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togwt
07-29-2011, 05:33 AM
Surface Contaminants



Surface contamination are subjected to a myriad of potential contamination sources that can be categorized based the typical size of the particles and what they are made of, they are either organic such as bird excrement, honeydew and bug carcasses or inorganic such as brake dust, bituminous asphalt, etc .



Be cognizant that there are two types of paint contamination, above surface; Bituminous Asphalt (tar), Industrial Fallout, Tree resin (sap) and etc) which should be removed with detailers clay and / or a chemical paint cleaner and ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) which should be removed with a decontamination product



Sintered ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) penetrate the paint surface and if not removed will act as a conduit to the paint matrix system. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started, often showing ‘rust spots’ (blooming) on the paint surface, light colours tend show the necessity of decontamination more that darker colours. I am referring to those small brown ferric oxides (rust spots) that just seem to get larger and larger.



An untimely lawn sprinkler, a springtime shower, or spots that remained after washing, the minerals are white calcium/sodium deposits that are alkaline-based, especially from hard water. If left on the vehicle paint surface they act the same way as acid rain in that they will etch the paint film surface.

Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface.



Sintered ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) penetrate the paint surface and if not removed will act as a conduit to the paint matrix system. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started, often showing ‘rust spots’ (blooming) on the paint surface, light colours tend show the necessity of decontamination more that darker colours. I am referring to those small brown ferric oxides (rust spots) that just seem to get larger and larger.



The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms) This is most noticeable on light colored paint surfaces (especially white)



Surface



Industrial Fallout [: simply a by- product of manufacturing, traffic, and factory pollution. These airborne particles settle on your paints surface causing contamination.]



Environmental Stains [: insect stains, bird droppings, tree sap, and acid rain spots are amongst the contaminants detailing clay will remove. [1]



Sub-surface



Rail Dust [: (ferrous oxide FeO) from the day a new car is shipped its surface is under attack. The railcar its sitting is showered with airborne metal particles from the rails. These ferrous metal particles embed themselves into the paint and will eventually oxidize and form rust corrosion under the clear coat]



Brake Dust [: sintered ferrous oxide FeO) particles from your own and passing vehicles will also get embedded in your paint.]



Automotive paint systems are porous; when you add water and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly (the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated). The paint surface should be periodically neutralized / decontaminated, i.e. once every two years (See also Reactivity)



The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects.



Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination



Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad.



a) Detailer`s clay - removes paint surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle, leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the below surface particulates act as a conduit and the corrosion process is started.



Detailer’s clay is essentially a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable polymer and was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint.



Detailer’s clay was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. It gained its reputation as a decontamination method because it was mistakenly believed that it ‘pulled’ brake / rail dust iron particulates from the paint surface. Detailer’s clay contains abrasives that will only shear any brake dust particles leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started.

.

b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.



Detailers Clay



Detailer’s clay is made from Polybutene; it was originally invented and patented in Japan in 1987. Tadao Kadate is generally acknowledged as the inventor of automotive clay resin for the removal of paint over-spray. It is formulated with mild abrasives, a common misconception about using detailer’s clay is that it pulls contaminants from the paint, and if this were true there would be no need for it to be abrasive. Be cognizant the using a clay bar can actually add minor imperfections in your paint so it`s always best to follow up with a polish to remove any clay induced micro-marring.



First used by Japanese auto manufacturers on vehicle production lines and then auto body repair shops, the technology was passed on to the US market in the late ‘90’s. Detailer`s clay is now routinely used by OEM`s, professional detailer`s, vehicle auctions and body shops as a simple, safe way to remove paint over-spray, tree sap and industrial fallout from both vehicle paint and chrome and glass surfaces



Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there are still contaminants stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Road film, oil, tar, grease, water spots and other environmental contaminants bond to the paint and glass surfaces and are difficult to remove. Glass and especially the windshield and rear window on trucks and SUVs are prone to these surface contaminants.



Corrosion



Detailer`s clay and decontamination are two different processes. The abrasives `shear` the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage



While clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic particle and continue the corrosion process



Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.



The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms)



Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV-A and B) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.



Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new vehicles.



Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage



Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion



Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage



Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system



Signs of Paint Surface Contamination



• Dark coloured specks

• Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks

• Yellow stains

• Small metal coloured flecks

• Rough texture

• ‘Water spots’ or marks

• Surface etching

• Oxidation

• Paint ‘stains



In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicle and its resale value








http://www.autopia.org/forum/welcome-greeting-center/] ( [url) Authors Profile [/url]

C. Charles Hahn
07-29-2011, 12:50 PM
Great article... but arguably washing IS a form of decontamination....

togwt
07-30-2011, 04:10 AM
Washing is a form of surface decontamination, dependent upon what you use in it and what you are trying to remove. The same could be said of a chemical paint cleaner.

Corners
08-24-2012, 08:27 PM
Surface Contaminants



Surface contamination are subjected to a myriad of potential contamination sources that can be categorized based the typical size of the particles and what they are made of, they are either organic such as bird excrement, honeydew and bug carcasses or inorganic such as brake dust, bituminous asphalt, etc .



Be cognizant that there are two types of paint contamination, above surface; Bituminous Asphalt (tar), Industrial Fallout, Tree resin (sap) and etc) which should be removed with detailers clay and / or a chemical paint cleaner and ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) which should be removed with a decontamination product



Sintered ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) penetrate the paint surface and if not removed will act as a conduit to the paint matrix system. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started, often showing ‘rust spots’ (blooming) on the paint surface, light colours tend show the necessity of decontamination more that darker colours. I am referring to those small brown ferric oxides (rust spots) that just seem to get larger and larger.



An untimely lawn sprinkler, a springtime shower, or spots that remained after washing, the minerals are white calcium/sodium deposits that are alkaline-based, especially from hard water. If left on the vehicle paint surface they act the same way as acid rain in that they will etch the paint film surface.

Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface.



Sintered ferrous oxide particles (brake / rail dust) penetrate the paint surface and if not removed will act as a conduit to the paint matrix system. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started, often showing ‘rust spots’ (blooming) on the paint surface, light colours tend show the necessity of decontamination more that darker colours. I am referring to those small brown ferric oxides (rust spots) that just seem to get larger and larger.



The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms) This is most noticeable on light colored paint surfaces (especially white)



Surface



Industrial Fallout [: simply a by- product of manufacturing, traffic, and factory pollution. These airborne particles settle on your paints surface causing contamination.]



Environmental Stains [: insect stains, bird droppings, tree sap, and acid rain spots are amongst the contaminants detailing clay will remove. [1]



Sub-surface



Rail Dust [: (ferrous oxide FeO) from the day a new car is shipped its surface is under attack. The railcar its sitting is showered with airborne metal particles from the rails. These ferrous metal particles embed themselves into the paint and will eventually oxidize and form rust corrosion under the clear coat]



Brake Dust [: sintered ferrous oxide FeO) particles from your own and passing vehicles will also get embedded in your paint.]



Automotive paint systems are porous; when you add water and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly (the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated). The paint surface should be periodically neutralized / decontaminated, i.e. once every two years (See also Reactivity)



The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects.



Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination



Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad.



a) Detailer`s clay - removes paint surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle, leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the below surface particulates act as a conduit and the corrosion process is started.



Detailer’s clay is essentially a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable polymer and was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint.



Detailer’s clay was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. It gained its reputation as a decontamination method because it was mistakenly believed that it ‘pulled’ brake / rail dust iron particulates from the paint surface. Detailer’s clay contains abrasives that will only shear any brake dust particles leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started.

.

b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.



Detailers Clay



Detailer’s clay is made from Polybutene; it was originally invented and patented in Japan in 1987. Tadao Kadate is generally acknowledged as the inventor of automotive clay resin for the removal of paint over-spray. It is formulated with mild abrasives, a common misconception about using detailer’s clay is that it pulls contaminants from the paint, and if this were true there would be no need for it to be abrasive. Be cognizant the using a clay bar can actually add minor imperfections in your paint so it`s always best to follow up with a polish to remove any clay induced micro-marring.



First used by Japanese auto manufacturers on vehicle production lines and then auto body repair shops, the technology was passed on to the US market in the late ‘90’s. Detailer`s clay is now routinely used by OEM`s, professional detailer`s, vehicle auctions and body shops as a simple, safe way to remove paint over-spray, tree sap and industrial fallout from both vehicle paint and chrome and glass surfaces



Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there are still contaminants stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Road film, oil, tar, grease, water spots and other environmental contaminants bond to the paint and glass surfaces and are difficult to remove. Glass and especially the windshield and rear window on trucks and SUVs are prone to these surface contaminants.



Corrosion



Detailer`s clay and decontamination are two different processes. The abrasives `shear` the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage



While clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic particle and continue the corrosion process



Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.



The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms)



Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV-A and B) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic. During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.



Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new vehicles.



Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage



Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion



Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage



Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system



Signs of Paint Surface Contamination



• Dark coloured specks

• Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks

• Yellow stains

• Small metal coloured flecks

• Rough texture

• ‘Water spots’ or marks

• Surface etching

• Oxidation

• Paint ‘stains



In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicle and its resale value








http://www.autopia.org/forum/welcome-greeting-center/] ( [url) Authors Profile [/url]







WOW! What an absolute, fantastic, logical article. I have been detailing for some time and never, never have I read such an informative article. From this article I have learned more in the short time frame it took me to read it than any other article that covers claying. It goes without saying that I not only saved this to my computer but printed it off for future reading if I go to a fellow detailers house. This information, combined with ALL the products (which I have to learn about) has made me reconsider going back to the detailing company and their forum that I have been with for over two years. I "WILL" be purchasing all my products from this site but first I need to get the basics down concerning which of your products do what and are the best. So I will be needing some assistance with this. I am basing all of what I said just by (again) reading this article. Somebody on this site knows what they are talking about because I often wondered, once you knock off the rail or brake dust, how does one get it "completely" out of the paint. "NOW" I know. However, I have yet to find what is mentioned in the article on this site, which is, what is a Paint decontamination system and where does one purchase it? If that`s what it takes to ensure my new Mercedes and RAM diesel`s paint is totally decontaminated then this is the system I NEED. Within reason, money is no problem. In the two years I`ve been with this other company, I have spent well over $5,000+ on their products and equipment. Yes, they sell their clay bars but in no way do they go into such fantastic detail as this article does.



I have found a "New Home."

Ron Ketcham
08-24-2012, 08:59 PM
Only one company, who developed and produces a true decontamination system that is not only tested, approved, recommended, in many cases, "reguired" is the ValuGard ABC system.



In the past there was another company who produced a similar system, and I understand still does, Finish Kare Products.



However, it is no longer accepted by the vehicle manufacturers, so most, if not, all of it`s documentation is no longer in effect.



This system is in many vehicle companies Technical Service Bulletins issued to their dealership, and required for warranty repairs, but is also "privated labeled" for companies such as Ford Motor Co., Chyrsler Canada.



You may read many of the TSB`s, and other documents on ValuGard.net.



Not all vehicle manufacturer`s TSB`s, Service Advisories, are shown on the site due to requests by some manufacturers.



The site has TSB`s, etc from Hyundai, Nissan, etc as well.



Please note that very few chemical companies have such documentation from vehicle manufacturers available, usually due to their never having their products or such tested and accepted by the manufacturers.



In addition, there is a Training Video for learning how to mix, use, etc the system on the site.



Grumpy

Accumulator
08-25-2012, 03:20 PM
corners- Check my response to your other thread for details on the folks that Ron Ketcham is referring to.

togwt
08-26-2012, 04:26 AM
As for the products mentioned, check out the various forum sponsors or Google the product names cited. In the interest of full disclosure, I am in no way affiliated with, employed by, have any vested interest, or in any way receive compensation from the sale or distribution of any of the product lines reviewed or the company that manufactures or markets it. No endorsement of companies or their products mentioned is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar companies or their products if they are omitted.





See also http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141242-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html



http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/136393-environmental-damage.html#



I hope the information in this article is of some help to you. If you have any further questions please let me know

Corners
08-26-2012, 07:21 PM
Tks but being brand new to this forum, where in the heck do I find that? Your other thread I mean. :>)

Ron Ketcham
08-26-2012, 08:41 PM
Click on the two links in the thread by TOWGT, IE, Jon, and it will lead you to some real information.

Grumpy

Accumulator
08-27-2012, 11:56 AM
Tks but being brand new to this forum, where in the heck do I find that? Your other thread I mean. :>)



You asked about this in another thread too, right? I meant that one...gimme a minute and we`ll see if my wimpy cyber-fu can find it....



Eh, I`m having trouble linking to it (told ya my cyber-fu isn`t so hot... :o ). It`s the thread where I replied to your very first post here at Autopia.



Ah, OK....got it, click here- http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/111603-fk-decontamination-kit-2.html#post1512277