New to detailing, few questions

[JJH]

Hey all,



I`m a noob to detailing and have a few questions about some products that I was recommended to use. I have a 2007 Acura TL type-S. I purchased the car used and to my knowledge and from looking over the car thoroughly, it does not appear to have ever been detailed or at least detailed properly. I have posted some pictures at the bottom of this thread. You can see the swirling and scratches. Anyways, I intend on doing the works here in the next month or so. My intent is to wash -->IronX --> ---Clay Bar ---> M105 ---> M205 --->Remove with 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water ---> Finish off with Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant.



I intent on picking up one of two orbital polishers below. Either the Porter cable 7424XP or the Griots Garage 6 inch random orbital polisher. I will be getting 5-6 pads along with the them too.



After doing some reading through the FAQ`s and the stickies, I see that there are many variables to take into account when trying to judge what degree of cutting power will be administered dependent upon paint hardness/softness, polisher speed, pad type, pressure, and obviously the product that you are using.



Do you guys think that this is a good start? Is there much risk involved if I`m careful and do my homework first?



Thanks for the help!







Amazon.com: Porter Cable 7424XP COMPLETE DETAILING KIT + PADS+ BACKING PLATE & ACCESSORIES (13 Items): Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Porter-COMPLETE-DETAILING-BACKING-ACCESSORIES/dp/B003UW1IQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1332251230&sr=8-1)



http://www.detailersdomain.com/Griots-Garage-6-inch-Random-Orbital-Polisher-Base-Kit_p_683.html





http://i.imgur.com/aMWNL.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/Ipdw0.jpg

[Dan]

Sounds like you have a good plan, but I might suggest going with UNO as your compound/polish as it is so much more user friendly. 105 can even be frustrating to experienced pros. It cuts fast but its a bear to work with compared to UNO or even Megs Ultimate compound.

[togwt]

[After doing some reading through the FAQ`s and the stickies, I see that there are many variables to take into account when trying to judge what degree of cutting power will be administered dependent upon paint hardness/softness, polisher speed, pad type, pressure, and obviously the product that you are using]



Test Panel Area



Diagnosis is the key; not guesswork as differing density (hardness) of paints react differently to correction, so before beginning to polish measure the paint thickness (PTG) panel by panel to ensure that you do not select an aggressive polish that will remove too much clear coat



The key to the polishing process is to know how the paint will react with each pad / polish combination you consider using. You must know your product and what its capabilities are before using it. This is why a ‘test’ spot is so important. The factors that affect the outcome -speed, friction (kinetic energy) applied pressure, foam pad actual surface contact area, pad grit number (abrasive ability) amount of surface lubrication available, the surface area and heat conductivity of material



Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required. Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle. Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness.



There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary

[pwaug]

I went with the GG based on input from most here--it has the power to do anything weekend detailers would ever need (apparently not the case with the XP) and it has a life time warranty. The kit at DD has great pads--they are actually Buff and Shine pads with a recessed velcro which adds an extra margin of safety, but you will need more than what comes in the kit. I second Dan`s suggestion to go with UNO as a polish--I`ve had great results as a beginner with the UNO and it won`t cost you an arm and a leg---HD Uno HD Poxy Professional Sizes (http://www.autopia-store.org/HD-Uno-and-HD-Poxy.html) and you get a bottle of POXY as well. As a beginner I just found the UNO eliminated one of the variables I had to contend with--which compound to use, which polish to use etc. You will only need the 16 OZ size of UNO to do 4-6 cars. Watch as many videos as you can and read as much as you can about the polishing process. If you have an older car in you stable perhaps use that for a little practice.



In the interest of keeping it simple when using UNO you would need at least 4 orange, 3- 4 green and 3-4 red pads. Orange for cutting, Green for polishing and red for finishing if you need it. Red is also used to apply you LSP and each LSP you use should have a dedicated pad.

[Astro_ng]

I recommend you get the GG also, as stated earlier it comes with a lifetime warranty, gives a little more power, and also doesn`t sound nearly as horrible at higher speeds.



As for the polish, i`d probably go with Uno and M105/m205, having options is always good.