Normal after macine polishing?

[imported_RedlineIRL]

I tested out a couple new products that I just bought, a compound and a polish on a old pannel that I have lying around. Before polishing this pannel was cleaned thoroughly, dawn washed, and sprayed with Meguiars APC. So I divided the pannel in sections and used both the compound and polish in different ones. I used my PC 7424 with 6.5" orange LC CCS pads, dedicated testing pads now since I don`t bother with 6.5" anymore, and was pretty surprised at the results I got even with a 6.5" pad. Afterwards I washed the pannel off with a Dawn wash just to make sure that this was nothing more than a fill job. The polished sections of the pannel seemed to repel water rather quickly, so I turned the hose nozzle setting on mist and the polished sections were beading like I just got finished applying fresh LSP. I tried Dawn washing multiple times, spraying the sections down with undilluted Optimum Power Clean and then dawn washing,spraying undilluted Meguiars APC and then dawn washing. I probably washed this pannel 10 times in total with dawn and whatever else I sprayed on it. Even after this, the water still beaded if I sprayed the polished sections with the mist setting on the hose nozzle.



The compound and polish I used claim to be free of silicone oils and be body shop safe. But if this is the case there should not be any beading period IMO, since beading usually indicated some kind of oils or lubricants, correct? I tired everything I could think of short of an IPA to kill the beading, but I couldn`t get it to stop doing so. Is beading and sheeting a natural reaction to a surface after polishing, even if it is not loaded with fillers and oils? If not, why am I still getting beading after all of this? All I want to do is see the true surface

[dschia]

Instead of checking out for beading, maybe you can try rinsing and observe how it sheets water. The polish lubs could have long gone.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, beading isn`t always the result of oils/etc. on the surface; look how water will bead on a (glass) mirror...or, more to the point, on fresh paint. I`ve washed repainted cars that had *NOTHING* on them except the new paint job, and the water beaded on them if I sprayed it right.



A "flooding rinse" will usually behave differently though.



See how the surface feels when you touch it, I`d expect something along the lines of squeaky-clean.

[imported_RedlineIRL]

The pannel seems to sheet water sort of quickly and swirled areas that were untouched just puddle on the surface. The polished surfaces doesn`t feel slick or greasy to the touch as if any residual oils were left on the surface, just more of a dry but smooth feel. I left the pannel out in the 90 degree sun today and no oils evaporated to the surface, so I guess that is a good sign.



This just kind of baffles me how water can run off the surface and bead as if there was a LSP applied, but yet I can`t kill it off when using the previously mentioned attempts. I am testing this commpound and polish as much as I can before actually using it on a vehcile, becuase I have been down the route too many times with polshes that claim no oils and fillers, yet after a wash the previous defects are back again. I want to make sure I have this 100% before using it on a vehicle. Anything else I could try besides what I have already done and an IPA to make sure all residual oils and fillers are out, or does it sould like what I have tried should have removed anything left behind?





Accumulator, by a flooding rise, are you refering to letting an open ended hose run across the surface? When doing this what should I look for to indicate no oils left on the surface?





Also, if a product is hard to clean out of pads is that any kind of indication of heavy fillers and oils? These products, new formula Optimum Compoound II and Optimum Polish II, seemed kind of hard to clean out of basic LC foam cutting pads

[Accumulator]

The pannel seems to sheet water sort of quickly and swirled areas that were untouched just puddle on the surface....



Well, the polished sections are smoother so I wouldn`t be surprised if the water behaves differently on those areas than on the swirled ones.




Anything else I could try besides what I have already done and an IPA to make sure all residual oils and fillers are out, or does it sould like what I have tried should have removed anything left behind?



It sounds like you`ve already been pretty thorough, but I really *REALLY* like TOL`s PrepWash for this sort of thing, much better than IPA for instance.




Accumulator, by a flooding rise, are you refering to letting an open ended hose run across the surface? When doing this what should I look for to indicate no oils left on the surface?



Yeah, that`s it. The water will be less likely to form the usual tight/uniform/tiny beading that makes ya :think:




Also, if a product is hard to clean out of pads is that any kind of indication of heavy fillers and oils? These products, new formula Optimum Compoound II and Optimum Polish II, seemed kind of hard to clean out of basic LC foam cutting pads



I don`t think that necessarilly means "fillers!" but yeah, some of my Optimum stuff is really hard to clean out too.

[Brad B]

When testing I think it is also a good idea to do a visual reflection test as well to see if there has been any change in the surface. I like to use a metal rule with text and markings placed at a set distance from the surface so you can compare sharpness. Place this over two test panel sections or more at once. And always have a control test panel that remains untouched.

[lostdaytomorrow]

Using reflections is always a great little trick!