Product Filling - What`s your process to determine it??

[David Fermani]

Seeing that pretty much any and all compounds/polishes *can* fill to some extent, what is your workflow for checking your pre/final outcome to see if it is true or not??

[Garry Dean]

I generally do a 10% ipa wipe down between section passes when compounding.

[mikenap]

+1 to what Garry said, although lately I`ve been substituting Meg`s glass cleaner for IPA.

[Thomas Dekany]

I used to use Ez Creme Glaze to see if a polish filled or not. Way better method than alcohol. Since using UNO, I tested it out in the sun for months and nothing ever returned, so now I know that if the paint looks perfect, it is.



BTW, did you not get my e mail where I was asking about the leather cleaner?

[Greg Gellas]

I`m gonna wash all the dust off the car anyway so I use a good wash, re-inspect and then correct carefully, as to ensure I don`t have to rewash after the "spot" correction. :D

[VW 91]

I used to use Ez Creme Glaze to see if a polish filled or not. Way better method than alcohol. Since using UNO, I tested it out in the sun for months and nothing ever returned, so now I know that if the paint looks perfect, it is.



BTW, did you not get my e mail where I was asking about the leather cleaner?



Just curious how you can see if it is filled or not with EZ creme, i know it will clean the paint, but wont it fill too after?



And is UNO water based?

[Thomas Dekany]

No - I mean you use IPA and the finish looks great - go over it with EZ Creme and you see the defects. That is my experience.

[imported_WhyteWizard]

I wipe with IPA but the most important thing I think I do is use a headlamp to light up my work. Turn off the lights in your shop, put on an LED headlamp and look at the reflection. Standby to be depressed if your system has any weakness.



The way I finish, the big difference isn`t the look of the paint, just how slick it feels.



Robert

[RaskyR1]

I`ll do a wipe-down or two with IPA/Eraser on my test spots only. If I come across a repainted panel I will verify my process on that panel as well. This is to ensure there is no micro marring (DA Haze) or holograms left after my correction process. Once I have my process dialed in I see no need to wipe the car down again. Using some words from Mike P, I feel like it`s working backwards! I also dislike the idea of using harsh solvents on paint.





One exclusions to that process is for cars where the owner is looking for 99-100% correction and I need to track down every last defect. On cars like this I will wipe the car down after the compounding stage only. From there on I`m confident enough in my abilities to remove and compounding haze that subsequent wipe-down are not needed. To be honest, I actually feel like the swelling of paint hides more defects then the polishes themselves....many times I have wet sanded and compounded a car to come back the next day and see a renaming sanding mark or two that was not visible the night before.



95% of the cars I do my clients are not looking for 100% correction. Most are paying for a 1 or 2 step correction and there will always be some amount of remaining defects. IMO wiping the car down again after final polishing only opens the door for instilling more marring. If you`re worried about your LSP bonding to the paint then I feel washing the car or using a pre-wax cleaning is a better option.



Rasky

[Bill D]

I`ll try the Meg`s glass cleaner for this some time. I typically use IPA, and often use Valugard New Car Prep as a final wipe down only because it is specifically formulated for use on paint finishes. I rarely go all out with all of this because I`m rarely doing a full detail these days.

[Accumulator]

While I`ll sometimes use glass cleaner or ValuGard`s "A", my go-to is TOL`s PrepWash.



Yeah, I`ll use IPA for "non-critical" duty when doing aggressive work, but if I care about minor filling the PrepWash is just soooo much better. And it works swell on the oils in M205, which is more than I can say about IPA (in any concentration, with any dwell-time).

[porta]

I do a IPA wipedown and then I foam the car with a alkalie based degreaser rinse it and wash it with a strong shampo mixture mixed with a little more alkalie degreaser. Rinse. Dry with microfiber towels. If I am going to use a coating- or if the car is not full with polish residues - I use solvent based products like panel wipe.

[Accumulator]

Bill D- Some day I gotta get some of the new version of New Car Prep. Still have the, uhm...potent scent?



Porta- I bet your degreaser is kinda similar to the "A".

[SVR]

I don`t IPA at all anymore whilst correcting. I got sick of having to do it and switched to a fully water based burnproof single polish system

which does not have the solvents and heavy petroleum based oils that I saw cause filling over the years



Do most of my work with a random orbital or DA head on the rotary or a DA, I found that the combo of a rotary - foam pads and a solvent/oily based polish

creating warm to hot temperatures on the paint would cause the filling as the paint swells due to the temp

paint is porous so it could possibly absorb the oils



The only time I IPA is before applying a glass coating on the paint from Asia like the Ark Barrier gear and thats 50/50 or 25/75



By switching to the newest pad technologies and doing most of my work with a 900 watt RO, Rotary with Dynabrade 61375 head and Makita BO6030 with surbuf and

OPT Microfibre pads and the Xpert, I don`t have to worry about filling



the amount of time saved from not doing IPA wipedowns is a reasonable amount

[Paul Sparks]

I find you post very interesting. What waterbased system are you using ?