Y/A How to make Silver "POP"

[LeMarque]

Well, I`ll use this post to kind of introduce myself while asking the first of (probably) many questions.



I`ve lurked this forum for some time now and there was a response to a thread where-in the poster added something to the effect of `I thought we were ARTISTS on this forum`.



That comment struck a deep chord with me.



I`m coming out of semi-retirement (hint at my age) having spent two decades running auto repair shops and more recently some IT stuff.



Anyway, I regret ever having left the the auto business (the smell, sites, sounds) and have come to the decision to open a small detail shop. My hope is to gain a reputation so that eventually my clientele will be exotics, garage queens and those folks who appreciate the time and attention, as well as my dedication to provide the very best.



I`ve committed to one training session so far (sometime in Nov/Dec) and may seek additional specialized training in the near future. I realize that initially I`ll have to offer `express detail` services, but my aspiration is paint correction/concours end results.



Now I realize, and have some experience, in the fact that a good eye, paint prep and the like, is a perquisite to achieving jewel like results.



All that said, I`m still very much a n00b and so my first question has to do with what appears to be the most popular color of the daily drivers in my neck of the woods - Silver, Silver/Grey.



I have lurked the popular detailing forums for hours and hours on end and searched and tried to decipher why one 2 step or 3 step process yields better or worse results. My uneducated conclusion is that when you have top dedicated chemists developing pads and chemicals, the end result, as far as what one individual `artist` uses to achieve a Jewell finish, is a process of trial and error in their experimenting with combinations of the materials they choose to experiment with, and then staying with and refining their technique.



The proceeding pseudo-philosophy of mine pre-supposes universal raves (or rants) from those in the know.



And I also like this recent post... `Make no mistake about it- most of the problem is not necessarily the liquids or paste products we are using right now, but rather our procedures while using the products (pad type and size, backing plate rotation, machine OPM setting, applied pressure, amount of product used during polishing, and pad cleanliness.)...It means that most of us have room to grow in terms of how to extract maximum performance from what`s already available.`



OK. OK



I got a cookbook from my 16 year old daughter for my birthday - no really! `Cause I do a good share of the cooking. But sheesh. Every recipe had a gazillion ingredients; each had to be prepared in a certain manner then allowed to rest while some other ingredients were ... well, you get my drift. And I`ve read threads about mixing products and certain sealants that need to cure, two coats of different LSP, etc., etc.! I`ve read Colinite, DuraGloss, Megs M26



<thud>



I`m currently helping the son of one of my best friends get his BMW repair shop up and running here in the Desert South West, and rather then just use what I believe to be the go to product for most detail shops, Megs D151, I`d like to detail a few of his customers cars before I head off to training and I`d appreciate any recommendations for a process to make Silver/SilverGrey POP.



I know I probably could`ve just posted that last sentence and I`m never this long winded, but now you know a bit about me. I don`t know if that`s bad or good, but Damn the Torpedoes ...

[lostdaytomorrow]

I`ve used Pinnacle Souveran on Silver and it sure did look wet, I`ve also user Chem. guys butter wax on silver and it looked good. Getting the pop is all about the polishing though, the LSP is just icing on the cake.

[Scottwax]

After proper polishing, Opti-Seal topped with Optimum Car Wax.



http://uploader.ws/upload/201110/2008_Nissan_350Z_frontend1.jpg

[autoaesthetica]

Proper polishing - then whatever you like, synthetics have the edge.

[jaymz]

Do a good polish, then top with BlackFire Wet Diamond and Wet Glaze 2.0. WG2.0 is the only thing I`ve used that make White and Dilver "pop."



Jim

[Scooby24]

From what I`ve seen, it seems like after a good prep and paint correction, anything you put on it afterwards will look the same. The only time I actually see a difference in products make a car "pop" is when the car hasn`t been corrected and the "pop" is artificially creating a better look than the paint had before application.

[togwt]

Paint cosmetic products that white and light colour paint respond well to after correct paint preparation -Aquartz System (Silica) Zaino Z2PRO™, Jeff Werkstatt, Klasse SG (an acrylic polymer) and / or P21S Carnauba Paste Wax and Pinnicle Souveran wax



http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/137465-detailing-care-white-silver-paint.html

[LeMarque]

Thanks for the replies guys.



Gotta get to my day job. Post back later.

[Brad B]

Lots of choices.



Here is HD NitroSeal on my dark silver Cayman S

http://www.fototime.com/BBF83C5E751673F/standard.jpg



And Zaino Z2 on my light silver Audi S4

http://www.fototime.com/C9AC9C11152A84F/standard.jpg



And HD Poxy on my silve-blue Carrera

http://www.fototime.com/43BA8A750E927BB/standard.jpg

[Accumulator]

Most people never get silver truly corrected as it can be *VERY* difficult to see minor marring; I spend about as much time inspecting my silver vehicles as I do correcting them (and consider that that means when we`re talking Audis :eek: ). And once you get the marring out, there`s still the burnishing/jeweling step, which probably won`t yield any diffs dramatic enough to be visible under most shop conditions but will make a difference in the vehicle`s overall appearance.



Yeah, the LSP is merely a subtle icing on the cake, but it can make a (subjective) difference.



And of course you then have to wash it in such a way that you don`t reintroduce any of that marring, including the "too fine to readily see" flaws that will mute the "pop" by refracting light.

[dschribs]

I`ve had 3 silver cars in the family in the last few years. I really loved the look of 845 on Silver. Very reflective. It`s got the added benefit of being pretty bullet proof as well. I`ll be trying HD Poxy next. But as the others have said - the end result is mostly about the prep - not the LSP.

[countrysquire]

Like Brad, I have been very pleased with the HD Poxy and use it on my personal silver car as well. Echoing the good advice that you have already received, prep is everything. Get the surface as pure as possible and the metallic flakes in the silver will simply glow in the sun.



http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/311946_283439181684413_283436301684701_1119576_183 8104687_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/311302_283439215017743_283436301684701_1119577_163 4576784_n.jpg

[LeMarque]

[quote name=`Brad B.`]Lots of choices.



Here is HD NitroSeal on my dark silver Cayman S





And Zaino Z2 on my light silver Audi S4





And HD Poxy on my silve-blue Carrera



OK, be that way:drool:



Today a guy drove into the shop with a 5 series BMW that he uses to drive around on his 640 acre ranch instead of using his pickup. It was scratched front to back by cholla cactus and the roof line just in front of the moon roof has clear coat failure. Needs a couple of wiring harness to replace the ones the mice ate. Perfect car to practice on `cause I really can`t see how I can damage it; all things considered. I`ll post some pics.

[LeMarque]

You mean I have it wash it too!

[LeMarque]

And of course you then have to wash it in such a way that you don`t reintroduce any of that marring, including the "too fine to readily see" flaws that will mute the "pop" by refracting light.



You mean I also have to wash it!