Megs NXT tech wax 2.0

[mgcyr]

Do I need to be particularly careful around the wipers and other plastic surfaces, lights or emblems, or does this wipe easily off should it come into contact?

As well, what would be a good product to remove this residue from plastic surfaces? When I got my car 1 month ago, it had this residue on the wipers and around the sunroof, and I don`t know how to get rid of it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Mike_Phillips]

Since this is your first post to Autopia...



Welcome to Autopia!



If you wipe the NXT residue off immediately after getting it onto trim most of it will come off and there won`t be much of a stain but it`s really better to not get any wax on trim, especially the cursed Pebble Textured Black Plastic Trim so common on new cars.



Slow down, focus on the task at hand and be careful OR use some Painter`s Tape to tape trim off. Taping trim off takes more time upfront but allows you to be sloppy and saves time on the back-end.



As for getting dried wax off there`s a number of products on the market for this and most people will tell you to use Peanut Butter but it`s actually not the peanut part of peanut butter but the vegetable oil in the Peanut Butter that does the trick.





:)

[StadiumDetail]

Some people are going to disagree with me on this...



It isn`t absoltely necessary to wax every single inch of your car. Since painting when from single stage to ss/clear coat there are UV protectants in the clear coat that protect from environmental issues, waxing is now more of a beauty thing and to help with future cleaning than it is to actually add protection. If you are worried about getting wax on a plastic piece or in a crack then just stay a little bit away from the edge, you will never be able to tell the difference when the wax comes off.



For removal, there are a variety of things that work, my suggestion is to try out what you have on hand: Dawn dish soap, any strong degreaser, isoprophyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), basicly anything that will break down oils is also going to break down the wax. Just note that it may take a little effort, when wax hardens it is much more difficult to get off.

[Camaro5Ryan]

I use Adam`s All purpose cleaner to get wax off trim on vehicles I`m working on.. I dilute it 2:1 w/ water, and spray on a MF towel.. Takes the wax right off.



Just make sure to protect the surface after using any APC on your vehicle.

[Chops]

Isn`t NXT 2.0 a non trim staining wax? Last time I used it to wax my dad`s Sierra I got a little on the black textured door handle and it wiped right off. It left it darker then normal so I proceeded to use it on all the black plastic and it worked better then a protectant.

[technomafia]

use a pink eraser to get the wax off the moldings and what not. its the simpilest and cheapest way.

[BIGDAVE]

I have had good luck with Lucas Liquid Polish. This stuff is as thin as water and is very easy to use. It is also a water spot killer on paint, glass and chrome. I even use it on my clear glass shower doors. It also has a nice wet look on paint and a little goes a loooong way. It seems to be more of a strong chemical-type cleaner wax, than an actual polish. It does remove the staining but I don`t know about long term affects on plastic or rubber. I picked up two bottles when Pep Boys was clearing them out but I don`t know if it can be found OTC anywhere but I will get more when I run out even if I have to order a case. This stuff is just silly easy to use. Dressing the trim prior to waxing also helps avoid the problem.

[LICamaro85]

I just do not understand how you can say that wax/sealants do not protect the paint from the elements/uv rays and that you do not need to wax your paint. You ever look at a car that has been neglected and never waxed and the sun ate threw the clear coat and the clear is starting to peel off. Than you look at a car that has been well keep and it can be 40 year old paint and look brand new versus 10 year old paint that has been neglected and needs a repaint... I think that proves something right there, But hey maybe that is just me.





- LI 85

[nonsensez9]

use a pink eraser to get the wax off the moldings and what not. its the simpilest and cheapest way.



+1 :up

[StadiumDetail]

I just do not understand how you can say that wax/sealants do not protect the paint from the elements/uv rays and that you do not need to wax your paint. You ever look at a car that has been neglected and never waxed and the sun ate threw the clear coat and the clear is starting to peel off. Than you look at a car that has been well keep and it can be 40 year old paint and look brand new versus 10 year old paint that has been neglected and needs a repaint... I think that proves something right there, But hey maybe that is just me.





- LI 85



Generally clear coat failure is from a variety of things, the least likely being UV damage. To use your same example, there are hundreds of 10-15yr old cars (I`ll give you a specific example if you would like) around my small TX town that I can safely assume have never been waxed in the entire life span of the vehicle and the paint looks fine.



But this is getting off topic. The real point I was trying to make is that it isn`t necessary to wax every single inch of a vehicle, just stay a bit away from the edge and make it a speedy enjoyable process rather than taping all the trim up for a simple wax job (the extreme I know). I never once told him not to wax his car.

[tssdetailing]

Some people are going to disagree with me on this...



It isn`t absoltely necessary to wax every single inch of your car. Since painting when from single stage to ss/clear coat there are UV protectants in the clear coat that protect from environmental issues, waxing is now more of a beauty thing and to help with future cleaning than it is to actually add protection. If you are worried about getting wax on a plastic piece or in a crack then just stay a little bit away from the edge, you will never be able to tell the difference when the wax comes off.



For removal, there are a variety of things that work, my suggestion is to try out what you have on hand: Dawn dish soap, any strong degreaser, isoprophyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), basicly anything that will break down oils is also going to break down the wax. Just note that it may take a little effort, when wax hardens it is much more difficult to get off.



funny thing about NXT is that if you don`t wax an area, there is a noticable difference between where it was applied and where it isn`t applied. The waxed surfaces look very deep and inky (atleast on black). so i can see why this guy wants to get every inch.



that being said. i`m just not a fan of tech wax. it`s very static-y

[LICamaro85]

I am not going to argue with you but I would never not wax my car or not wax the entire thing. If you are going to do something than do it right.



If you are going to use an OTC wax I would go with Gold Class or Mothers Reflections or FX wax. Those are some of the OTC waxs that I like.



- LI 85

[mgcyr]

I don`t know if this makes a difference about how careful I would need to be, but I am not referring to the paste, but rather the liquid wax. Does this change any opinions?

[WaxManRonnie]

Not a fan of NXT. There are so many other products out that blow it out

of the water.

[JaredPointer]

that being said. i`m just not a fan of tech wax. it`s very static-y



Perhaps it`s your towels? I`ve used NXT 2.0 quite a bit, and have found it to be every bit as anti-static as the highly touted anti-static products (like FK 425). Of course, if I am recalling correctly. It`s been a little while since I`ve used it. Don`t know if that says something about the anti-static marketing more than anything else.



Point being, static-y towels lead to a static filled LSP/finish regardless of the product used. In my experience.



And regarding the OP question, I`ve not noticed NXT 2.0 to be a staining LSP. :xyxthumbs