View Full Version : Can I go from SIP to P085rd?
I`m in the middle of a polishing job and i`m mostly using SIP on a white pad. Can I follow that up with P085rd or do I need to go to 106ff? thanks
vtec92civic
11-21-2009, 01:16 PM
do you a test spot. You might be able to jump to 85rd if you are using SIP with a white pad . . . . . but i think it would be best to do a little panel and see what the results are and if they are not what you are looking for then follow up with 106 then 85rd
dnadrifter
11-22-2009, 12:34 AM
I have absolutely no experience with this, but from my perusing forums I believe I have seen Phil at Detailers Domain to this exact thing in his extensive detailing posts. (I could be wrong though...just wanted to point you in that direction in case you are interested)
fergnation
11-22-2009, 12:55 AM
Absolutely. SIP is my favorite middle polish and using a white pad will leave you with a great finish. It`s rare that I have to clean anything up after SIP other than jsut trying to bring the gloss out. The abrasives in SIP are milled so fine that they can correct without leaving any haze like a compound would.
I will say that I always do follow SIP up with a finish polish though.
SuperBee364
11-22-2009, 02:43 PM
It depends.... I`ve seen SIP finish down flawlessly, and I`ve also seen it leave serious compounding marks. On hard clears, SIP usually will finish down flawlessly, so you can go straight to a jeweling polish without having to worry about doing *any* more correction/cleanup at all. On soft clears, sometimes SIP will leave compounding marks that are beyond the reach of 85RD. It just depends on the car you`re working on... after you`re done with the SIP, give it a good look over in the lights. If it finished down well, go right to the 85RD.
Cleaning Fool
11-22-2009, 04:40 PM
It depends.... I`ve seen SIP finish down flawlessly, and I`ve also seen it leave serious compounding marks. On hard clears, SIP usually will finish down flawlessly, so you can go straight to a jeweling polish without having to worry about doing *any* more correction/cleanup at all. On soft clears, sometimes SIP will leave compounding marks that are beyond the reach of 85RD. It just depends on the car you`re working on... after you`re done with the SIP, give it a good look over in the lights. If it finished down well, go right to the 85RD.
agree.....
Rob Tomlin
11-23-2009, 09:36 PM
It depends.... I`ve seen SIP finish down flawlessly, and I`ve also seen it leave serious compounding marks. On hard clears, SIP usually will finish down flawlessly, so you can go straight to a jeweling polish without having to worry about doing *any* more correction/cleanup at all. On soft clears, sometimes SIP will leave compounding marks that are beyond the reach of 85RD. It just depends on the car you`re working on... after you`re done with the SIP, give it a good look over in the lights. If it finished down well, go right to the 85RD.
Well said as usual. :2thumbs:
However, I would like to know if the OP is using a DA or Rotary?
dennn
11-23-2009, 10:06 PM
As mentioned, SIP finishes almost flawlessly on harder paints. If you are working on softer paint and you feel the need to use PO106FA, you can ultimately finish off with PO106FA. PO106FA finishes extremely nice and following up with PO85RD may not be required. Luckily (or not so luckily) I mostly work on cars with very hard clear coats where M105 can finish almost LSP ready.
In the future if you want to skip a step between jeweling and polishing, try using PO203s. It finishes really nicely on most paint surfaces, hard and soft. I usually polish with PO203s and finish off with PO85RD. This combination ultimately skips PO106FA.