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View Full Version : How can I remove these deep specks?



peacemaker
10-23-2012, 09:16 AM
Hey guys,



This has been on my car since I got it a fee months ago. Doesn`t come out with a claybar.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/23/vyry6epy.jpg



I am researching a polish to remove the swirls and this from the paint. Trying to find a one step if possible.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

SeaJays
10-23-2012, 09:35 AM
what type of car?



I`m assuming this is the specks on the black (or is that a window)? The car looks dirty so it`s hard to tell exactly what your dealing with. What clay bar did you use? Maybe need something more aggressive to remove them. If it`s etching you will have to polish, perhaps compound or even wet sand depending upon how deep the etching is. Always try the least aggressive first and progress from there.



But for a 1 step polish HD Polish, M205, or even the Megs MF system with D300. If your looking for an All-In-One product then HD Speed and Optimum Poli-seal are my go to AIOs.

peacemaker
10-23-2012, 11:37 AM
The black is the window. I`m referring to the specks on the white paint. I just washed the car on Sunday, the water spots you see on the window are from condensation in the mornings (using the rear defroster + wiper). Also the fact that its a hatchback, the rear cakes up with dirt fast.



FYI it hasn`t rained since I washed it. Has only been driven about 30 miles after the wash. I used an OTC Meguiars claybar that came in a kit.



I don`t think HD speed will have enough cut to take care of this and the rest of the car, so I`m leaning towards HD Uno. I feel like this is a good compound/polish/finish product. I have a product similar to HD Speed -- Poorboy`s World Polish w/ Sealant.

Ron Ketcham
10-23-2012, 11:40 AM
Brand of vehicle, age of vehicle, purchased new or used, basic area of the country where you live, enviorment of the area where you work, (where does the vehicle set each day during the week), etc.

I ask as these may help in determining what is the composistion of the "specks".

The use of a magnifier may also provide you clues to as what is the composistion of them.

Grumpy

peacemaker
10-23-2012, 01:03 PM
2011 VW GTI - Candy White. I got it used in August. Previous owner had it garage kept and was anal about keeping it clean and detailing it. I live in NJ. The car is DD and sits outside everyday.

Nth Degree
10-23-2012, 02:15 PM
I like Menzerna Power Finish. It will get you the cutting power you need and is capable of finishing nicely. I use it as a one step often, even on black.

peacemaker
10-23-2012, 02:27 PM
Which pad would you recommend to take these spots out as well as swirls?

SeaJays
10-23-2012, 03:39 PM
So you have poorboy`s polish & sealant...how were you applying it? By hand? DA? Rotary? What pads have you used?



I`ve used HD Speed, Opt Poly-seal, and PB polish & sealant and have gotten decent correction with them on various paint systems. It`s all in what type of pad you use, machine, and technique.



You really haven`t given us much to help you out here. I can give you a list of pads, products, etc. But if your trying to do this by hand you may have a hard time.



Also, have you tried something like Iron-x or tarminator? Those spots look like they could be rail dust or tar. A clay bar doesn`t always remove everything. And since the car is white you can see it all.

peacemaker
10-23-2012, 04:02 PM
So you have poorboy`s polish & sealant...how were you applying it? By hand? DA? Rotary? What pads have you used?



I`ve used HD Speed, Opt Poly-seal, and PB polish & sealant and have gotten decent correction with them on various paint systems. It`s all in what type of pad you use, machine, and technique.



You really haven`t given us much to help you out here. I can give you a list of pads, products, etc. But if your trying to do this by hand you may have a hard time.



Also, have you tried something like Iron-x or tarminator? Those spots look like they could be rail dust or tar. A clay bar doesn`t always remove everything. And since the car is white you can see it all.



I apologize for the lack of information. I was applying the PB PwS by hand w/ a standard wax applicator pad. At the time, I didn`t know this wasn`t the proper pad for the job. So I basically sealed the car when I did that.



Going forward, I will be borrowing my friends GG6 to do future details. He has pads, but I have been free loading off him enough, and I want to buy new pads (will probably give them to him or leave them at his house).



I thought about using Iron-X, but my thing is that I live in an apartment and I`m trying to keep # of supplies and costs down. I was thinking of finishing (after a compound) with PwS. But I`m not sure what kind of correction abilities it has to be honest.

SeaJays
10-23-2012, 06:24 PM
If you pick up a couple polishing pads and med-heavy cutting pads you should be good. I use the lake country Ccs pads. If you pick up some orange and white from that brand you will be good.



3d has the buff and shine pads but have only used the bigger ones and I think the green is the polishing pad and orange is the med-heavy cut.



Your friends griots probably has the 6" backing plate so go with the 6" pads.



You will notice a huge difference in results when using a da over hand application.

Ron Ketcham
10-23-2012, 07:56 PM
OK, what part of NJ, close to the port area or other industrial production plants, etc.

Just keeping it "clean" does not mean that it has not been subjected to Industrial Fallout, and when you get close to the "port" area, the refineries, that may be a whole new set of potential source of enviormental contaminates, etc.

Just "washing" or "claying" a vehicle`s finish does not address the true enviormental-airborne contaminates that may attack the finish of your vehicle.

Clay only shears off the very tops of such as ferrous metal particles, clay may, on a short term, may also reduce, the appeared to the touch, "swelling" of the paint film, etc.

Not picking on you, no reason to, spent a lot of time in the ports of NJ, working with the vehicle manufacturers who bring in vehicles to that area, so very farmilar with the "air quality" of the area in that port area.

Diagnois of any condition requires the asking of questions, which may point to the solving or resolution of the conditions that one is experiencing.

Grumpy

peacemaker
10-24-2012, 07:52 AM
If you pick up a couple polishing pads and med-heavy cutting pads you should be good. I use the lake country Ccs pads. If you pick up some orange and white from that brand you will be good.



3d has the buff and shine pads but have only used the bigger ones and I think the green is the polishing pad and orange is the med-heavy cut.



Your friends griots probably has the 6" backing plate so go with the 6" pads.



You will notice a huge difference in results when using a da over hand application.

You would be correct. He has the 6" backing plate. Although I`ve seen a lot of 5.5" and 6.5" pads. I will look more for 6".




OK, what part of NJ, close to the port area or other industrial production plants, etc.

Just keeping it "clean" does not mean that it has not been subjected to Industrial Fallout, and when you get close to the "port" area, the refineries, that may be a whole new set of potential source of enviormental contaminates, etc.

Just "washing" or "claying" a vehicle`s finish does not address the true enviormental-airborne contaminates that may attack the finish of your vehicle.

Clay only shears off the very tops of such as ferrous metal particles, clay may, on a short term, may also reduce, the appeared to the touch, "swelling" of the paint film, etc.

Not picking on you, no reason to, spent a lot of time in the ports of NJ, working with the vehicle manufacturers who bring in vehicles to that area, so very farmilar with the "air quality" of the area in that port area.

Diagnois of any condition requires the asking of questions, which may point to the solving or resolution of the conditions that one is experiencing.

Grumpy

Honestly, I don`t know where the car was kept before i owned it. The spots were there when I got it. It was garage kept for the most part. Hatchbacks naturally hold a vortex of air behind the car. It results in a lot of dust/dirt/grime on the hatch. I don`t currently live near a port of any railroads. Previous owner did not live in an industrial area either.









EDIT: As I research more, I believe these specks are rail/brake dust that have oxidized and have begun to rust. It looks similar to what is shown in this wiki (http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141060-removing-rust-spots-rust-blooms.html#post1499788).



I`m now going to research Iron Cut (Aquartz) & Deironizer (Wolfs)