sanding needed?

[drifts500]

hello! My car has some kind of yellow dots all over.



I clayed it, but did not have any effect...



I was mad and used finger nail and it seemed to work..but...finger nail= scratch and some did not take off even with finger nails lol...



Can I use wet sanding papers?



I am thinking about doing 2000 grit first, 2500 second, and lastly 3000 grit.



Also for polishing, I have SSR 2.5 and SSR1. Are these gonna remove sand marks for sure???..(PC 7424 XP will be used)



(Is it normal that PC 7424 XP makes a lot of vibration...like crazy?? My hands hurts lol)



This is my first detailing. Please help!

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss242/drifts500/DSC05958.jpg



http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss242/drifts500/DSC05939.jpg

Here is pic with lots of scratches

[dennn]

They may be rail dust or simply road contaminante. They exist on every car, but are mainly visible on white colors. Try to use a medium duty or mild clay. It usually does the job.



I don`t think sanding is really necessary. SSR2.5 and SSR1 may take out the sanding 3000 grit marks, but it will take many passes using a cutting pad. You generally want to use a compound to remove sanding marks.



You may want to start with 2500 grit first if you were to wetsand out these marks.

[drifts500]

^ Thanks!! So without sanding, but SSR 2.5 will work?? I can see it every where...lol which I really hate...Anyway Thanks!

[dennn]

SSR2.5 itself may clean out those marks. But if those marks come out by using finger nails, they will likely be removed using a medium duty clay bar.



If they appear throughout the car, then perhaps they`re tree saps. You can also try using a bug & tar remover product. Sanding will be the last thing you want to do!!!

[drifts500]

^ Thanks, I will just ask my friend to detail it for me. I decided to sell poliser and spent money on car wash supplies!! Anyway thanks!

[Street5927]

They actually look like small rust spots forming. If you catch it quick enough, you can use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and it will take them right off. I get them every now and then on my truck, and the PPCL takes them right off, and it is non abrasive.

[Barry Theal]

That is a combination of fall out and raildust. DO NOT SAND THAT PAINT. Its not needed on O.E.M. paint. Sanding is only used as a last resort or for the anal that want a perfect finish. A heavy duty clay bar will remove that then just polish out.

[Legacy]

^ Thanks, I will just ask my friend to detail it for me. I decided to sell poliser and spent money on car wash supplies!! Anyway thanks!

Better change your sig... you can`t be a good detailer and not have a polisher.:LOLOL

[drifts500]

^ I know. Since my friend does detail, I think it is better to learn more and go into polishing step.

[David Fermani]

This looks like a perfect candidate for 4000 grit sandpaper.

[Accumulator]

That is a combination of fall out and raildust. DO NOT SAND THAT PAINT..



Heh heh, hey folks, when *that guy* says "don`t sand it" you`d better listen ;)



If it were my car, I`d do a decontamination with AutoInt/ValuGard`s "ABC" or the FinishKare equivalent, also claying as necessary. The acidic step of the system will "burn out" the stuff that`s causing the rust-blooms. No, don`t worry, it`s pretty mild stuff; I often wish it were stronger.



IME the decon. systems are more likely to get *all* the ferrous contamination out of the paint; with clay, serious contamination like that can be hard to get out 100% and I`d rather do it once than have to redo it if things "come back".



Since the claying didn`t have any real effect, I`d move on to the decon. if only becaue it`ll result in less additional marring than a really aggressive clay. If doing the correction via PC I`d be keeping that in mind (if via rotary/Flex I`d reach for the Sonus gray, but that`s me, not drifts500).



Oh, and :nono regarding that "..I was mad and used finger nail and it seemed to work..but...finger nail= scratch ..." Don`t get [ticked] off and do harmful stuff, it just makes things harder overall ;)

[drifts500]

Thanks for all helps! I will do anything that you guys recommended except sanding!

[David Fermani]

Heh heh, hey folks, when *that guy* says "don`t sand it" you`d better listen ;)



If it were my car, I`d do a decontamination with AutoInt/ValuGard`s "ABC" or the FinishKare equivalent, also claying as necessary. The acidic step of the system will "burn out" the stuff that`s causing the rust-blooms. No, don`t worry, it`s pretty mild stuff; I often wish it were stronger.



IME the decon. systems are more likely to get *all* the ferrous contamination out of the paint; with clay, serious contamination like that can be hard to get out 100% and I`d rather do it once than have to redo it if things "come back".



Since the claying didn`t have any real effect, I`d move on to the decon. if only becaue it`ll result in less additional marring than a really aggressive clay. If doing the correction via PC I`d be keeping that in mind (if via rotary/Flex I`d reach for the Sonus gray, but that`s me, not drifts500).



Oh, and :nono regarding that "..I was mad and used finger nail and it seemed to work..but...finger nail= scratch ..." Don`t get [ticked] off and do harmful stuff, it just makes things harder overall ;)



Hey Accumulator - Brainstorm with me on this.

Don`t get me wrong, ABC is a wonderful product/process and I`ve used it 100`s of times, but is it mandantory on vehicles getting corrected? I used to do a ton of new car warranty decons for Ford/GM/Chrylser dealers and I always liked using ABC because there wasn`t a need for follow up with polishing afterwards. They just wanted the rust off the paint and didn`t even want it sealed after. If you sanded with a fine grade of paper and removed the rust visually & by touch (check with magnification i.e. cellophane), do you think any reminants that *might* still be there would get removed after multiple buffing steps that followed?

[Accumulator]

Hey Accumulator - Brainstorm with me on this.

Don`t get me wrong, ABC is a wonderful product/process and I`ve used it 100`s of times, but is it mandantory on vehicles getting corrected?



Nah, not in a million years :D While some make it sound like *THE* first step to any full detail, I don`t think it`s remotely mandatory.



I use "A"/etc. for a super-shampoo when I buy a used vehicle or do something for somebody else`s that`s in [crappy] shape. For pros, I can see it being a worthwhile thing in many cases.



I (only) use "B"/etc. when there`s a real ferrous contamination issue, or the potential for one.




If you sanded with a fine grade of paper and removed the rust visually & by touch (check with magnification i.e. cellophane), do you think any reminants that *might* still be there would get removed after multiple buffing steps that followed?



I bet I`m thinking the same thing you are; there`s always a *CHANCE* that purely abrasive measures won`t get that last bit of ferrous contamination, which will then come back to haunt you.



But there`s always a chance that that the decon. won`t get it all either, huh?



Guess it gets back to that "do you feel lucky?" question. I`d feel luckier with the decon.



FWIW, I`ve had *FAR* fewer recurrances with decon. than with clay and compounding/etc., though I still like clay + decon. when the rust-blooms are significant.



*BUT*... I haven`t done all the wetsanding you have to be able to compare decon. to that, so vs. wetsanding, well...I just don`t know :nixweiss

[Accumulator]

Additional thought: what about the chance that sanding will drive the contamination further into the paint :think:



That used to be a concern regarding other types of contamination back in the day when I was doing body/paint work.