What do I need to buy?

[juddev]

I just got my PC 7424 back after 2 years or so and it came back with no pads, or backing plate. I just bought an Vixen all fiberglass Rv that has been stored outdoors for 7 years and needs to be cleaned and polished and hopefully the shine might come back.

What pads and chemical cutting agents and polishes would you recommend I order?

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/juddev/Vixen%20SE/STP61091.jpg



http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/juddev/Vixen%20SE/STP61080.jpg

Thanks

[Dan]

Wow, that looks pretty grungy. For something that big, I`d def want to use an AIO, I can`t imagine multi-stepping. DG501 is a great cleaner, but I`m not sure its up to that finish. Perhaps look into Megs RV/Boat stuff?

[juddev]

I have never heard of durogloss..but the reviews are fantastic.

What backing pad and cutting/polishing pads are best to use with a porter cable and DG501?

Thanks

[Brad B]

There are usually soft, medium and firm pads. The firm would be the way to go for polishing for you. Get a velcro 6" backing pad.



Do a quick search for lots of specific ideas on pads.



Looks like a great (BIG) project. Be sure to post after shots!

[wascallyrabbit]

i would start with RV Cleaning Products - RVTECH - 1-866-788-3249 (http://www.streak-x.com/productcart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=3) to clean it. then move onto polishing.

[juddev]

What do you think about this?



Doing research on cleaning RV`s I came upon this:



From: RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Chalky gelcoat? Red Max Pro -- once more through the mill (http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24787754/srt/pa/pging/1/page/8.cfm)











This is already posted in the Class C section, but since there seems to be alot of interest here as well, and questions about the process, here`s a tutorial I put together. I`m no expert on this; I just discovered it, here on these forums, and after alot of research, decided to give it a try. Here`s what I learned in the process and what worked for me:



Restoring the finish of an older motorhome using Red Max Pro (#3):



Materials:

-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish (available at Lowes)

-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)

-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)

-3M scrubbies (white)

-White Microfiber rags

-Latex gloves



http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/4x4van/ScreenShot032.jpg



Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating. Start by washing your motorhome as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, rinsing well from the top down.



Now, you want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface of the motorhome. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go. I used a "flow-thru" brush with a hose to rinse the BKF thoroughly as I went.



The next step is to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the motorhome, since wax can cause the Red Max to peel. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and wash the entire motorhome. You can use a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use. Rinse well, and let the motorhome dry completely. You should be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) surface. Congrats, the prep-work is now complete!





Now for the easy part. Pour some Red Max Pro (RMP) into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the motorhome with the wet rag. Don’t try to over-apply; just wet the surface (imagine wiping a layer of dust off with a wet rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “wet” the surface. Work your way all the way around the motorhome. RMP will dry quickly; before you’ve gone all the way around, it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.



That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will even it out and start to build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well. Even old. faded, cracked graphics will have a new lease on life! All for about $30!



Things (I learned) to keep in mind:



-Don’t use colored microfiber rags unless they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.



-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP is very watery and can have a tendency to gather and run at those spots. Watch for runs and give them a quick wipe with the rag before they start to “set up”.



-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag. Watch for this and change or re-fold your rag so you don’t spread that color onto other parts of the MH. If this occurs, it should only happen with the first coat, as the RMP will then “seal” the graphics up. Subsequent coats will not have the problem.



-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The acrylic (RMP) coating will sort of “glue” them closed.



-You can also do the window frames and other painted metal areas; I did my entire Class C cab since it was very faded and dull. Came out fantastic!



* This post was edited 06/13/11 11:37am by 4x4van *

[wascallyrabbit]

i would not use bar keepers friend on a green scrubing pad on any thing. while tsp is a good cleaner i`m not sure how well it will clean your rv. i didn`t notcie any black streaks in the pics you post but you didn`t show the sides of the rv either. don`t think floor finish is the way togo on the exterior but maybe it`ll work. i would still get the streak-x and at minimum polish any remaining oxidation of with either a good aio or a 2 step process. either way you go you`ll have a fair amount of work but its doable. just take on step at a time.