Opticoat Preparation

[Leadfootluke]

I bought my "new to me" car late last summer and never got the opportunity to properly polish and seal it. A little over 2 years ago I started getting very interested in detailing and had collected a lot of products. Now, with my current job situation and time factoring in, I have cut back on buying products. Lately the only addition to my products has been Optimum Car Wash [and a great addition at that].



I have a small amount I plan on spending on products this spring and am curious how I can optimize my purchases. If you were to buy the products needed to prepare your car [very clean, but never fully detailed, and a lot of rids from the previous owner`s love of tunnel washes] for OC, what would they be? I already have most of the essentials that any detailer would have.



Without putting too much thought into it, I have clay and am considering picking up a new Tar remover [I use Tarminator, is there a noticeably better one?] and IronX for paint decontamination [or the FK system?]. Megs D300 for paint correction/discs [I have M105 and M205 w/hydrotech pads, is D300 a worth it?]. And possibly pads and a finishing polish [the hood repaint is ridiculously soft].



Here is a picture of the car, it is sunburst orange and it appears bright orange in the sun and reddish copper when it`s darker out



http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Redv8s/Avenger/1full.jpg



After bodyshop repaint, and you can see the contrasting orange with sunlight.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Redv8s/Avenger/hologramedit.jpg



http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Redv8s/Avenger/Hoodholograms.jpg



http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o290/Redv8s/Avenger/Hoodholograms3.jpg

[Leadfootluke]

Buuuuuuuump.



Not looking for any in depth advice, just curious what some essential prep products may be.

[RaskyR1]

Product Review: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 – Detailed Image (http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/product-review-optimum-opti-coat-2-0/)

[Leadfootluke]

Product Review: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 – Detailed Image (http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/product-review-optimum-opti-coat-2-0/)



Thanks a lot Chad, I read through your review and watched the videos. My only concern at this moment is how soft the repaint of the hood/bumpers/decklid are [due to an small accident by the previous owner], and leaving very fine marring during the prep, but I will polish it and check it out before I OC it.

[Accumulator]

Leadfootluke- Given the possibly problematic repaint, I think I`d go with the AutoInt/ValuGard decontamination stuff instead of IronX or FK (especially instead of the latter).



If the hood is really *that* soft, you might want to get that finishing polish (e.g., Menzerna PO85RD) to use after the M205 (and do what you need to do to remove the M205`s oils...good luck with that ;) ).

[RaskyR1]

Thanks a lot Chad, I read through your review and watched the videos. My only concern at this moment is how soft the repaint of the hood/bumpers/decklid are [due to an small accident by the previous owner], and leaving very fine marring during the prep, but I will polish it and check it out before I OC it.



Maybe try finishing down with Optimum Polish II or Finish and going straight to OC, no IPA wipe-down required. That has been my preferred method whenever possible. :)

[Leadfootluke]

Leadfootluke- Given the possibly problematic repaint, I think I`d go with the AutoInt/ValuGard decontamination stuff instead of IronX or FK (especially instead of the latter).



If the hood is really *that* soft, you might want to get that finishing polish (e.g., Menzerna PO85RD) to use after the M205 (and do what you need to do to remove the M205`s oils...good luck with that ;) ).



Thanks for the advice!




Maybe try finishing down with Optimum Polish II or Finish and going straight to OC, no IPA wipe-down required. That has been my preferred method whenever possible. :)



Let`s say I polish with M105/205, will Optimum Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-final-polish.html) be sufficient prep, or should I wash/IPA after the M205, finish with OFP and then OC. Or can I go from M105 to OPII or OFP?

[Accumulator]

Let`s say I polish with M105/205, will Optimum Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-final-polish.html) be sufficient prep, or should I wash/IPA after the M205, finish with OFP and then OC. Or can I go from M105 to OPII or OFP?



Noting that I`ve never used OFP...if I used M205 I`d be really concerned about stripping its oils, even if I were using another subsequent polishing step. Those oils are just *such* an issue for me!



I`d even be concerned about whether the IPA will be sufficient (I use stuff like TOL`s PrepWash or maybe OPC or "A").

[Dan]

Leadfootluke, I have some UNO you can have if you want to use that, it cleans up nicely with IPA. PM me and we`ll work out the shipping details.

[RaskyR1]

Thanks for the advice!







Let`s say I polish with M105/205, will Optimum Finish Polish (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-final-polish.html) be sufficient prep, or should I wash/IPA after the M205, finish with OFP and then OC. Or can I go from M105 to OPII or OFP?



Never tried M205 followed by OPT finish...However, I`ve coated a lot of vehicles after using M205 and I`ve not had a single issue with polishing oils in M205 effecting the coating. Prep on those cars was usually just a good wash with CGCW and a foaming with OPC. I don`t want to see you have to buy a bunch of new polishes just to do your vehicle, but it`s nice knowing you can go right to coating after using OPT polishes. Most my Opti-Coat/Guard jobs lately have been D300/MF followed by OPT Hyper Polish, Polish II, or finish. A quick wipe-down wit ha damp MF and I got right to coating. Which polish I chose depends on the paint and how it reacts with each. I did a black 2012 Sonata last weekend which was finished down using PO85RD, which IMO is also loaded with oils. We did a quick ONR wash followed by a quick Eraser wipe-down and the coating went on flawlessly.



http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2012%20Sonata/20120219-_MG_6427.jpg

[Accumulator]

.. I`ve coated a lot of vehicles after using M205 and I`ve not had a single issue with polishing oils in M205 effecting the coating. Prep on those cars was usually just a good wash with CGCW and a foaming with OPC. ... I did a black 2012 Sonata last weekend which was finished down using PO85RD, which IMO is also loaded with oils. We did a quick ONR wash followed by a quick Eraser wipe-down and the coating went on flawlessly.







Ah, good to hear the M205 oils apparently aren`t a big problem with the coating.

[Leadfootluke]

Noting that I`ve never used OFP...if I used M205 I`d be really concerned about stripping its oils, even if I were using another subsequent polishing step. Those oils are just *such* an issue for me!



I`d even be concerned about whether the IPA will be sufficient (I use stuff like TOL`s PrepWash or maybe OPC or "A").



I do know what you`re saying. I have not seen a lot of concern with M205 and OC like I have with M205 and traditional sealants/waxes.




Leadfootluke, I have some UNO you can have if you want to use that, it cleans up nicely with IPA. PM me and we`ll work out the shipping details.



I may take you up on that Dan. Given my limited polishes it is nice to have another to try especially if one isn`t playing nice with the paint.




Never tried M205 followed by OPT finish...However, I`ve coated a lot of vehicles after using M205 and I`ve not had a single issue with polishing oils in M205 effecting the coating. Prep on those cars was usually just a good wash with CGCW and a foaming with OPC. I don`t want to see you have to buy a bunch of new polishes just to do your vehicle, but it`s nice knowing you can go right to coating after using OPT polishes. Most my Opti-Coat/Guard jobs lately have been D300/MF followed by OPT Hyper Polish, Polish II, or finish. A quick wipe-down wit ha damp MF and I got right to coating. Which polish I chose depends on the paint and how it reacts with each. I did a black 2012 Sonata last weekend which was finished down using PO85RD, which IMO is also loaded with oils. We did a quick ONR wash followed by a quick Eraser wipe-down and the coating went on flawlessly.



http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2012%20Sonata/20120219-_MG_6427.jpg



And that`s a big benefit to being the professional that you are. Since I only maintain my personal vehicle it is stupid to buy a bunch of polishes that need to be used once. I have M105 and M205 for polishing, which work excellent especially for knocking down defects, but I am sure I am leaving something on the table by not having a finishing polish.




Ah, good to hear the M205 oils apparently aren`t a big problem with the coating.



Tell me about it! :D

[Scottwax]

I know you can go right to Opti-Coat after using Optimum`s polishes, but I still feel better if I wash with ONR first before applying the coating.

[Leadfootluke]

I know you can go right to Opti-Coat after using Optimum`s polishes, but I still feel better if I wash with ONR first before applying the coating.



In my head I forget that ONR is Body Shop Safe. The cleanliness and gloss left behind make me think it isn`t.

[02whitetundra]

I had a dent pulled at a bodyshop and a new bumper replaced due to a recent hit. How long will I have to wait for the paint to cure to apply Opti coat? I heard two conflicting theories on it. Some say no waiting, others say 90 days.