PDA

View Full Version : 845 vs. FK1000P vs. ? for DD?



Pages : [1] 2

DatacomGuy
04-17-2012, 09:57 PM
Both vehicles are dark (Dark blue, and dark gray), and both are daily drivers (in Atlanta) and both are parked outside.



I need a LSP for my situation. Will follow M205/EZ-Creme Glaze. Needs to be ultra durable, yet as glossy as possible. I`ve been eyeing 845 and FK1000P. Perhaps Mother`s 100% carnauba..



Thoughts? And/or recommendations for any others that may apply?

usdm
04-18-2012, 12:05 AM
Both vehicles are dark (Dark blue, and dark gray), and both are daily drivers (in Atlanta) and both are parked outside.



I need a LSP for my situation. Will follow M205/EZ-Creme Glaze. Needs to be ultra durable, yet as glossy as possible. I`ve been eyeing 845 and FK1000P. Perhaps Mother`s 100% carnauba..



Thoughts? And/or recommendations for any others that may apply?



These are just my personal observations:



Mothers is the glossiest out of the lot, but it also has the shortest lifespan. It also does not release dirt the quickest with inital rinsing. It does, however also offer the best hiding ability when dealing with light scratches that are bound to occur eventually when washing or dry the car. The best on reds and dark colors, but does mute metallics a bit more. than the other 2. Worst protection against enviromental and industrial fallouts) Most available at OTC stores and online



845 is the middleground in terms of gloss, durability, and releaseing of initial dirt during the rinse. It hides ok, but not as good as Mothers. Slightly mutes metallics, but leaves a nice looking finish that has some pop. Decent protection against enviromental fallout- better protection against industrial fallout. Primarily available online, but some select OTC stores may carry it



1000p had better anti-static properties and rinses very clean before even doing a wash, but is very sterile looking; whatever the paint looks like after you polish and glaxe is pretty much what it will look like after 1000p. It also happened to be the slickest feeling of the 3, which probably explains why it releases loose dirt and dust so well. Slightly longer durablilty than 845, but not by much. Hiding of light scratches is the worst of the 3, however it can improve with multiple applications (can layered same day, but 2-3 applications is pretty much the limit for the most part). Provides the best protection against both enviromental and industrial fallout.

Available online only.

DM101
04-18-2012, 06:30 AM
Everyone knows I would go with HD POXY. HD UNO and HD polish then the Poxy. HD High Definition Care Care: Detailing Made Simple (http://www.hdcarcare.com/) Would look awesome!!!

DatacomGuy
04-18-2012, 06:52 AM
These are just my personal observations:



Mothers is the glossiest out of the lot, but it also has the shortest lifespan. It also does not release dirt the quickest with inital rinsing. It does, however also offer the best hiding ability when dealing with light scratches that are bound to occur eventually when washing or dry the car. The best on reds and dark colors, but does mute metallics a bit more. than the other 2. Worst protection against enviromental and industrial fallouts) Most available at OTC stores and online



845 is the middleground in terms of gloss, durability, and releaseing of initial dirt during the rinse. It hides ok, but not as good as Mothers. Slightly mutes metallics, but leaves a nice looking finish that has some pop. Decent protection against enviromental fallout- better protection against industrial fallout. Primarily available online, but some select OTC stores may carry it



1000p had better anti-static properties and rinses very clean before even doing a wash, but is very sterile looking; whatever the paint looks like after you polish and glaxe is pretty much what it will look like after 1000p. It also happened to be the slickest feeling of the 3, which probably explains why it releases loose dirt and dust so well. Slightly longer durablilty than 845, but not by much. Hiding of light scratches is the worst of the 3, however it can improve with multiple applications (can layered same day, but 2-3 applications is pretty much the limit for the most part). Provides the best protection against both enviromental and industrial fallout.

Available online only.



Awesome reply... Thank you very much. Going by this, i`m leaning towards 845.

Dan
04-18-2012, 09:18 AM
845 is probably the easiest to use. I`d be so happy if there was a liquid version of FK1000P, but there isn`t. IMO, its a bit of a bear to work with, but the results are worth it. I wouldn`t go so far as to say FK1000P looks sterile either, glassy, yes, but not sterile. If you want sterile, KSG is the king.

Accumulator
04-18-2012, 11:31 AM
DatacomGuy- The looks are so subjective that I won`t really get into that, other than to say that if somebody`s vehicle doesn`t look swell it won`t be because they chose one of those over the others.



I`ve used 845 and FK1000P for years. I curently use 845 on one of my vehicles my dark blue-gray beater-Audi) and FK1000P on a few others. *GENERALLY* speaking, I prefer FK1000P. I use the 845 on the Audi because a) I want simple-as-can-be for that car and b) the 845 is more forgiving of its flaws than FK1000P would be. But I use FK1000P on my pewter beater-Tahoe and simply love it on that despite that vehicle`s paint flaws.



I find that 845`s durability can be oddly variable. On some vehicles it lasts a long, long time, but on others it doesn`t. And ONR seems to kill it in a downright astounding way. On my Audi it lasts pretty long, but it`s nothing astounding and I have to redo it more often than I`d like.



FK1000P, with two coats applied a week or more apart, lasts for a very long time on everything. Simply amazing in most cases. Even when 845 is proving durable, FK1000P outlasts it by many months IME. It also protects better against bird bombs, which can sometimes etch through 845. On the Tahoe, I do one coat, wait a few weeks until the next wash and then do another, and then I just wash it for months on end.



Eh, there are lots of variables that could explain the durability diff (including that perhaps FK1000P is more shampoo-resistant).

imported_RZJZA80
04-18-2012, 11:38 AM
Accum, how would you compare application and removal of FK100P as compared to the Collinite? DO you have to mist the FK100P for easier removal or does it come off like butter?

Bill D
04-18-2012, 11:41 AM
I just added 845 to a brand new, dark grey Dodge Grand Caravan. The gloss is great and I`m looking forward to see how well dirt washes off. I will monitor the durability.

Accumulator
04-18-2012, 12:47 PM
Accum, how would you compare application and removal of FK100P as compared to the Collinite? DO you have to mist the FK100P for easier removal or does it come off like butter?



I`m the wrong guy to ask. For some reason I hardly *EVER* find my LSPs hard to use. No idea why but that`s how it works.



OK, 845 is easier, but not all *that* much easier IMO, not enough to really matter. You can have to work a bit with it too, not that "like butter"-easy the way some products are.



But no, I don`t have to mist FK1000P with anything...BUT I do *always* fog the surface with my breath when I buff off LSPs. I fog the surface and then buff. If I`m machine-buffing with MF bonnets I`ll let the MF bonnet get most of the LSP residue off, but then I still fog the panel and give it a final buff by hand.



Heh heh, gee...wonder if that "fogging with my breath" is why I always find LSPs so easy to buff off :idea

Greg Nichols
04-18-2012, 03:36 PM
845 is probably the easiest to use. I`d be so happy if there was a liquid version of FK1000P, but there isn`t. IMO, its a bit of a bear to work with, but the results are worth it. I wouldn`t go so far as to say FK1000P looks sterile either, glassy, yes, but not sterile. If you want sterile, KSG is the king.





They do make a 1000L, I`ve never tried it. Look on the Finish Kare website.



Cheers,

GREG

usdm
04-18-2012, 03:37 PM
845 is probably the easiest to use. I`d be so happy if there was a liquid version of FK1000P, but there isn`t. IMO, its a bit of a bear to work with, but the results are worth it. I wouldn`t go so far as to say FK1000P looks sterile either, glassy, yes, but not sterile. If you want sterile, KSG is the king.



Funny, I found that 1000p was a bit easier to use than 845 initially. But once I got the hang of 845, there really was not any difference in the ease of use between the two.

Cleaning Fool
04-18-2012, 10:30 PM
To my eyes, 1000p makes the paint look glossy. I`d go 1000p

Kean
04-19-2012, 09:15 AM
I have to agree with Dan on the application of FK1000P. It is not the easiest to apply and remove (compared to some of my other favorite LSP`s) for two reasons IMO/IME:



1) It can dry quite hard. Thin coats are key with many products but especially with this one. Any excess can have the tendency of drying rock hard and can be a bit of a pain to remove. In those scenarios I used FK425 to lightly mist the affected area and it came off without further issue.



2) Partly because of the above point but mainly because the product dries white, I find that I need to be especially careful around certain trim (i.e. textured), crevices, between body panels, emblems, decals, etc. Basically, anywhere the product can get "stuck" I will end up with white residue that takes me additional time and effort to remove.



Personally, ease of use is a key characteristic in the LSP`s that I use. ....ones that can be used on most/all surfaces without a problem and apply/remove easily. Having said that, I still recommend and use (in some cases) FK1000P simply because there are other traits in this product that (I believe) make it worth considering (i.e. resilience, durability, ability to shed contamination, etc.).



I also agree with Accumulator about the 2nd coat. In my own limited experience I did find increased durability with panels I applied 2 coats vs. 1. I also believe FK1000P is still one of the best products I have ever used when it comes to releasing contamination. I would say it is on par if not (dare I say it) better than Opti-Coat. ....at least as I have experienced on our daily driver. I know there are a lot of variables involved but I simply didn`t find the level of bonded contamination on the finish when I was using FK1000P as I do using Opti-Coat. .....but again, there is nothing conclusive to be taken from this limited experience/comparison I have had with both products on this particular application.

KneeDragr
04-19-2012, 09:31 AM
Both vehicles are dark (Dark blue, and dark gray), and both are daily drivers (in Atlanta) and both are parked outside.



I need a LSP for my situation. Will follow M205/EZ-Creme Glaze. Needs to be ultra durable, yet as glossy as possible. I`ve been eyeing 845 and FK1000P. Perhaps Mother`s 100% carnauba..



Thoughts? And/or recommendations for any others that may apply?



My thoughts are



1.) Dont use the EZ-Creme Glaze, apply the product you select directly to the paint for a better bond and longer protection.



2.) Use FK1000p. I wasnt impressed with the durability of 845. It started beading poorly at 8 weeks. FK1000p w/ 2 coats lasts me 4-6 months.

Dan
04-19-2012, 09:39 AM
Funny, I found that 1000p was a bit easier to use than 845 initially. But once I got the hang of 845, there really was not any difference in the ease of use between the two.



Do you apply 1000p dry? I find I either need to load up the pad or moisten it, otherwise it just does not go on as easily. Then if you overload the pad, you are in for a treat when it comes to removing it. 845 glides on and wipes off very easily for me. 1000P just acts like the hard paste wax it really is.