Using a buffer to apply wax?

[apoirier594]

I bought a cheaper random orbital buffer today cause my truck is black and has swirl marks. Well I used some ultimate compound to try to take them out and worked, but only did 2sq. ft. b/c I was in sun and it dries to fast.



So I just waxed it, I used the buffer, I didn`t notice anything really different except for the fact that I didn`t have to use as much wax, it really used every drop as far as it could go. I just used a hand microfiber cloth to clean the wax off tho.



My question is does using a buffer to apply wax give any better results than by hand? I have always waxed by hand(only 3 times, haven`t been into detailing to long, cause I am 16 and had my truck for less than a half year). Or should I just use the hand applicator pads to apply the wax? Time seemed about the same since I did a few passes..

[Street5927]

Keeping in mind, a random orbital is "supposed" to mimic hand movements, only at a faster and less fatiguing way. IMO, for the application of wax only, the only advantage to this is that you won`t get as tired and have a sore hand, wrist, arm and shoulder.

[BigAl3]

applying a wax/sealant by hand or DA is personal preference. the nice thing about using the DA is you`re going to use less and it will evenly distribute the product through the whole face of the pad onto the finish. of course there are some areas where you will have to apply by hand, but you already knew that. if you don`t own a quality DA, look into getting one and there are several to choose from (PC7424XP, Griots 6" Random Orbital, Meguiars G110v2), you won`t regret it...



check this thread out...

How to apply a very thin coat of wax with a G110v2 (http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46754&highlight)

[apoirier594]

Thanks guys, and sorry for such a "newb" question.

Still kind wondering if it works the wax in better tho, so the only pro I see is it allows me to use less wax. As far as fatigue goes, it seems about the same as me, cause I am also having to hold the DA the whole time.



I am job hunting right now(only 16) once I get a job I do really want to get that Meguiars DA.



And I`m about to read that thread recommendation, just glanced over it and noticed they are using the same wax I do.

:)

[Accumulator]

Thanks guys, and sorry for such a "newb" question.

Still kind wondering if it works the wax in better tho, so the only pro I see is it allows me to use less wax...



Welcome to Autopia!



If the somewhat different motions involved (holding and moving a buffer is, IMO, different from gripping and moving a pad), and the thinner application aren`t any big deal to you, then I`d just do whichever you prefer. Heh heh, I guess I`d say to just do whichever you prefer anyhow!



The only way I get noticeably better results from machine application is when I do a "pseudo spitshine", spritzing some QD on the panel prior to using the buffer to apply the wax and then working the wax (with the buffer) until it`s almost completely gone. This works best with certain waxes (e.g., Meguiar`s old #16 is great for this) and can sometimes backfire on you, resulting in a *REALLY* hard to remove residue that`ll drive you nuts.

[sparklingdetail]

apoirier594



Definitely, the buffer gives you better result than hand but you need to familiarize yourself with it otherwise you may damage to your car. So, educate yourself by attending detailing seminar and you could find it on Google by searching "auto detailing seminar". :smile1:



Below are the benefits to use buffer:



Easily remove excessive paint than by hand

Ultimate shine to car surface

Eliminate most of all damages

Required less chemical compare to hand

[VitoB]

apoirier594



Definitely, the buffer gives you better result than hand but you need to familiarize yourself with it otherwise you may damage to your car. So, educate yourself by attending detailing seminar and you could find it on Google by searching "auto detailing seminar". :smile1:



Below are the benefits to use buffer:



Easily remove excessive paint than by hand

Ultimate shine to car surface

Eliminate most of all damages

Required less chemical compare to hand





Waxing does not remove surface imperfections, it`s only a layer of protection. What does "eliminate most of all damages" mean? Polishing and waxing are not the same thing. This is exactly the type of information that misleads people.

[sparklingdetail]

Waxing does not remove surface imperfections, it`s only a layer of protection. What does "eliminate most of all damages" mean? Polishing and waxing are not the same thing. This is exactly the type of information that misleads people.



Hi 96Lude,



I really appreciate you purpose to don`t mislead the people but I need to clarify that I didn`t it.



Yes, dude waxing and polishing are not the same thing. :wave: I also know that waxing is a layer of protection. Apart from this, it can also be used for:



Restoring shine and gloss of paint as it removes grime, dirt and dust

Clean car easily by preventing road grime, surrounding contaminant

Waxing bring back normal color and shine by restoring paint that is damage from sun stroke and engine head

Decrease the chances of forming water spots on car body as it prevents water to enter on the surface



For your knowledge, I didn`t mention waxing and polishing word in my previous comment just showed benefits of buffer. Hopes, I didn`t hurt you.:smile:

[VitoB]

Restoring shine and gloss of paint as it removes grime, dirt and dust



Wrong. Washing, claying and polishing the paint will remove dirt, grime etc.



Clean car easily by preventing road grime, surrounding contaminant



Yes a waxed car is easier to maintain, I will agree with you on that. Not sure what you mean by preventing road grime, the car will still accumulate dirt on it, even if it has been waxed.



Waxing bring back normal color and shine by restoring paint that is damage from sun stroke and engine head



Wrong again. Polishing brings back the color and shine. Not sure what you mean by "engine head." The heat produced by the engine that can affect the paint on the hood?



Decrease the chances of forming water spots on car body as it prevents water to enter on the surface



To some extent, it will definitely help, however more severe water spots will still penetrate the wax and can etch the clear coat



If you are speaking of a rotary polisher, it is not meant for applying wax. This is typical of the poor work done by car dealerships that want to work quickly, and you will only leave holograms on the surface. A polisher like the PC is another story, you will not leave holograms if you apply wax with it.



You claim to know what waxing and polishing are, however by reading your responses, I believe you have a lot more research to do.

[carlsson]

Sure you can apply wax with a buffer. Just don`t take too long applying or you`ll have a heck of a time on removal, or final wipe off. Just do a section at a time, half of the hood, half of the roof, etc. I do this using my Cyclo w/white pads and Collinite 845. Great results. I feel its quicker and more thorough than working by hand. Remember, you`re putting down wax, not polish, so work quickly and you won`t have a problem.

[Accumulator]

Sure you can apply wax with a buffer. Just don`t take too long applying or you`ll have a heck of a time on removal, or final wipe off. Just do a section at a time, half of the hood, half of the roof, etc. I do this using my Cyclo w/white pads and Collinite 845..



Here`s a flip-side to the above (not intended as an :argue so I hope it doesn`t come across that way)...I usually let the wax set up while I do the whole car unless I`m doing the psuedo-spitshine thing. Since you mentioned the product (and even the same polisher), for instance with 845 I applied to the whole vehicle via Cyclo/white, then did the tight spots by hand, and then went to the house for a MetRx, came back out and messed around for a while, and then *finally* buffed it off. No problems at all. But I oughta point out that I did a very thin, and very gentle application too.



I`ve sorta been all about doing my LSPs that way ever since Mike Phillips challenged me to try it with Souveran (of all things!) and it worked so well I`ve been doing it that way ever since.



Again, I`m not :nono or :argue what Carlsson posted, and I`m sure not saying to "do it my way!". And I do work section-by-section when doing any variation of spit-shining. Just mentioning all this so people can see how YMMV can apply to the topic.



Guess one oughta try the "let it sit" on one section to see if it`s gonna work for them though...I`d sure hate for somebody to do the whole car on my say-so and then have some huge PIA!



Oh, and speaking of the Cyclo.. I find it can get a little aggressive when applying wax. Gotta take a *little* care not to a) over-work the product and/or b) have a detrimental effect on previously applied stuff (old coat of wax, glaze, stuff like that). I still love those machines though...you ever find it a bit aggressive in this regard Carlsson, or is it just me?



I also *LOVE* buffing LSPs off via Cyclo, with (plenty of) the suede-style MF bonnets that TOL and others offer.

[carlsson]

No issues– everyone experiences something a bit different, even with the same products, technique, etc. I found that the 845 dries a little hard if I let it sit very long (more than 5-6 minutes, however, this does depend on the weather of course. But cold and windy turns it to cement as fast as blazing sun). So I prefer not to do the whole vehicle, especially my daily, which is an `07 F-150. Maybe if I was to do a Smart Fortwo or similar than I would go ahead and do the whole thing (-_^)

[apoirier594]

I am not sure exactly what everyone was going back and forth about wax and polish, but this is how I have understood it:

-Wash(remove dirt, etc)

-Clay(tree sap, fallout, etc)

-Polish(to take out swirls and light scratches)

-Pure Polish(to give extra shine)

-Wax(to protect and give that little bit of a brilliance look)



I have done all but remove swirls and pure polish. I want to buy a real DA like a PC in a few month around summer to remove all my swirls. I just bought Meg. 7 show car glaze, but applied Wax a week ago, so I`ll clay bar in a month then add the glaze, then wax.



And the cheap buffer I will be using, also for wax is a DA so I don`t think it should leave any holograms.



THANKS for all the responses.



Also..I am talking about my F-150, I use the Meg. NXT 2.0 and do the whole truck then get done in 20 or a bit more. The longer the NXT sits the easier it comes off. So I apply to whole truck then use a MF to wipe off.

[Accumulator]

I am not sure exactly what everyone was going back and forth about wax and polish, but this is how I have understood it:

-Wash(remove dirt, etc)

-Clay(tree sap, fallout, etc)

-Polish(to take out swirls and light scratches)

-Pure Polish(to give extra shine)

-Wax(to protect and give that little bit of a brilliance look)



Yeah, things got a little off-track there. But you have it right. The pure polish step is a personal preference, some people find it beneficial, others don`t.


I have done all but remove swirls and pure polish. I want to buy a real DA like a PC in a few month around summer to remove all my swirls. I just bought Meg. 7 show car glaze, but applied Wax a week ago, so I`ll clay bar in a month then add the glaze, then wax.



You might want to look up Mike Phillips`s totorial on how to use M07. It can be a bit of a PIA if you don`t get it right.
And the cheap buffer I will be using, also for wax is a DA so I don`t think it should leave any holograms.



OK, but the M07 can leave what I call "pseudo holograms" as it`s very oily. I wouldn`t worry *too* much about it especially since you`ll be using the NXT afterwards (it can help "even out" such stuff and "leech out and help remove" some excess oils).
Also..I am talking about my F-150, I use the Meg. NXT 2.0 and do the whole truck then get done in 20 or a bit more. The longer the NXT sits the easier it comes off. So I apply to whole truck then use a MF to wipe off.



That`s a pretty big vehicle...I myself wouldn`t use the M07 on it (gee, "now you tell me"...you just bought it, huh?) but rather something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish (which works well with NXT IME).

[apoirier594]

[COLOR="navy"]That`s a pretty big vehicle...I myself wouldn`t use the M07 on it (gee, "now you tell me"...you just bought it, huh?) but rather something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish (which works well with NXT IME).



Well actually I haven`t opened or obviously use the No.7

I just waxed her a week ago and wanted to clay in a month before I applied the No. 7. So is the No.7 a PITA to wipe off? I have heard about that on a review, and I don`t have a garage so I guess I would have to do it at night when its cool(don`t worry my neighbors already think I have OCD cause of my truck. lol)



So I might be able to take it back since I haven`t opened the sea and still have the receipt. What other pure polish would you recommend?