Odd leather stain....Help needed

[Justin R]

I have this weird stain on my drivers seat bolster that I cant seem to remove. The first picture is of th stain after it was cleaned with Zaino Leather Cleaner and a microfiber, dried and conditioned with Zaino Leather in a Bottle. The second picture shows the stain when water is poured on it...it gets very dark and spreads out.



Any help removing this is appreciated.



08 Mustang with Chamois colored leather



http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k11/jreed5o/photo2-1.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k11/jreed5o/photo-3.jpg

[dubber]

bug repellant?

my fiance ruined her Coach purse becasue she had a little bug spray on her arms. the spot looks identical

[Justin R]

bug repellant?

my fiance ruined her Coach purse becasue she had a little bug spray on her arms. the spot looks identical

no not bug spray. If its anything it would be petroleum based..maybe grease or motor oil itself. My idiot brother took my car to the auto parts store after working on his car.

[togwt]

Use Leather Master™ Leather Degreaser, this aerosol product is used for cleaning oily stains; it dissolves and removes oil and grease from leather surface. This cleaner can be applied for cleaning all types of leather (check for colour fastness) this aerosol product is ideal for cleaning this type of stain as it dissolves the oils and transforms them into a powder that is more absorbent than the leather. This powder is what is wiped off, cleaning and degreasing the leather. Allow the white powder to dry fully. If the powder is drying to a yellow colour, it means that there are still a lot of oils in the leather.



Using a Medium / hard horse hair brush, or a soft sponge, spray and work the cleaner into a foam, lightly scrub surface and immediately wipe with a terry towel to remove excess moisture, especially around stitching (you may need to repeat this process).



Once the surface has been cleaned the pigmentation (colour) may need to be re-done on that panel section.



Swissvax Leather Healer is an easy-to-apply leather dye comprising a high number of super fine pigments combining best results with a minimum thickness of the dye application so that the look and feel of the leather is not affected as it is the case with many other leather dyes. The Swissvax dye is easily applied with a small sponge and sets automatically and permanently. The leathers fine and natural structure as well as its typical original feel are perfectly preserved.



46 standard colours are available or you can also send a small leather sample and they will match your interiors leather colour.

[Roger Koh]

I have this weird stain on my drivers seat bolster that I cant seem to remove.

Any help removing this is appreciated.







To remove the posible dye transfer stain "Non-destructively" is positively high.



To eliminate the darkening effect is also a high posibility.



But, What is the weired mark in red circle?



Was it there before the stain?



Or only appears after the failed attempt?





Note:

When leather becomes wet and dry again it will feel stiffer than before.

The topocat has failed in the water test as shown in the 2nd picture.

It is highly recommended that the leather structure be soften with suppleness and strength by hydrating and fatliquoring prior to restoring the damaged topcoat.





http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/photo-31.jpg





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Justin R]

To remove the posible dye transfer stain "Non-destructively" is positively high.



To eliminate the darkening effect is also a high posibility.



But, What is the weired mark in red circle?



Was it there before the stain?



Or only appears after the failed attempt?





Note:

When leather becomes wet and dry again it will feel stiffer than before.

The topocat has failed in the water test as shown in the 2nd picture.

It is highly recommended that the leather structure be soften with suppleness and strength by hydrating and fatliquoring prior to restoring the damaged topcoat.





http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/photo-31.jpg





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com



That is a wear crease in the leather that was present before the damage occurred.



I`ll have to read on your site about fatliquoring.



I also tried some APC with a medium brush with no success.





I am kicking myself for not getting black leather

[Roger Koh]

That is a wear crease in the leather that was present before the damage occurred.



I`ll have to read on your site about fatliquoring.



I also tried some APC with a medium brush with no success.





I am kicking myself for not getting black leather





That is a wear crease in the leather that was present before the damage occurred.

If that is so, it is not a concern…only that the damaged top coat need restored after the stain removal.



I`ll have to read on your site about fatliquoring.

Hydrating and fatliquoring is highly recommended as the leather structure has been penetrated with foreign contamination of sort. Hydrating helps to wicks up these contamination and restore its pH balance charging the protein leather fiber positive for more effective hydrogen-bonding with the negative fatliquor.



I also tried some APC with a medium brush with no success.

Most APC are alkaline you may want to neutralize it with a leather acidifier to return to the leather chemistry integrity of pH 3 – 5.



I am kicking myself for not getting black leather.

Are you going back to the era of Henry Ford? Take a look at the below pictures…does the first picture stain looks worst than yours…and the result of leather-safe cleaning?



Once the non-leather-safe residue is neutralized, Stain removed non-destructively, re-topcoat it…it will return back to your original appearance.



Now to keep its appearance high at all times, a routine non-stick rub resistant protection will keep you worry free!



#2 Blue Jean Dye Stain

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LandRover2.jpg



#3 Shows sample removal

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LandRover3.jpg





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[Ron Ketcham]

Do you wear blue jeans?

New ones, etc?

Grumpy

[Justin R]

That is a wear crease in the leather that was present before the damage occurred.

If that is so, it is not a concern…only that the damaged top coat need restored after the stain removal.



I`ll have to read on your site about fatliquoring.

Hydrating and fatliquoring is highly recommended as the leather structure has been penetrated with foreign contamination of sort. Hydrating helps to wicks up these contamination and restore its pH balance charging the protein leather fiber positive for more effective hydrogen-bonding with the negative fatliquor.



I also tried some APC with a medium brush with no success.

Most APC are alkaline you may want to neutralize it with a leather acidifier to return to the leather chemistry integrity of pH 3 – 5.



I am kicking myself for not getting black leather.

Are you going back to the era of Henry Ford? Take a look at the below pictures…does the first picture stain looks worst than yours…and the result of leather-safe cleaning?



Once the non-leather-safe residue is neutralized, Stain removed non-destructively, re-topcoat it…it will return back to your original appearance.



Now to keep its appearance high at all times, a routine non-stick rub resistant protection will keep you worry free!



#2 Blue Jean Dye Stain



Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com



Ok I read the thread by David Fermani and I`d like to give your product a try. David detailed my car last year and I trust his opinion.



Your strore front is not working on the site. How do I place an order ?

[judyb]

This does not appear to be dye transfer of any sort as the reaction to the water seems to indicate that the surface has been damaged and whatever has caused the stain hss penetrted the leather. If this is oil/grease based then the degreasing process mentioned above would need to be done. Adding `fat liquors` is not only unnecessary but may make the problem worse and not help with any restoration work that needs to be done.



If colour needs replacing after the degreasing it is best to use a complete finishing system rather than something like the Swisswax method which will not be robust enough to refinish the leather against wear. Bonded colours such as these are ok for minor scuffs and scratches but not for recolouring wear areas.



Hope this helps

Judyb

Leather consultant

[Roger Koh]

Ok I read the thread by David Fermani and I`d like to give your product a try. David detailed my car last year and I trust his opinion.



Your strore front is not working on the site. How do I place an order ?





By the way…show us pictures after the 2nd picture when the leather is dry. I believe the appearance will revert back to picture #1. This will tell us that the stain is not “grease” derived. Using solvent based degreaser would be overkill with more damages into the color coat as the topcoat is already damaged by the failed attempt. Easy to talk about color repairs…in practice color touch-up on middle range color takes longer time to achieve than would be darker color. My recommendation is to avoid color repairs, but damage area needs to be neutralized of alkaline overexposure to re-strengthen its chemistry integrity, thereafter the damaged topcoat is restored with matching luster matte or satin soft urethane OEM grade topcoat. Note that satin topcoat is stronger than matte by approximately 25%. Thus for added strength to the damaged finish a gloss is applied first with fine tuning with either satin or matte to match original luster.



Concerning hydrating and fatliquoring…the 2nd picture shows that the leather structure has already been contaminated from failed stain removal attempt. The alkaline residue from the APC is recommended to be neutralized. Bring it out to the surface is done by the wicking process after neutralizing and hydration. Fatliquoring into the leather structure will return the leather softness, suppleness and strength when dry. As fatliquor is an emulsion that looks like fresh milk, strays on the surface is easily driven into the leather structure by foam brushing again with the hydrator. Note that fatliquor is unique unlike other oils, will not interfere with the result of water-based urethane topcoating thereafter. Otherwise, without hydrating and fatliquoring, the leather slowly stiffens up and will eventually end up like this picture in years to come…



While the on-line store is not open yet, email me for links to the products.



Roger Koh

Email: info@leatherdoctor.com



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/IMG_2964-1.jpg

[judyb]

If pigment has been damaged then it needs replacing. No products could resolve this problem if this is what has hppened. Degreasing does not necessarily damag the pigment but if the stain has been caused by oil/ grease based products (as has already been stated) then this needs removing before any repair work can take place otherwise the repair will not take. Leather pigment repairs take no longer for these coloured leathers than any other if you get a pigment matched to the colour. Satin topcoat is always applied as a first coat and then the sheen is adjusted with a matt or semi matt finish to match the sheen on the leather.



Re fatliquoring leather is neither possible nor necessary on this type of leather



Hope this helps

Judyb

[togwt]

[Re fatliquoring leather is neither possible nor necessary on this type of leather]





When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes. The only `conditioning` required for finished leather upholstery is hydration.



The purpose of rehydration is to restore moisture lost through evaporation, so whatever the surface finish it has to allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration) As leather is porous, it loses its moisture through evaporation at a rate dependent upon two variables; ambient humidity level, and heat. Where ambient conditions are very hot and / or experience very low humidity, finished leather will lose its moisture, which must be replaced.

[Roger Koh]

These two pictures show the advance technique of hydrating and fatliquoring utilizing tissue paper with cling wrapper. This combination rejuvenating system will soften up the leather to as soft as you wish and prevent further stiffening and cracking.



This technique was developed to work on the vertical areas controlling the hydrator and fatliquor from flowing downwards. The tissue paper acts as a reservoir while the plastic wrapping ensure no lost of solutions from evaporation but into the leather structure.





Questions are welcome!





#1 hydrating

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/079.jpg



#2 fatliquoring

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/084-1.jpg





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

[David Fermani]

Hi Justin!!!




Ok I read the thread by David Fermani and I`d like to give your product a try. David detailed my car last year and I trust his opinion.





I`m sure people are scratching their head wondering if the great David Fermani, king of the tootbrush :Fermani:, had anything to do with this mess.......NOPE. I only polished the outside. LOL. :nervous: :nono:



It almost looks like someone had something between their legs (like a soda) and it damaged the leather surface? It doesn`t look like a transfer, but more like surface damage. Especially the cracking. Ouch. Has anything ever spilled on this area? Ever use anything that could be on the harsh side either? Let me know if you want me to come by and check it out.