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PointyStick
04-09-2010, 10:52 PM
Just looking some thoughts on my products and process for doing some paint correction on my cars;





Step 1: Wash



Wash car using Dish washing Soap (my case sunlight, as cant find Dawn)

Dry



Step 2: Clay



Clay - Mequiar`s Smooth Surface Clay

Lube - Mequiar`s Quik Detailer - Mist and Wipe

Repeat Step 1: Wash



Step 3A: Polish



Tape

Menzerna Power Finish PO203S with Orange Pad

IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down

Menzerna Final Polish PO85RD with White Pad

IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down





OR



Step 3B: Polish



Tape

Menzerna Power Finish PO203S with Orange Pad

IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down

Menzerna Power Finish PO203S with White Pad

IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down

Menzerna Final Polish PO85RD with Black Pad

IPA (1:1 mix) wipe down





Step 4: Sealant



Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant with Blue Pad

Remove by Hand

JohnKleven
04-09-2010, 11:38 PM
I think using SIP before 85RD is a better match than using the power finish first IMO.

dmw2692004
04-09-2010, 11:58 PM
I really feel that you don`t need to re-wash after you clay if you use enough lube. Wash it down with a heavy dilution of soap or foam gun+power wash when you are done with the polishing to get all the polishing dust out of the cracks.

Double Dizzle
04-10-2010, 12:10 AM
I think you should find a better wash soap. Dawn works well for removing waxes and such if needed, but I would at least do the rewash after clay with a Megs GC or something along that line.

Rtom
04-10-2010, 12:22 AM
I think you should find a better wash soap. Dawn works well for removing waxes and such if needed, but I would at least do the rewash after clay with a Megs GC or something along that line.



+1. A real wash soap will help cling and rinse the dirt free of the paint. May not be TOTALLY necessary, but it`s always nice to have.



Washing and claying steps look fine. Should have no troubles at all.



I`d use a hybrid of Step 3A and Step 3B. An orange power pad/white pad with PO203 can polish and finish down nicely enough to go straight to PO85RD with a black pad (For that extra "pop" in your paint, if you really feel it`s necessary). If for some reason it does not, PO85RD on a white pad will work just as nicely as a finishing polish with a little extra cut.



Report back on the Power Lock, still considering some of it myself :LOLOL

PointyStick
04-10-2010, 02:42 PM
I really feel that you don`t need to re-wash after you clay if you use enough lube. Wash it down with a heavy dilution of soap or foam gun+power wash when you are done with the polishing to get all the polishing dust out of the cracks.



Thinking some more on this, washing/drying/IPA wipe-down after polish to ensure the paint is really clean for the sealant would probably be a better use of time then washing after claying.




I think you should find a better wash soap. Dawn works well for removing waxes and such if needed, but I would at least do the rewash after clay with a Megs GC or something along that line.



I do use Megs GC for my typical washes. From what I have read it seems to be a good idea to ensure the paint is completely stripped of everything before applying a sealant, which is why the Dawn.




Report back on the Power Lock, still considering some of it myself :LOLOL



Will do, used some already on the front panel of my dark green xterra and looks good and feels really smooth (which seems to be a typical experience from the reviews I have read). I guess durability is the unknown right now.



I will be doing a older black Jetta next week and will post results.



I used Zanio before, it worked well in the dark green xterra (looked good and smooth), but on my white 323 I didnt like the look nor did it leave the paint feeling smooth, so I thought to give the Power Lock a try.

dmw2692004
04-10-2010, 02:47 PM
I do use Megs GC for my typical washes. From what I have read it seems to be a good idea to ensure the paint is completely stripped of everything before applying a sealant, which is why the Dawn.





If you`re going to be claying/polishing, chances are that you are going to be removing whatever protection is already on the paint, I would just stick a megs GC wash.

PointyStick
04-10-2010, 04:41 PM
Any thoughts on if I should add a paint cleaner step after polishing step/before sealant?



For a washing soap any reviews on AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner?

Accumulator
04-11-2010, 10:03 AM
For a washing soap any reviews on AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo & Conditioner?



I *really* like its lubricity and encapsulation, and it cleans well too.



BUT...I found it surprisingly harsh on LSPs. So much so that I quit using it basically over that. Until I got on my Griot`s Car Wash kick, the Pinnacle was my "good vehicle" shampoo (due to its harshness, I`d already switched from it to Meg`s #62 on the daily drivers).



If you want a *great* shampoo, I`d go with the Griot`s (simply all I use now), or the Optimum (regular shampoo, not their ONR), or DuraGloss. Those are all a lot cheaper than the Pinnacle too.

PointyStick
04-11-2010, 01:50 PM
If you want a *great* shampoo, I`d go with the Griot`s (simply all I use now), or the Optimum (regular shampoo, not their ONR), or DuraGloss. Those are all a lot cheaper than the Pinnacle too.



Just bought Optimum Car Wash from eShine. (http://www.eshine.ca/optimum_car_wash_32oz-1601.php)...seems to be well loved around here