1986 Blue Volvo 240 - Needs Some Help - Product and Technique Ideas

[760turbo]

Hi All: I would appreciate your ideas on how to rejuvenate the blue paint on my recently purchased 1986 Volvo 240 (about 40k miles). I just have exterior shots right now, and will post later for interior ideas (which is excellent).



The paint is in ok shape, generally-dull/tired looking. Not as shiny now as these earlier pics, has been neglected due to car sitting garaged for quite a while, and outside (Canada winter) recently. Some oxidization as pics show, and a few rock pits along leading edge of hood.



I am a weekend fixer-upper with PC7424 and mix of pads and product but have not had much time to try products or practice on my other vehicles. Would appreciate ideas on cleaning/preserving rubber moulding and black trim areas too. Thanks very much for everyones thoughts!



I intend to drop the wheels/covers and put on allow wheels and better tires from a 940 I used to own.



http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k500/v240swede/86240-4.jpg



http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k500/v240swede/86240-2.jpg

[Accumulator]

760turbo- Welcome to Autopia!



OMG, that car could be the sedan-twin of the 245 wagon I had! Mine was a very low-mile car too, but not *THAT* low (gave mine to my niece-in-law, who simply loves it). Heh heh, I can highly recommend high performance stuff from IPD ;) With a LSD and Blizzaks those cars are *super* in the winter too, gave my Quattros a run for their money! As you can tell, I really, *REALLY* liked that car (at least after I got it modified).



Check the floorpans and make sure you don`t have rust issues starting. It`s fixable, but best to catch it early.



The single stage paint on those is nice and tough, and pretty thick too. It`s not all that hard, so you won`t need anythig awfully aggressive. Plus, I`d rather see you keep the paint thick, rather than polishing away a lot of it in an effort to attain perfection.



You might want to try Meguiar`s #80 Speed Glaze. It cleans oxidation OK and does some pretty gentle abrasion. You can always get more aggressive later if necessary.



Note that if you go through the paint to primer it`ll actually still hold up very well. At least it will as long as you keep it waxed. Even the *primer* is tough stuff!



I`d see if Klasse All In One will clean up the rubber and exterior plastic to your satisfaction. It worked well on mine (which was in "old lady owner" condition when I got it). That rubber is tough stuff just like everything else on the car.



After the #80, I`d just use Collinite wax (worked super for me). You can apply their 845 Insulator Wax on both the paint and the rubber. Their 476S paste wax *can* also be used on rubber as well as paint (sounds crazy, but I did it for years) but I think that`s something you might not oughta try.



SO.....I`d clay the car, then use M80 on the paint. Use KAIO on the rubber. Collinite 845 on everything. Then, if you feel inclined, Collinite 476S on the paint/chrome/brightwork.



I know that "wax on the rubber" sounds nutty, but it really does work great. I left my 245 outside 24/7 yet it remained in near-showcar condition.



The one thing that seemed fragile was the black painted trim pieces at the bottom of the side glass. Not sure if your car has that or whether it was just a wagon-thing. THAT stuff wanted to oxidize all the time (given sun exposure) so you might want to seal that up with some good synthetic if you have it and the Collinite doesn`t protect it to your satisfaction. I just redid the Collinite now and then, and that same regimen works fine for the current owner (who lives in Memphis, where it`s *hot*).

[AcrylicWayne]

As a long-time Saab owner, I would agree that the paint jobs on these older Swedish cars are much better than today`s finishes. Would agree with the above post regarding claying a surface. It really does make a great deal of difference, especially if restoring an older painted surface.



While I may be slightly biased, would suggest checking out videos on You Tube of Acrylic-Werks Polish. It can be used on every surface of that car, from the body to the headlights and all of the hard plastic and rubber seals. (there is even one where the headlamps are restored on an older-model Volvo)

[Accumulator]

AcrylicWayne- Pardon my memory lapse, but is that the stuff that was demonstrated on the GM SUV`s "D" pillar in another thread?

[AcrylicWayne]

I think that is the one. I didn`t post it, but if it was the one using Acrylic-Werks, that is correct. Others showing other applications are on You Tube.



The only surface it has not been effective on was the large brass bell on the USS Wisconsin battleship. Last year, the city of Norfolk, VA purchased a case of this product as they were cleaning and trying to restore parts of the battleship. We tried it on the bell and it was only minimally effective. I think if they cleaned it with some type of "Brasso" product and then used the polish to protect, it would be effective. Fortunately, I don`t think many automobiles have brass bells that need to be restored.

[Accumulator]

I think that is the one. I didn`t post it, but if it was the one using Acrylic-Werks, that is correct. Others showing other applications are on You Tube...



Yeah, pretty sure it must be the same stuff. Looked impressive.

[760turbo]

Thanks for the ideas so far. Regarding the Acrylic-Werks, comments sounds somewhat promotional...I would like to know how it holds up over the longer term. For example, how does it look after 6 months of weather and washes?



I looked at some of the videos on YouTube and a large number of products will take off oxidization and leave some sheen - but the value of the product lies (I believe) in how long it lasts and protects on the material where it is applied. I`m also wary of products that suggest they can improve a wide variety of substrates (vinyl, rubber, metals, paints). I will try to post some dirty engine bay pics shortly for input too. Thanks all.

[AcrylicWayne]

760Turbo-



Totally understand where you are coming from. So many products have promised so much over the years that it is hard to swallow another claim that "seems to good to be true".

I can personally tell you that I have cleaned a small square on a Ford Expedition that belonged to a friend who lived in an apartment. (no garage) A year later, with the car fully exposed to the elements, you could still clearly see the area I had restored. We did a couple of patches on a boat (yes, totally different surface) that was at a fiberglass shop being restored. We went back this year and the areas we treated are, again, as polished as the day we left. You can see photos of both on the Acrylic-Werks Facebook page. If you want to speak with the owner of the fiberglass shop, PM and I`ll send you his name & number.

My personal car is a 2003 Saab 9-3. I last did a full restoration (clay bar and AW) during a weekend car show in Ocean City, MD in Oct. 2009. I have not had to polish it since and would be more than happy to show you current pictures. The only thing I`ve done is washed it with water and a couple of tablespoons of AW. Pillars are still polished enough for a reflection and the black body looks years younger than it is. BTW, also cleaned parts of my engine with the stuff also.



Again, I can understand your reluctance to believe this product works as well as I claim, but I`m not some charlatan offering some temporary fix that will look shiney for a week and then fade. That is what makes this product different from most on the market. It restores rather than just plain shine, it is not affected by sun (which is what causes most products to fail...in fact, we encourage you to put it on in direct sunlight), and yes, it does work on a variety of surfaces with no issues to adjoining material, regardless of what it is.



PM me if you want additional pictures.

[Don]

I`m surprised no one mentioned using Meguiar`s #7. Here`s an article by Mike Phillips about restoring old SS paint using #7, it`s a LOOONG read but very informative.

Restoring Single Stage Paint (http://www.autotraderclassics.com/car-article/Restoring+Single+Stage+Paint%3A+Part+1-65310.xhtml?conversationId=352994)

[760turbo]

I`m surprised no one mentioned using Meguiar`s #7. Here`s an article by Mike Phillips about restoring old SS paint using #7, it`s a LOOONG read but very informative.

Restoring Single Stage Paint (http://www.autotraderclassics.com/car-article/Restoring+Single+Stage+Paint%3A+Part+1-65310.xhtml?conversationId=352994)



Thanks for the link Don M, that is a very interesting and detailed article, with lots of great pics to add to the extensive commentary!

[Accumulator]

I`m surprised no one mentioned using Meguiar`s #7. Here`s an article by Mike Phillips about restoring old SS paint using #7, it`s a LOOONG read but very informative.

Restoring Single Stage Paint (http://www.autotraderclassics.com/car-article/Restoring+Single+Stage+Paint%3A+Part+1-65310.xhtml?conversationId=352994)



Regulars here know how Mike and I are generally of one mind when it comes to single stage (and I`ve used gallons of M07 ;) ). But on the Volvo I don`t find the M07 to be either necessary or even desirable. Leaving aside the user-friendliness (or lack thereof!) issue, that particular paint just doesn`t seem to benefit from the Trade Secret Oils as much as many (especially older) single stages do for some reason.



I`m not saying to go with Zaino or the Klasse twins, but I wouldn`y treat the Volvo paint the same way I would, say... `70s single stage. It seems more like the single stage on my `85 Jag or the `84 RX-7; "later" single stages seem to be, uhm... different. Less porous for one thing and that might be significant.



This sure isn`t an :argue but rather just how things went on my car with the identical paint. Heh heh, well...identical except for its condition; mine started out a whole lot more oxidized (and trashed in general) than that car appears to be!

[Don]

This sure isn`t an :argue but rather just how things went on my car with the identical paint.



Never thought it was, just brainstorming and throwing out ideas.

[Accumulator]

Never thought it was, just brainstorming and throwing out ideas.



OK, roger that, glad I didn`t come across wrong. Normally yeah, I`d be all about Mike`s usual regimen for single stage. And the more people who read that article of his the better :xyxthumbs