Headlight Restoration without a "kit"?

[imported_truzoom]

I`ll be visiting my parents this weekend and last time I saw my dad`s 4Runner, the headlight lenses were completely hazed over and yellow. I`m surprised he can still drive at night for how diffused the light comes out. I think the design of the lens is flawed since the lens curves up and over the top of the bulb, so all that heat is going to cause the top to oxidize at an accelerated rate....



Sample Pic:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachments/sale-t4r-items/45706d1307415187-blacked-out-oem-headlights-sale-03-05-crop-headlight.jpg





Anyway, I have a pretty decent arsenal of products that I can approach this with, but I want to use a machine polisher because there`s enough surface area to warrant the use of one, and the oxidation is severe. I`m just not sure which product to use, and I have a feeling that someone here has done this before with a paint polish and had good results.



Here are my options:



PC7336, Flex PE14

LC CCS Pads, Propel Pads (remember these? I still use them)



Megs UC

Megs ColorX

Megs PlastX

Megs SwirlX 2.0

Megs 80

Megs 83



CG 721

CG 778



DG 101



Optimum HC





PlastX would seem to be the best one, but the label doesn`t indicate if it can be used with a machine polisher. The oxidation is thick enough that I`d rather not considering doing the job by hand.



Any suggestions?

[Dan]

Megs 80/83 actually works pretty well on headlights.

[4AudiQ]

From Auto Geek Forum:

My process is basically already well known:



Wetsand-400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 (Ed.: I added 3000)

Buff-System one polish or equivalent with a high speed drill with small wool pad attachment

But here is the "new" part......

UV Sealer-Helmsman Spar Urethane(Indoor/Outdoor)Clear Gloss mixed with Mineral Spirits(1part urethane to 1 part mineral spirits).



After you buff the lights out with your polisher, you wipe down the headlight with denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (to eliminate any compound residue).

Mix the urethane and mineral spirits in a plastic disposable cup. Remember the dilution ration- 1 part to 1 part.

Then, take a blue `scott` shop rag and fold it up into a 1 inch x 1 inch square(Ed.: I used a 2" wide foam brush). Then dip the rag into the mixture and wipe it on the headlight. Don’t use too much or it might run, but start at the top of the light and work side to side. It took me a few times to get my method down, so if you mess up with application, wipe it off with mineral spirits and start over.

This UV sealant dries in 10-20 mins usually and is far superior to any average detail product(paint sealant, wax etc.......)

Its like a clear cote, but you don’t spray it, not as messy.

Longevity-The original "creator" of this method told me that he did a headlight restoration with this method about 2 years ago for a customer, and he said it still looks good.

[pmnewton]

The headlights oxidize more on the top because the horizontal surfaces get more direct sunlight. The UV is the primary cause of the discoloration. I think you`ll find that the DACP applied by machine works quite well.

[imported_Quenga]

I`ve done plenty of touch ups with Megs UC, with just a rag, terry towel, applicator pad, microfiber towel, old polishing pads, etc. It`ll all work, but go back to yellowing if you don`t reapply a protectant. I got fed up fixing lights over and over again (it`s 1/100,000 that will keep wax/sealant on their lights). So I upgraded to using Solaray spray. Happy so far.

[Alfisti]

truzoom, I regularly restore headlights with just a polisher and compound/polish. Sanding is rarely needed.



I use orange pad and compound to remove haze and then finish with a mild polish on polish pad to clarify finish. Then apply your favourite LSP regularly.



Which compound/polish combo you use doesn`t really matter as they all seem to work well. I think of polycarbonate headlights like paint. What you use on paint to correct and restore gloss I`d use on headlights. And they don`t have the thickness limitation of paint.

[Scottwax]

2000 Meguiars unigrit paper-you may need 1200-1500 if really bad but usually 2000 grit is enough

#105 or OHC with a rotary and orange cutting pad or DA and MF cutting pad

#205 or OHP with a polishing pad

[imported_truzoom]

I gave it a shot this weekend. Used some M105 w/ orange LC CCS pads on my Flex rotary. I kept the speed at around 600-800rpm since I didn`t want to melt the plastic.



It turned out OK. I stand corrected on where the hazing is--- it`s actually on the front of the lens, not on the top, and it was extremely cloudy and rough. The above combo was sufficient for making the lens clear again for safety reasons, but I think 1500-2000-2500-3000-M105 would have done a better job. Dad was happy with just getting it clear again, so I can`t complain..

[ray6]

The UV protective products you list are all temporary. Some will last longer than others. The good stuff is only available wholesale in large quantities, but Sylvania sells a kit that includes a urethane UV protectant coat that`s better than nothing. The other stuff is just sandpaper and cleaner, but the coating is about the best you`ll find in a DIY kit. Should last at least a year.



As an alternative, find a pro and have them restore. A good one will include at least a 2 year warranty.



Hope this helps.

ray6