Product Recommendations - Black 1999 Tahoe

[dachrist]

Hello



I have a 1999 Tahoe. The paint is in OK condition, up close you can see swirling/cloudy paint but looks good from about 10 feet away. I want to do a good detailing on it, so I plan to purchase a PC7424XP machine. My question is which swirl remover/polish to buy. I have narrowed it down to:

1. Meguiar`s M105/205 combo

2. Wolfgang TSR 3.0/Finishing Glaze 3.0



If I go with the Meguiar`s combo I will seal using NXT, if I go with the Wolfgang I will seal using Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.



What would you guys recommend?

[Street5927]

The 105/205 is a good combo. Optimum hyper compound/hyper polish is also a good combo....longer work time. A nice looking sealant is the BlackFire Wet Diamond, but the durability lacks slightly. A very durable polish/sealant combo is the Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection & Super Resin Polish. You will get a nice look and great durability..if you want to step up the slickness and protection a bit, you can top it with Collinite 845 (especially with winter right around the corner)

[Accumulator]

Hello



I have a 1999 Tahoe. The paint is in OK condition, up close you can see swirling/cloudy paint but looks good from about 10 feet away. I want to do a good detailing on it, so I plan to purchase a PC7424XP machine....



I`d get a Griot`s 6" RO instead. I have a Tahoe of that vintage and the clear is pretty hard.




My question is which swirl remover/polish to buy. I have narrowed it down to:

1. Meguiar`s M105/205 combo

2. Wolfgang TSR 3.0/Finishing Glaze 3.0



Even with the M105 it`s gonna be a bit of a project. You don`t want to try this with insufficiently aggressive stuff; even light marring can be a challenge on that paint. The Griot`s/orange LC cutting pad/M105 will *NOT* be too aggressive for the first step, barely aggressive enough IMO.




If I go with the Meguiar`s combo I will seal using NXT, if I go with the Wolfgang I will seal using Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.



What would you guys recommend?



I`d want something much more durable on it than either of those- FK1000P or Collinite wax are what I use on such vehicles.

[dachrist]

I`d get a Griot`s 6" RO instead. I have a Tahoe of that vintage and the clear is pretty hard.







Even with the M105 it`s gonna be a bit of a project. You don`t want to try this with insufficiently aggressive stuff; even light marring can be a challenge on that paint. The Griot`s/orange LC cutting pad/M105 will *NOT* be too aggressive for the first step, barely aggressive enough IMO.







I`d want something much more durable on it than either of those- FK1000P or Collinite wax are what I use on such vehicles.



What would you suggest as a first step other than the M105? I have heard of the Collinite, would that be overkill to put that over the Deep Gloss Sealant? Or use Collinite instead of the sealant?

[Slate G8 GT]

I did my sisters `02 tahoe and used Opt new compound II with Megs MF cutting disc with great results. Finished down good enough for an abused DD that I didn`t hafta use the polish on it. I went ahead and coated it with OC so I wouldn`t hafta worry about waxing that beast again ;).



My sisters 2002 Chevy Tahoe - Live2Detail (http://www.live2detail.com/showthread.php?t=2190)

[imported_Time2Shine]

Agree with 105/205 but disagree with the BFWD durability comment. I reguarly see 2-3mo durability.

[SpoolinNoMore]

What would you suggest as a first step other than the M105? I have heard of the Collinite, would that be overkill to put that over the Deep Gloss Sealant? Or use Collinite instead of the sealant?



UNO works as a good compound with far less dusting and a longer working time than 105, optimum compound works very well also

[dachrist]

Another question, how many pads should I buy? Will 3 LC Orange, 2 LC White and 1 LC Black be enough?

[wascallyrabbit]

that`ll probably be good for a start.

[Accumulator]

Agree with 105/205 but disagree with the BFWD durability comment. I reguarly see 2-3mo durability.



That`s what I meant; I want a *LOT* longer than that on my SUVs.




What would you suggest as a first step other than the M105?



The OHC is much more user-friendly, and if it`ll cut OK with the MF pads (haven`t tried that yet) then OK. My only gripe about it is that it`s pretty mild for a "compound".




Or use Collinite instead of the sealant?



I`d either use FK1000P (two or more coats but with at least a week or two between them) or Collinite (ditto on the multiple coats/timeframe).




Another question, how many pads should I buy? Will 3 LC Orange, 2 LC White and 1 LC Black be enough?



Ifyou substitute the MF pads you might only need two of those (based on what Barry Theal tells me) but if you get the orange light cut pads I`d want at least five or so for a Tahoe (bet I used more than that on mine).



I`d want more than two LC white pads too, but FWIW I used Griot`s orange polishing pads (milder than most "orange pads") as they have a bit more cut than the LC white and still finish out fine on GM clear. I probably used five or so on my Tahoe.



If you`re using the LC black for finishing polishing (bet you don`t need to, but it *can* bump things up a bit) then get several. If you`re thinking about using it for the LSP a) I`d do that by hand, and b) if you want to use the machine I`d get the LC gold pad instead.

[dachrist]

I think I am leaning now towards the Optimum Compound II with the MF cutting pads, and finishing up with the Polish II with LC flat white foam pads. Seems as though I can get some more life out of the MF Cutting pads than buying 5(!) orange pads.

[usdm]

I think I am leaning now towards the Optimum Compound II with the MF cutting pads, and finishing up with the Polish II with LC flat white foam pads. Seems as though I can get some more life out of the MF Cutting pads than buying 5(!) orange pads.



Ive messed around with the mf pads for a little while now, and I can definitely cosign that they have better cutting ability and work a lil cooler over some of the foam pads I have. And all things considered, I am finding that the mf pads tend to hold up better over time than the foams. Foams still hold value though, as Ive needed them for finishings, applying glaze or waxes, and when I have to use a rotary.

[Lonnie]

Are the Surfbuf R Series pads and the Megs Microfiber Pads similar??

Seems to me that if you have a hard clear as noted on this 1999 Tahoe, a 4" Surfbuf pad may be a "better" choice with a Porter-Cable 7424XP.

[dachrist]

From what I read the Surfbuf pads are a bit more aggressive, but I`ve seem some very nice after shots from using the new Optmimum Compound II and the MF cutting disk.



I think I am going for the Griot`s polisher as well, seems to have a bit more power.

[Rei86]

If you`re using the LC black for finishing polishing (bet you don`t need to, but it *can* bump things up a bit) then get several. If you`re thinking about using it for the LSP a) I`d do that by hand, and b) if you want to use the machine I`d get the LC gold pad instead.



Wait, why do you not like the LC black pads for an LSP? Black/Blue/Red/Gold should all be fine for LSP usage. Also is it just one of your things to not use a machine for LSP?