New User, New Car, Specific Questions

[Rydogg]

Hey guys, this is my first post here on the forums. I have been reading through for the last few days, gathering some great information. However I have a few specific areas I was unable to find solid answers on. Ill try to be as clear and to the point as possible.



To start, I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE Turbo which is BLACK.

The paint job is fantastic, and the body lines really show of it`s shine.



My intent: To have a showroom quality finish. Labor is no concern, I am willing to devote as much time as necessary, and don`t want to take any shortcuts.



My plan: Wash, Clay, Seal the Paint, Wax.



1a) What paint sealer is recommended?

1b) How soon can I apply the wax after using the paint sealer?





2) Considering my desires, which pads should I buy for the Porter Cable 7424XP? I see there are various wax application pads available, I would assume I don`t need anything abrasive since I`m not correcting any swirls, scratches.



In my experience with sanding/painting, I use a technique where I paint, then sand, and progressively use a finer grit paper to produce a glossy finish. Is there a similar process in waxing/buffing?



3) Is there one buffing pad to rule them all? I have read differing recommendations regarding what to buff with.





I apologize in advance is these questions have been answered previously, and thank anyone who can provide some insight on these questions.

[Accumulator]

Hey guys, this is my first post here on the forums. I have been reading through for the last few days, gathering some great information. However I have a few specific areas I was unable to find solid answers on. Ill try to be as clear and to the point as possible.



To start, I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE Turbo which is BLACK.

The paint job is fantastic, and the body lines really show of it`s shine.



My intent: To have a showroom quality finish. Labor is no concern, I am willing to devote as much time as necessary, and don`t want to take any shortcuts...



IMO the primary challenge will be to *keep* the finish OK (i.e., marrng free). One "regular car wash" and all the polishing/etc. will be for naught. But anyhow..




My plan: Wash, Clay, Seal the Paint, Wax.



Are you sure you want to use both a sealant and a wax rather than one or the other? I`d rather just do one myself.


1a) What paint sealer is recommended?



What`s the objective/goal? Protection, slickness, dirt-shedding, looks, durability?




1b) How soon can I apply the wax after using the paint sealer?



As soon as the sealant has cured, usually about 24 hours.




2) Considering my desires, which pads should I buy for the Porter Cable 7424XP? I see there are various wax application pads available, I would assume I don`t need anything abrasive since I`m not correcting any swirls, scratches.



Are you really sure it doesn`t need correction? I can just about count on one hand the brand-new black cars I`ve seen that didn`t already have marring by the time a customer took delivery.



Do you already have the PC or might you be open to considering the Griot`s Garage 6" polisher instead?



For no-cut waxing/sealing pads, I`d look into the Gold waxing pad from Lake Country, though also like the red Griot`s waxing pad.


In my experience with sanding/painting, I use a technique where I paint, then sand, and progressively use a finer grit paper to produce a glossy finish. Is there a similar process in waxing/buffing?



There is with abrasive polishing (is that what you mean by "buffing"?), at least if your initial step is too aggressive to leave a nice finish. If you only do a very gentle polishing you can go straight to your LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., wax or sealant).



Waxing is a nonabrasive process, so there`s no "stepping down" of this type involved.




3) Is there one buffing pad to rule them all? I have read differing recommendations regarding what to buff with.



Depends what you mean by "buffing", no way to recommend something without knowing the intended purpose.



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia! Sorry I couldn`t give better answers, but I really do need to know more before I can do that.

[Scottwax]

Double check the whole car in the sun to make sure there isn`t any marring or swirls you need to take care of prior to sealing.



I would invest in a good DA polisher and an assortment of pads and polishes. Right now you shouldn`t need anything aggressive assuming the paint is swirl and mar free. If you do a good job washing the car without marring it up, you might not need anything aggressive for a while.



I wouldn`t get caught up in putting wax over a sealant, find a product that gives you the look you want and use it as often as needed.

[Rydogg]

@Accumulator: Yes I would like to seal it to give it added protection underneath the wax.

[Rydogg]

@Accumulator: I would like to use the paint sealer to give the finish an additional layer of protection underneath the wax.

The goal is to have a "showroom" finish, deep gloss, depth, etc. Surprisingly, the paint is almost perfect. I gave it the plastic bag test to feel for bumps, imperfections, and found very little. There are no swirls, scratches yet either. I still plan to clay to ensure I have it as close to perfect as possible. When I say "buffing" I`m referring to the wax removal, shining step, where people tend to use wool or microfiber.

[SpoolinNoMore]

I wouldn`t use wool to "buff" off your wax, microfiber is the current popular medium of removing wax/LSP. Claying won`t give you much/any surface correction FYI, the most correction I`ve ever received from clay is light water spots. The clay process is meant for surface decontamination to prep for polishing/reapplying an LSP.

[Rydogg]

I think I`m going to go with the Zaino kit for now, and see how that turns out. I have heard great reviews on it, once from Scottwax here. Can`t I apply a wax layer on top of the finished Zaino layer?

[imported_animes2k]

You could, but that would prevent you from layering additional coats of Zaino, which is where it really shines, imo. And honestly, you won`t see much difference. I say stick with a pure Zaino routine if that`s the LSP you go with. Boost with Z-8 after washes.

[row012]

Apply zaino with a polisher and buffing pads(with 0% cut) IMO as if your trying to get 2-4 coats on by hand, its a bit of work. Plus you want to put on as least as possible hence why using a pad will make that easier.

[Thomas Dekany]

Zaino is a good choice, make sure to use at least ZAIO to "polish" your new car. That is where most of the "look" comes from. m2c



BTW, did you check the paint in the sun?

[Accumulator]

@Accumulator: I would like to use the paint sealer to give the finish an additional layer of protection underneath the wax...



IMO it`s debatable whether having the sealant under the wax really adds more protection, at least unless you`re using some "beauty wax". IIRC, Zaino`s Z5 looks a little bit more "wax like" than their other stuff, maybe that`s what you`d like.




The goal is to have a "showroom" finish, deep gloss, depth, etc. Surprisingly, the paint is almost perfect. I gave it the plastic bag test to feel for bumps, imperfections, and found very little. There are no swirls, scratches yet either. I still plan to clay to ensure I have it as close to perfect as possible...



Just be very careful to *NOT* instill some marring when you clay. Yeah, I know..but it does happen.




When I say "buffing" I`m referring to the wax removal, shining step, where people tend to use wool or microfiber.



As SpoolinNoMore pointed out, DO NOT USE WOOL to buff off anything; it`d mar up the paint something awful. Stick with very soft (high grade) microfiber ("MF").