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djs134
10-24-2009, 08:18 AM
Been putting together a plan to completely detail our DDs. Pretty much have decided on my products and tools. But when I look at the time involved to do it right, it will take more than a few evenings. Detailing the interior isn`t a big deal since I can obviously do that over the course of an evening or two.



The exterior... now there`s a question. If I clay the entire vehicle (it`s never been clayed or polished) that could easily take an evening including the initial wash. So the question then comes up, what is the best way to proceed from there?



Assuming that the DD is used every day, am I looking at something like this ?



Evening 1: Wash/Clay



Evening 2: Wash/M83



Evening 3: Wash/M80



Evening 4: Wash/M3



Evening 5: Wash/OPS





How long have you found to be ok to expose the surface to DD and not affect the previous treatment before sealing/waxing? Should I wash before each step to remove any contaminants from the surface before taking the next step? And if I apply a few coats of OPS should I wash between applications if the vehicle is used between applications?



Thanks, I did searching on this but didn`t really turn up anything remotely close....

Bunky
10-24-2009, 09:11 AM
You could approach it another way. Do the complete steps in sections. For example, wash a section like the hood with a rinseless product, clay, and correct. Then do the next panel the next time. Then, wash entire vehicle and apply the LSP when you have finished the correction. The rinseless or consider a waterless wash should save time -- dragging out the hose, etc -- since you really just need to do the section you will work on.

djs134
10-24-2009, 09:18 AM
Good suggestion. So, Wash car and then M83/M80/M03 the hood. Next night do the front quarters, etc.



Then wash the car again and apply OS...



Sounds like a plan.

DTCM
10-24-2009, 10:43 AM
Claying the car all at once should only take you a hour or 2 at the most.

WaxManRonnie
10-24-2009, 11:16 AM
Washing the car after each step isn`t needed. Nor is doing one panel at a time of all steps. Kind of some goofy suggestions mentioned. Sorry.:sosad

Just take a weekend and do them both.

Use a quick detailer in between steps after the

1st polish and you should be fine.

Accumulator
10-24-2009, 12:33 PM
Washing the car after each step isn`t needed. Nor is doing one panel at a time of all steps. Kind of some goofy suggestions mentioned. Sorry.:sosad



Oh, I dunno..that "goofy suggestion" to do a single panel per session (all steps,including LSP) has worked out very well for a lot of us, including a guy named Mike Phillips ;)



One of the best things about doing a single panel is that people are often less inclined to rush through it due to concerns about getting finished quickly enough. Plus, that shouldn`t take up the whole day; some people can`t spend an entire weekend doing nothing but detailing a car.



Not that things don`t always go as quicky/smoothly as expected, and if something ends up taking a long, long time I`d rather somebody not have the whole car half-done when time runs out.



djs134- The problem with what you were considering is that it would leave the paint unprotected for an extended period, right up until you applied the LSP. That`s not a good idea.



I`d strongly encourage you to do a wash and then try to get *one* panel just the way you want it. If nothing else, it`ll give you an accurate gauge of what you`re dealing with and how the job is gonna go; you`ll *know* what works (or doesn`t) and how long it takes. Until you`ve done it, you just don`t know what you`re getting into.



Then do another panel (or four :D depending on how things went when you did the initial one) after each of the next few washes. When it`s all done, do another coat of LSP after each wash until you`re where you want to be.



Don`t pick the hood for the first panel, for a host of different reasons ;)



To save some time, you might reconsider the use of Meg`s #3, which won`t really accomplish all that much. Things oughta be pretty nice after the #80, which does leave a ready-to-wax finish.



Not knowing what you already have on hand, I`d really (and I mean *really*) consider using M105/M205 instead of M83/M80, but if you already have the latter then, well, OK. But expect the #83 to take a fair amount of time/effort, and use that until things are very nice, reserving the #80 for a final finishing touch.

WaxManRonnie
10-24-2009, 01:18 PM
Oh, I dunno..that "goofy suggestion" to do a single panel per session (all steps,including LSP) has worked out very well for a lot of us, including a guy named Mike Phillips ;)



Maybe goofy was to mean. But if it`s a daily driver, that method would take entirely too long. Especially if you had plans on going somewhere:argue. Garage queens of course there is no issues with that method.

djs134
10-24-2009, 03:03 PM
Claying the car all at once should only take you a hour or 2 at the most.



Your probably right. I actually broke the process up more than it will probably shake out, but there`s no telling where I might have to stop for the night.




Washing the car after each step isn`t needed. Nor is doing one panel at a time of all steps. Kind of some goofy suggestions mentioned. Sorry.:sosad

Just take a weekend and do them both.

Use a quick detailer in between steps after the

1st polish and you should be fine.



As much as I`d like to spend the weekend in the garage working on our cars, I suspect that there may be a bit of resistance to that from my lovely bride..... :bat Especially since I travel a bit over the course of the week and might be away a couple of nights per week.




.....djs134- The problem with what you were considering is that it would leave the paint unprotected for an extended period, right up until you applied the LSP. That`s not a good idea.



That`s pretty much the issue I`m worried about. Not that I would leave it unprotected for more than a couple of days, but delays DO occur and I`d hate to move a step forward and two back each time.




I`d strongly encourage you to do a wash and then try to get *one* panel just the way you want it. If nothing else, it`ll give you an accurate gauge of what you`re dealing with and how the job is gonna go; you`ll *know* what works (or doesn`t) and how long it takes. Until you`ve done it, you just don`t know what you`re getting into.



Then do another panel (or four :D depending on how things went when you did the initial one) after each of the next few washes. When it`s all done, do another coat of LSP after each wash until you`re where you want to be.



Don`t pick the hood for the first panel, for a host of different reasons ;)



I`d much rather pull it out of the garage completely done and get that "WOW" moment. But if forced to, I`d rather have it look just as great but over a few days.



Oh, and out of curiosity... why not the hood first?




To save some time, you might reconsider the use of Meg`s #3, which won`t really accomplish all that much. Things oughta be pretty nice after the #80, which does leave a ready-to-wax finish.



I was under the impression that a glaze would really make the paint "POP" before I apply the OS. Not true?






Not knowing what you already have on hand, I`d really (and I mean *really*) consider using M105/M205 instead of M83/M80, but if you already have the latter then, well, OK. But expect the #83 to take a fair amount of time/effort, and use that until things are very nice, reserving the #80 for a final finishing touch.



Funny..... some of the first advice I was offered here was to use M105/M205 rather than M83/M80. I chose the M83/M80 combo to get a feel for my DA and not have to worry about over working the product since both 83 & 80 are diminishing products. I used them on my 4Runner that I put on the market and liked the way it turned out, but now that I`ve used them and had an opportunity to relate that to what I see when I watch Scottwax on his Youtube videos, I can see the advantage of M105/M205. I`ll be on the road a little this week and found a Meg`s Pro distributor in one of the towns I`ll be in. Planned on picking up some M03 and APC but now may consider some 105 and 205.

Accumulator
10-24-2009, 04:02 PM
Maybe goofy was to mean. But if it`s a daily driver, that method would take entirely too long. Especially if you had plans on going somewhere:argue. Garage queens of course there is no issues with that method.



Maybe we`re just misunderstanding each other :think:



My garage queens get done over the course of *very* long periods of time (as in, sometimes more than just a few weeks), and I do the same with the drivers if I can pull them off the road for that long. But sometimes our dailies can only be off the road for a few hours at a time, so doing a wash plus the correction/protection of just a panel or two is all that can be accomplished in the downtime available.



Yeah, it *does* take a long time in the sense that the whole car might not get corrected/protected until a few sessions have been done (and at one-a-week that might take a while), but it`s all one can do if the sessions have to be wrapped up quickly.




Oh, and out of curiosity... why not the hood first?



It`s a big panel that`s often subjected to intense scrutiny. If something were to go wrong, it`d be a shame for it to happen on the hood, compared to some other panel that doesn`t get as much attention, and, if it`s smaller, will be easier to sort things out on.



Maybe the trunklid or the roof would be a good place to start as they`re often victims of the elements, are nice and flat (and horizontal-flat, unlike the sides) so they`re easy to work on/inspect, and they`re not "funny" like plastic bumpercovers or potentially "problematic" like doors (besides being vertical panels, which are often awkward to do, some vehicles have door handle designs that complicate things; how to get behind them effectively/etc.).




I was under the impression that a glaze would really make the paint "POP" before I apply the OS. Not true?





While I do like the Meguiar`s "pure polishes", and #3 is my second-favorite one, in most cases I don`t find them worth doing. I`d rather let the polishing suffice and spend the time/effort on other things (better polishing, more LSPing, just doing other stuff).



If you *really* want to use a glaze, I`d go with one of the new-school ones like DWG. But I myself wouldn`t bother.



Note that #80 is somewhat glaze-like in the sense that it leaves behind Meguiar`s "trade secret oils", and a light polymer, anyhow. I`d make do with that; I`ve finished a lot of cars with #80 and just gone straight to LSP...they looked fine.




Funny..... some of the first advice I was offered here was to use M105/M205 rather than M83/M80.



Heh heh, well...there`s a reason for that ;)



I gotta admit I just don`t like #83, but I *do* like #80 pretty much. If you wanted to try something that should make life easier, you could just get the M105 to use instead of the #83, and finish up with the #80 (which I take it you already have).



There`s no real worry about over/under-working M105/M205 since they don`t break down. IMO that can make them *easier* to get the hang of, especially compared to #83, where breakdown is important (it`s not *that* big a deal with #80 in most cases).



Yeah, you do want to be a little careful that you don`t overdo things with M105 since it *does* cut pretty well, but it`s a whole different proposition compared to doing real correction with #83 and might make this whole project go a *lot* quicker and easier.

djs134
10-24-2009, 04:21 PM
lol.... yeah, I`m sure there is. I guess I thought I might benefit from "working" my up from 83/80. My vehicles are deep blue and black so I figured I could do less damage. Since I may have an opportunity to pick up some 105 and 205 before I get back to my DA.......

Passrat
10-24-2009, 04:34 PM
I put on 1 coat of Klasse AIO one weekend, and then the next weekend left the car in the garage for three days after re-washing it and put on one coat of Klasse SG (by the WOWO method) every morning and every evening - 12 hours apart - for the three day weekend for a total of 6 coats. Then every time I washed it in the next two months (about 6) I put on another coat. Now my car is ready to go for the winter with a plastic shield on it. I tried rubbing a spot with straight alcohol and the sealer didn`t come off. :2thumbs:

WaxManRonnie
10-24-2009, 05:28 PM
Accumulator,

I understand what your saying. I guess I was just thinking in terms of,

if i do one or two panels and don`t do any for a few days or a week,

I might be doing them over again. Depending on where I`ve been.

Accumulator
10-25-2009, 09:38 AM
WaxManRonnie- OK, roger that. Guess it depends on what`s gonna happen to the vehicle and all sorts of other factors. This is definitely one of those topics where one approach isn`t right for everybody.



If doing things incrementally, I`d sure use a *very* durable LSP so that the first panels don`t need redone before the rest of the vehicle is finished, and I`d be fanatical about the wash/etc. so that they don`t get marred again right away too.



Passrat- heh heh, sounds like you might be willing to let things to until spring after all :D



djs134- I do think you`d find that things have come a long ways since #83/#80 were developed. But I`ll repeat once again that #80 is still some very good stuff.

WaxManRonnie
10-25-2009, 12:01 PM
Accumulator, I have grown to real like C 845 IW.

Is it a waste of time to put more than 2 coats on?

Accumulator
10-26-2009, 09:19 AM
Accumulator, I have grown to real like C 845 IW.

Is it a waste of time to put more than 2 coats on?



No, not a waste IMO/IME. It seems to layer in that multiple applications last a *lot* longer than just one. The look doesn`t really improve much (if at all) though.