Is my leather coated or uncoated? Did drop test but confused.

[Frankieplus]

So I put a drop of water on my seat and it just sat there.



But when I wiped it, the smear of water dissapeared as fast as alcohol would dissapear.. Water doesn`t evaporate that quick!



So what`s going on? Coated or Uncoated?



New Car.



-Frankie

[tom p.]

Frank, welcome aboard! What kind of car are you working on? How old is it?

[Roger Koh]

So I put a drop of water on my seat and it just sat there.



But when I wiped it, the smear of water dissapeared as fast as alcohol would dissapear.. Water doesn`t evaporate that quick!



So what`s going on? Coated or Uncoated?



New Car.



-Frankie





Show us some pictures, please!



We will then be able to help explain this phenomenon you experience.





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Frankieplus]

[quote name=`Roger Koh`]Show us some pictures, please!



We will then be able to help explain this phenomenon you experience.





Hey Roger, thanks for that - I worked it out.



It`s partly Aniline and partly semi-aniline..



Headrests and armrests are semi, etc..

[Roger Koh]

It sounds like you have a pretty absorbent leathers; it is of a higher quality that retains its original transpiration characteristic that translate to more seating comfort.



Make sure you check the pH value of any liquid before applying onto the leather.



Leather-safe range is using any products having a pH range of 3 to 5 for its care.



Still be interested to see such strange combination of leather finishes, if you would please…





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Ron Ketcham]

So I put a drop of water on my seat and it just sat there.



But when I wiped it, the smear of water dissapeared as fast as alcohol would dissapear.. Water doesn`t evaporate that quick!



So what`s going on? Coated or Uncoated?



New Car.



-Frankie

Frankie, your post is an example of why I just put up a new thread regarding "provide more information", as the simple information regarding the vehicle, it`s year, all you can provide will most likely provide more than a quick answer from someone.

Grumpy

[Frankieplus]

It sounds like you have a pretty absorbent leathers; it is of a higher quality that retains its original transpiration characteristic that translate to more seating comfort.



Make sure you check the pH value of any liquid before applying onto the leather.



Leather-safe range is using any products having a pH range of 3 to 5 for its care.



Still be interested to see such strange combination of leather finishes, if you would please…





Well it`s basically a Nissan Murano 2011-2012 model..



The part of the seat where your bum goes and back is semi-aniline, the rest is aniline.



The sides of the headrest are aniline and where yoru head sits is semi-aniline and also the arnrest on the doors is semi-aniline.



Basically, I put a drop of water in all the sections of the leather and wiped it and it seemed to evaporate/absorb after about a minute. Then I

did a fingernail scratch test to determine the semi-aniline and normal aniline sections..



You can`t tell from the images but the sections that I`m saying are semi-aniline seem to be a very slight lighter shade and feels a little

smoother to touch.. Very very mildly smoother/slipperier.



Can you reccomend me a good product to use for cleaning and conditioning? Or should I just leave them alone and just use a damp

cloth for cleaning? What`s the ebst way to keep these seats in the same condition for a few years..



http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~frankieplus/IMG_1812.JPG



http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~frankieplus/IMG_1813.JPG



http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~frankieplus/IMG_1814.JPG



http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~frankieplus/IMG_1815.JPG



http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~frankieplus/IMG_1816.JPG



http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~frankieplus/IMG_1817.JPG

[Roger Koh]

So I put a drop of water on my seat and it just sat there.



But when I wiped it, the smear of water dissapeared as fast as alcohol would dissapear.. Water doesn`t evaporate that quick!



So what`s going on? Coated or Uncoated?



New Car.



-Frankie







Thanks to the encouragement from Ron Ketcham; otherwise we will be giving misleading answers based on imagination!



Basic information with pictures is quite necessary to have accurate answers to questions.



A picture is worth a thousand words, I prefer to deal with pictures.





The answer to your question is “Coated�



It is a coated leather using opaque Pigment for coloring and sealed with a soft urethane coating that also determine its final luster.



Uncoated leather is refer to as "naked" leathers found mostly in ladies handbags like Louis Vuitton and Coach, also known as vachetta leathers.



In auto interior the other finishes is known as "aniline" leathers, like those found in the Ford King Ranch; only difference is that they are colored with transparent dyestuff, yet are still coated with an urethane topcoat that seals the color for better wear and from bleeding.



A term for leather has to apply across the board ranges from auto leathers, furniture, garment, bags and other accessories to be meaningful and understood.



So leather cleaning is all the same, need to classify only the finish type, be it an auto interior or a leather jacket or a briefcase.





Your water droplet testing is “not the industry standard�.



That’s why you get the weird result.



The standard testing is to allow the water droplet to darken the leather through the finishes to determine its absorbency level; primarily to determine if the leather structure is pigmented, micro-pigmented / semi-aniline or aniline.



This standard water droplet test applies to all segments of the leather industry; including when buying a pair of boots, to know whether you will have sweaty feet after wearing it; is determine from the same test.



Leather absorbency equals breathability equals seating or wearing comfort, the higher the breathability the more expensive the leather is; that why you see more and more auto pigmented leathers that is perforated primarily serving the same purpose, other than look.



By general appearance your leather is pigmented with mixed of perforated panel and possible to have simulated leather (a fancy word for cheap vinyl) in the non-body contact areas; to be determine after examining the pictures further to conclude.





Two more post will follow...





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Frankieplus]

"By general appearance your leather is pigmented with mixed of perforated panel and possible to have simulated leather"



Thanks for your response Roger, you`ve been very helpful!



Here is where I am confused, you say the the leather is pigmented but when I follow the chart here:

Leather Selector (http://furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Selector.php)



It comes up as being analine / semi-analine..



From the chart I select the green NO. Scratch leaves a mark YES. Water into hidden area penetrates YES. Hidden area bend leather lighter colour NO = Analine

And for the seat insert areas the only difference to the above on that chat is that the fingernail scratch test leaves NO mark which leads to the Semi-Aniline result on that chart..



But I will trust your judgement since you are an expert in this and if you say that it`s pigmented leather I will believe you.. :) Am just checking to make sure that you did notice

that I wrote earlier that the leather does leave a faint mark when I scratch with my fingernail..



-Frankie

[Roger Koh]

Hey Roger, thanks for that - I worked it out.



It`s partly Aniline and partly semi-aniline..



Headrests and armrests are semi, etc..









I do not see any “natural transparency beauty of depth� in these leather panels; so I rule out “Aniline�.



The perforated panel from the 3rd pictures reveals contrasting color in the cross-section of the perforated holes; so the leather structure was never aniline dyed through; again I rule out “Semi-Aniline�.



The 4th picture headrest looks like its “Simulated Leather� (fancy words for vinyl); to positive confirm it, just give a tug-pull or stretch comparison between the center perforated panel; if it is more elastic or stretchy, then it is.





Watch out for two more reply to your post!





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Roger Koh]

Well it`s basically a Nissan Murano 2011-2012 model..

The part of the seat where your bum goes and back is semi-aniline, the rest is aniline.

The sides of the headrest are aniline and where yoru head sits is semi-aniline and also the arnrest on the doors is semi-aniline.

Basically, I put a drop of water in all the sections of the leather and wiped it and it seemed to evaporate/absorb after about a minute.

Then I did a fingernail scratch test to determine the semi-aniline and normal aniline sections..

You can`t tell from the images but the sections that I`m saying are semi-aniline seem to be a very slight lighter shade and feels a little smoother to touch.. Very very mildly smoother/slipperier.









Well it`s basically a Nissan Murano 2011-2012 model..

The part of the seat where your bum goes and back is semi-aniline, the rest is aniline.





Let’s have a close look at pictures #3 and #4.



Picture #3 shows the two panels are quite similar in grain pattern or texture; the lighter colored panel is with addition perforation for more seating comfort; these two panels finish types are “pigmented� leathers.



Picture #4 shows the head rest; notice the texture grain difference, much shallower than the above 2 panels’ types; reason is the difference in thickness between the headrest and pigmented leathers. Due to its being thinner it becomes more elastic when stretch and because it is just a vinyl coating over a thin fabric base it does not have the body thickness (average 1mm) the leather has. So picture #4 is vinyl and not aniline leathers.







The sides of the headrest are aniline and where yoru head sits is semi-aniline and also the arnrest on the doors is semi-aniline.



What I see so far is simply pigmented, pigmented-perforated and vinyl.







Basically, I put a drop of water in all the sections of the leather and wiped it and it seemed to evaporate/absorb after about a minute. Then I did a fingernail scratch test to determine the semi-aniline and normal aniline sections..



I have talk about the water droplet test being not a standard practice. Fingernail scratch test without pictures is so subjective as almost all leathers will scratch to a degree.







You can`t tell from the images but the sections that I`m saying are semi-aniline seem to be a very slight lighter shade and feels a little smoother to touch.. Very very mildly smoother/slipperier.



What you need to see if it is semi-aniline is look at the cross section of stitching holes. It has nothing to do with the surface texture or tactile-feel.





To be continued on cleaning and conditioning…



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Roger Koh]

Well it`s basically a Nissan Murano 2011-2012 model..





Can you reccomend me a good product to use for cleaning and conditioning?

Or should I just leave them alone and just use a damp cloth for cleaning?

What`s the ebst way to keep these seats in the same condition for a few years..









We have to bear in mind that we have both the above surface to up-keep its appearance, as well as the below surface to up-keep its suppleness with softness and strength otherwise it will start to stiffen and cracks from the holes; both from the perforated and the stitching.



This is the recommended guide for a leather-safe maintenance cycle, unlike what’s practice without a system.



â–` Initial Protection

â–` Routine Care

â–` Periodic Care

â–` Restorative Care



â–` Initial Protection

This is simply protecting the leather form friction rubs and against sticky soiling with a choice of a non-slip grip for the steering and a buttery or waxy feels for the seating to match the desired luster, with classic leather scent as an option.

Clean > Rinse > Protect



â–` Routine Care

Routine cleaning involve dusting and neutralizing sweat especially to the steering wheel from deteriorating the leather, starting from the perforated holes and the stitching holes.

It’s recommended to be schedule from weekly to 4 weekly depending on usage with a leather safe pH 3 - 5 sweat neutralizing rinse thereafter resume protection of choice.

Rinse > Protect



â–` Periodic Care

Periodic cleaning would involve removing accumulated sweats and soiling if any with a leather safe pH 3 – 5 cleaner follows with a leather-safe rinse; then protect it.

This is recommended to be schedule from monthly to 4 monthly depending on usage.

Clean > Rinse > Protect



â–` Restorative Care

Restorative cleaning involved stripping all unwanted ageing protector and soiling accumulation back to its original finishes; and rejuvenating the leather structure for suppleness with softness and strength.

This is recommended to be schedule from half yearly to yearly basis.

Prep > Clean > Rinse > hydrate > fatliquor replenish > Protect





Why the need to hydrate and fatliquor replenish?

Periodic hydrating and fatliquor replenishing is only recommended to the perforated and stitching holes respectively as shown in picture #1.

So that they will not easily end up like you see in picture #2.



#1 The raw unprotected leather you find in the cross section of this non-absorbent coated leathers, also known as suede – (1) perforated holes and (2) stitching holes.



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Auto%20Interior/Frankie_1812copy.jpg





#2 The suede holes in this perforated panels becomes dry of its original fatliquor through evaporation or through excess leaching from alcohol and alkaline cleaning solutions; that leads to stiffness and when compress cracks progressively.



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Auto%20Interior/Perforatedholescrackinginprogress.jpg





Further questions are welcome!





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com