Quite A Number Of Issues...

[dajonx]

Hi,



There are three major issues that I am encountering and I was wondering if anyone could help me resolve these issues. Warning: The pictures below might induce vomiting to some people... :faint2:



Issue #1

Scratches (I can feel them with my fingernail):

Scratch #1

I think this is a pretty deep scratch.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E3JeL4E7k3g/T19ewKAu_9I/AAAAAAAAAKs/E34l3bGLwZI/s1223/Acura+Deep+Scratch.JPG



Scratch #2

This scratch doesn`t seem quite as deep as scratch #1. (I know... There`s a lot of swirls...)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eL0bXBPFhhY/T19exb7_WiI/AAAAAAAAALM/Lff8vjMxFDs/s936/Acura+Scratch+With+Flash.JPG



Issue #2

Rear Bumper Gash:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zqffq7Gzxx4/T19exCkOA6I/AAAAAAAAALA/-T2Y4m7MgXg/s936/Acura+Gash.JPG

I`m guessing the only resolution to this would be to replace it, right? (Gotta love hit and runs...)



Issue #3

Rear Quarter Panel Dent and Scratched to Bare Metal:

Shot #1

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kPfQIjTKJJc/T19ewUycUVI/AAAAAAAAAK0/NgrA2rPGQ_E/s936/Acura+Dent.JPG



Shot #2

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T-EyXmFxKCI/T19ew2t6q8I/AAAAAAAAAK8/njteC2MwVvo/s936/Acura+Dent1.JPG

Would PDR be able to fix this? How would I be able to fix the paint issue? I used touch-up paint to keep it from rusting...



Issue#4

Oh yeah... One more issue which I don`t have a picture of. Is there a way to make touch up paint less "blob-like"?



I`m trying to learn and hopefully can fix these issues on my 2006 Acura TL. The paint is Nighthawk Black Pearl. Unfortunately, I do not have a DA and will try to work by hand (but will probably have to get a DA later on...).



Hopefully someone(s) can at least direct me to resolve all of these issues.



Thank you

[Dan]

Do some searching on touchup and langka. It will make the deep scratches better, but not perfect. As I`m sure you`ve read, if you can feel the scratch with a finger nail, you are better off not trying to level it.



The dent could be made better with PDR, but no way would it be perfect, most honest PDR techs will tell you to go to a body shop.

[David Fermani]

The scratches are pretty deep, but touching up might be an acceptable cost effective option for you. the quarter in non way shape or form will PDR. And, as a matter of fact, will start to rust in the near future. Get that one fixed though a reputable Body Shop.

[Danspeed1]

Had a scratch like that in my 96 Impala. You have 2 options. Touch up, or try working it out. I don`t think the pro`s are going to agree with this statement but you would be surprised how much blending you could do with a good spot pad and some compound on a rotary. I like to keep it wet with a lot of product, some deionized water in a spray body and try and feather out the lines of the scratch. They never go away, but you wont see them from a distance. I had this happen on my impala, got it almost perfect.... then a shingle flew off the roof of my garage two days later during a storm the car should have never been outside for to begin with.... guess what got scratched, again? I look at it this way... worse case your going to have to repaint it anyway right?



As for the dent... that`s a body shop. PDR is not going to want to have anything to do with that, especially since its missing paint in addition.



DG

[dajonx]

Thank you very much for your advice! I really appreciate it.



For the medium scratches, I was thinking of first attempting to use Ultimate Compound (by hand.. wish me luck..) and see how good/bad it looks. If it`s still bad, then I`ll plan to use touch up paint, but I would like to get the Langka Blob Eliminator...



Do you happen to know what the body shop does to fix the dent? Replace the panel? Take out the dent and sand/prime/respray the entire panel?



If I`m planning on washing, claying, attempt paint correction, and waxing this weekend, how should I approach the dented area? I understand that I will have to have a body shop repair it, but that`s currently not in the budget. I was once quoted $600 from one body shop...

[Dan]

Quick tip about body shops and prices. If you shop on price, you`ll end up with results you won`t be happy with. Shop on quality (by viewing their work) and then see what they can do about price.



As far as washing it this weekend, I wouldn`t worry about it, the moisture in the air will make it rust just as bad as the water on it.

[dajonx]

Thank you. I know this is going to sounds pretty dumb, but how do I see their work? Is it only by pictures if they have taken any? Anything in particular I should be looking for? Do you happen to know how a body shop would repair that dent?

[Dan]

You go to a body shop and tell them you are particular about body repair work, ask them to show you some recent work they have done. A lot of shops will tell you they are busy or their insurance regulations won`t allow for it. Its a crock, but those are the type you want to stay away from. A good shop that wants to earn your business will take you on a tour and show you how they do things and some cars they are finishing or close to finshed. Note the types of cars at the shop, the cleanliness of the work areas and then look at the end results.



As to your dent, I`d guess most places would replace the fender. $600 seems cheap, at least for around here.

[Ron Ketcham]

While not fool proof, but a good indicator of the quality and training of the staff is to look for the I-CAR Silver or Gold sign on the building.

Grumpy

[dajonx]

Thank you. I`ll be sure to ask and observe their work and shop as well as looking for an I-CAR sign.



I went to an online body repair estimate site and this is what it spit out. I guess it`s really low balling the estimate. But then again, Dan thinks most places would replace it.





Body Labor

2.0 hrs @ 44.00/hr 88.00



Paint Labor

4.8 hrs @ 44.00/hr 211.20



Paint Supplies

4.8 hrs @ 20.00/hr 96.00



Color Tint

0.5 hrs @ 44.00 22.00



Cover Car

Sublet

10.00



Haz Waste Disposal

Sublet

5.00



Color Sand and Buff

0.5 hrs @ 44.00 22.00



Total

$ 454.20

[Dan]

While not fool proof, but a good indicator of the quality and training of the staff is to look for the I-CAR Silver or Gold sign on the building.

Grumpy



Good point too, a good body shop is proud of their work and education, they will be glad to reassure you.



Worst ones in my book are the ones that say "Look here buddy, I been paintin` cars since 1955, I KNOW what I`m doing!"

[Accumulator]

dajonx- As Dan said, that`s awfully inexpensive...like, "too good to be true" IMO. I`d be very, *VERY* leery of letting that shop do it.



Since you imply that there are budget constraints, I myself would touch it up and live with it until you can afford a "whatever it costs, that`s OK...just make it look perfectd" type of repair.



Besides the Langka, look into the Dr Colorchips approach. No, it won`t be anywhere near perfect, but it oughta be better. And having a less-than-swell job done by a shop is just a nightmare.

[dajonx]

Thank you.



In your opinion, how much do you think a repair like that would cost in a quality shop? I understand that cost varies from place to place and I was just curious.



Since the dented area is bare metal (in the pictures, I just put some touch up paint to "protect" the area), can you please tell me how to properly band-aid it to prevent it from rusting underneath? Would I need to apply clear coat as well?



This dent irks me tremendously, but the "Boss" doesn`t care about it since it`s purely cosmetic. Happy wife, happy life...

[Accumulator]

Thank you.



In your opinion, how much do you think a repair like that would cost in a quality shop? I understand that cost varies from place to place and I was just curious....



Sorry, can`t help with that as I just tell my usual shops to "fix it" and they charge me whatever it runs. But it`d be a lot more than that.




Since the dented area is bare metal (in the pictures, I just put some touch up paint to "protect" the area), can you please tell me how to properly band-aid it to prevent it from rusting underneath?



If the bare metal is truly clean, it won`t rust. You can treat it with an acidic prep product (I like Rust Bullet`s Metal Blast" the best) or use a rust converter, which will also function as primer.




Would I need to apply clear coat as well?



Usually, though the Dr Colorchips is a single-stage paint that doesn`t have a separate clearcoat. It really is a pretty simple way to go, and if you don`t like how it turns out you can easily wipe it off (with the included solvent) and redo it another way later.



And roger that on the "happy wife, happy life" :xyxthumbs

[dajonx]

I really appreciate everyone`s advice!



I do have a rust converter (Rustoleum, I think) that I could use. Do you think I should remove the old touch-up paint and redo it or add more layers of paint to the dent since it`s uneven with the rest of the OEM paint? Since the area is quite large (maybe about the size of two fingers together?), I don`t believe Dr Colorchip would be any different than using normal touch-up paint, would it?