Question for the old timers - Megs 16

[Junebug]

I`m trying (yes, really) to thin out my detailing cabinent. I have an almost full can of Megs 16. I honestly don`t know what to do with it. I`d like to just use it up, so, that being the case. What is the best way to apply? I like using a PC so will it stain a pad to the point of just using that pad for now on or does it clean up? Stain trim? Would it be considered a cleaner wax and could I use it as such?

I know - read the can stupid, but I figure there`s a wealth of knowledge here that might have more to say than what is on the label.

[Ron Ketcham]

#16 is the original Mequiar`s Mold Release wax, much as the Finish Kare 1000P.

High melt point, work it like you would the FK product.

Apply in a thin coat, let cure for a few minutes, wipe off, then apply 2nd coat, etc.

Grumpy

[Dan]

I think FK1000P is much more forgiving. #16 turns into cement if left on too long or put on too thick. It does stain trim as well but not pads. Not a cleaner wax at all. Best on lighter colors, great on silver and white, amazing on light blues.

[Junebug]

Thanks- I`m thinking tape up trim, LC red pad and melt it on the paint like butter, then repeat.

[Brad B]

Junebug,

You goin` old school on us? As long as your getting down to basics throw away those pesky microfiber towels and buff off that wax with some old t-shirts. ;)

[Ron Ketcham]

Actually both products were designed to be hand applied using a sponge and removed with a terry cloth towel.

First, a "breaking wipe", then flip the towel and finish the removal of the indicators.

They do work a lot better that way.

Grumpy

[Thomas Dekany]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/tdekany/2008/porsche001-1.jpg






I think FK1000P is much more forgiving. #16 turns into cement if left on too long or put on too thick. It does stain trim as well but not pads. Not a cleaner wax at all. Best on lighter colors, great on silver and white, amazing on light blues.

[Thomas Dekany]

I used to apply it with pcxp and a firmer pad. Worked well - oh, and I have 2 cans of #16.



I`d like to sell them. :D




Thanks- I`m thinking tape up trim, LC red pad and melt it on the paint like butter, then repeat.

[Junebug]

Firmer pad? like LC white?

I`m all ears bro, I have to do a quick waxie waxie on my car real soon and I`m itching to use this "old school" wax.

Thanks Brad, but my old T-shirts are too thin and slick, might use some new bath towels!

Actually, we bought some from Bed, Bath & Beyond for our daughter to use at college and I swear they`re soft as a baby`s blanket.

[Accumulator]

I still use M16 on my wife`s A8. Thin thin thin....and then you shouldn`t have any problems as long as you keep it off trim (though it`s not the worst product in the world if you have a little oops as long as you buff it off right away).



Note that I once did the whole A8 with the tiny bit of wax in the bottom rim of an "empty" tin, that was plenty. If a can doesn`t last many years (thinking regular applications on a daily driver) then you`re using way too much; think of it like KSG in this regard.



I really like doing it by machine; it`s "the paste wax that turns liquid". I`ll sometimes do a "pseudo spit-shine" by misting on a *LITTLE* (and I do mean a *very* little) wax-type QD such as Speed Shine and then work the M16 in to the misted surface until it`s *almost* disappeared. Then wipe per usual, foggng the surface with your breath. Gives me an especially nice shine and the most spherical beading I`ve ever achieved, though at a very slight decrease in durability (not enough to worry about).



Just remember to do it thin, and as noted don`t skip any spots lest it be tough to buff off later; I missed a spot on the A8 before Accumulatorette`s last roadtrip and had to really struggle to get it off a few weeks later :o



EDIT: I use GG red waxing pads on PC-type machines and Cyclo white finishing pads with that one (which is my usual choice). I have zero trouble buffing it off with my regular plush MFs, never needed to use cotton/etc. the way some people recommend.

[Ron Ketcham]

Keep in mind that both the #16 and the #1000P have been around for over 25+ years.

Back when they were formulated, was for the FRP industry, just over time become products that found use on vehicles, not tooling molds.

That far back, there were no dual action polishers, no hundreds of types of foam pads, no micro-fiber towels, etc.

These products were for "production shops" preparing tooling molds for the production of gelcoat/fiberglas products in order to obtain a shiney, smooth part that easily released from the tooling mold.

Part of what made them work was the "high fracture point" (hot temperatures) of the products as the exotherm of curing gel/glas gets above 200F.

The "applying" several "thin" coats was very important in obtaining a wax film to allow the release.

I could go on and on about the actual directions, etc, but the instructions were clearly printed on the original mold release versions of these products.

Today, except in low labor rate, third world countries, not much of them are used today in production shops.

New polymer liquid release agents have been developed, much easier to apply, less "sticking" of the part, etc, plus the developement of "internal release agents" for some materials.

Grumpy

[Accumulator]

Keep in mind that both the #16 and the #1000P have been around for over 25+ years....





There seems to be some debate about when M16 first came out... but I clearly remember my Mother saying how much easier it was than Simoniz and how she started using it on a car that she`d sold by `62. Growing up in the `60s, I clearly remember the scents of M07 and M16...knew the latter before I discovered Crayons, thought that *they* "smelled like car wax", rather than thinking that the wax smells like Crayons.




The "applying" several "thin" coats was very important in obtaining a wax film to allow the release...



And yet some people say "you can`t layer wax" :chuckle:

[Ron Ketcham]

These two products were developed and meant to be "layered", that was the way they were formulated.

Like you, I don`t recall exactly when they came on the market.

I do recall that Floyd told me he made the #1000P as a response to the Mequiar`s #16 product.

I joined FK, if I recall in late 86, and the #1000P was our number 1 volume product.

Not sure how long it was in the line before I got there.

They may have been around for over 40 years or more.

Grumpy

[Accumulator]

..I do recall that Floyd told me he made the #1000P as a response to the Mequiar`s #16 product..may have been around for over 40 years or more.

Grumpy



Oh man, to think I coulda been using that stuff since forever :o

[Ron Ketcham]

Oh man, to think I coulda been using that stuff since forever :o

That`s because we are "old farts", George.

Grumpy