna get on it

[Accumulator]

1.) best regular washing detergent for all my towels, maybe a separate one for MF towels. If i can just use my APC that works if not whats a product... Is MF restore ok for regular washing. For my detergent something liquid without softener, bleach, whiteners?



For cotton towels I use regular detergent. I don`t worry about whether it contains bleach/bleach alternatives/etc. FWIW, I`m currently very happy with the Up & UP (store brand) from Target, works well and is cheap.



MF detergents are fine for cotton, but are very pricey and IMO not necessary if you presoak/pretreat with something like the PowerClean or even Dawn (regular or Power Dissolver).



FWIW, and I know this is heresy that people will :nono: about, I use a little Ultra Downy fabric softener with the final rinse of my cotton towels. No, it doesn`t cause any issues whatsoever, and if I don`t use it they come out stiff. BUT...this is the only fabric softener I`ve used that does not cause issues.




2.) for soaking them whats good? Power clean or that MF restore?



I prefer the PowerClean or some other APC. Or either of the Dawn products mentioned above. But note that Dawn can foam/suds like crazy in the washer and this might be an issue for you since you can`t tie up the washer all day doing endless rinses.




Then dry low heat and finish with air dry is best huh..



Not "air dry" for me; I use "low" or "medium" with MF and "high" with cotton. Funny, but that high temp for cotton seems to make `em come out a little bit fluffier for some reason.

[Shane.belzers]

Thanks, going to buy a case of the Micro restore for sure, then i am going to get some regular detergent for for the cottons, will that also work on my window towels? I have waffle and the blue rags (can remember the name).



If i use my APC to soak how diluted are we talking? What do you dilute the power-clean or your APC at..



Thanks



p.s anyone use the 3D towel kleen??

[Accumulator]

Thanks, going to buy a case of the Micro restore for sure, then i am going to get some regular detergent for for the cottons, will that also work on my window towels? I have waffle and the blue rags (can remember the name)...



I use MF detergents for my WW and other MF "glass towels", regular detergent with cotton that I use on glass. The Ultra Downy does *not* make my cotton towels smudge up the glass.




If i use my APC to soak how diluted are we talking? What do you dilute the power-clean or your APC at..



Better ask somebody else about the presoak dilution. What I do is spray undiluted PowerClean/APC on the nasty spots and let it sit until I have enough to justfiy a full washload.




anyone use the 3D towel kleen??



Haven`t tried it yet. Somebody here was disappointed with it, but that may/may not mean much :nixweiss as nothing pleases everybody.