Cool Tool.

[Brad B]

I have used an infrared pyrometer for several years as a diagnostic tool at the race track. (Tire temp readings, caliper and brake component comparisons, etc.) When I first got mine it was a pricey tool, at around $100, but very useful.



Like any technology, it gets cheaper with age. I have been seeing pyrometers all around now for around $30. Since it`s more affordable some folks may want to consider getting one. It`s amazing what all you can do with one. While perhaps not an essential detailing item, one thing I do with mine is measure the temperature of the surfaces I am waxing. It just confirms for me if the surface is within the operating temperature suggested by the manufacturer. This can be critical when detailing in the cold, or after pulling a cold (or hot) car in from outside to warm up (cool down).



And like I said, it`s fun to use. Did you know that the ambient temperature is often different than surface temps? Certain metals cool and heat faster than others? Nitro Seal treated surfaces are cooler than Poxy surfaces* That cats are warmer than dogs? That my wifes forhead is....oh, you can get in trouble with these things, too. :)



Anyway, these are getting cheap and make great stocking stuffers!



*Ok, I am messin` with ya.



Ambient temp in garage.

http://www.fototime.com/00E201375C5F088/standard.jpg



Surface temp.

http://www.fototime.com/1EE74E84F6ED0E8/standard.jpg



http://www.fototime.com/F3D2DEFC780EE96/standard.jpg

[Ron Ketcham]

I have a Raytex, a little older than your, had it since 97.

Seldom pull it out, not that I don`t like to use it, but a couple of years ago bought one of those little, small ones from HF.

It is acurate enough for buffing, painting, etc, works great, as does the better one for finding cold air leaks around electrical outlets, base boards, etc.

They can also be used to locate a cylinder with a problem, etc.

Everyone who works on cars should have at least the cheap one and an electronic paint thickness gauge.

Oh, and I have never used the micro setting, only mil setting on any of mine.

Wasn`t trained that way, none of the folks I worked with at the Big 3 used microns for paint measurement, guess I am just a hard head.

Grumpy

[Accumulator]

Brad B.- Thanks for posting that up, I hadn`t realized those things were so affordable!

[C. Charles Hahn]

Those are some cool little tools; used mine recently to diagnose a misfiring problem for a friend. Just take readings at each port of the exhaust manifold/header and the one that reads cooler than the rest is the problem cylinder.



Pretty common to find them these days, Home Depot, Lowes, even Harbor Freight sells them for around $25

[Lowejackson]

Anyone ever measured a section of a panel just after polishing or the face of a pad just after polishing?

[Brad B]

Anyone ever measured a section of a panel just after polishing or the face of a pad just after polishing?



Yes, I can`t remember any of the temps but the differences between a rotary and a RA were amazing.

[Ron Ketcham]

In the "hands on" portion of our training class, we would have a couple of gauges in the hands of the students.



We would explain the difference that the "speed" of the rotary would make in quickly producing high skin temps of the paint surface.

Would go on and explain that since we did not use crysiline silica, but amorphus silca (you guys bought into the "diminishing abrasive" marketing" which is this type of silica, too fast of speed of the rotary broke the particles very quickly and turned it into a polish.



They could watch as the temps very quickly grew beyond acceptable temps.



The change to this type of abrasive was one of my first of many changes to the product line when I joined AI.(late 1995)

It allows the user to run at low speed and still "cut or abraid", which of course created less heat and less stress on the clear.



Continuing to create temps above 115F on a modern clear will thermal stress the resin system. This may not be visable at the time.

However, often, a few months later, crazing may be seen on portions of the paint surface where the excessive heat was created.



That is when one observes the "failing of the clear"-IE, very cloudy, starts to delaminate from the base coat, etc.



I think that at one time Professional Car Wash magazine ran an article they had me write, with pictures showing a gauge reading the panels with various types of pads and speeds.



Another thing was how a geniune lambs wool polishing pad would create less heat than a foam pad.



People seem to think that a foam is much more safe to use in regarding creation of heat.

Not necessarily so.

A dual action, of course, creates much less heat in the panel, however, it can still create excessive heat when used by a novice.

Thats why the digital temp gauge is a must investment for anyone using any polishing machine on their vehicles.

Grumpy

[Ch96067]

Ron, would it be possible please that you clarify a little on your text in the second paragraph?



Do you mean diminishing=good or not in terms of heat creation?



Many thanks in advance.

[Ron Ketcham]

Good if you use the correct product/speed/pad/tool.

Diminishing is "good", after all it took the chemical marketers a few decades to understand that "quick cut" is not the best for modern low VOC, modern resin clears.

An added bonus it that the new abrasives do not promote health issues.

Grumpy

[Ch96067]

Thank you Ron for the reply. Brad apologies for the offtopic :redface1: