How hard is SS green usually?

[efnfast]

Probably varies manufacturer to manufacturer, but typically SS black is soooooo soft it isn`t even funny, and SS white is hard as nails.



Any idea about SS green?



I did a bit of work on my John Deere today (SS green) and ended up using SIP+PFW+3401. Even on speed 6 I barely made a dent - took multiple passes, and even then it wasn`t perfect. Also, I noticed I barely got any paint transfer on my pads. It was there, but not much.

[bwalker25]

it would vary manufacturer to manufacturer, but IMHO Ford SS Green is a medium/hard paint. Not rock hard, but not soft like typical ford paint.



I have a very limited experience with SS Green, but what was on a mustang I delt with last year sometime was much harder than normal clear coated paint I deal with on other Ford cars.

[Accumulator]

efnfast- I can`t quite remember the details but the paint used by John Deere is different from normal automotive ss. It`s probably an epoxy or something like Imron but I dunno for sure.



[Insert "so you`re polishing your John Deere, huh?" comments here...]

[efnfast]

efnfast- I can`t quite remember the details but the paint used by John Deere is different from normal automotive ss. It`s probably an epoxy or something like Imron but I dunno for sure.



[Insert "so you`re polishing your John Deere, huh?" comments here...]



Don`t really know much about Imron - would that be fairly hard?



And yes, I`m re-polishing it :D



At the beginning of the year I hit it with my cyclo and got out 70% of the abuse on it (16yrs of hitting cows, fences, trees, oxidization, etc....). Since I`ve gotten better with my Flex I wanted to give it a try, and I was surprised at how much I had to pound it to get it to 95% (and despite how hard I was pounding, I got virtually no paint transfer)



Very frustrating because what I found worked well (after all that least agressive method BS, lol) was



3401+PFW+SIP at speed 6. This got rid of most of the RIDs, but left massive wool swirls behind - very unusual because most times I`ve used PFW pad+SIP it finished out LSP ready.....on the JD it performed like a wool pad - defect removal, but swirls everywhere



3401+white+106 at speed 6 removed the swirls from the PFW



Then wax.





This taken taken at the beginning of the year. As you can see, `easy` to make tractor shineeeeee



Before 16yrs of abuse

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/trac2.jpg

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/trac4.jpg



After

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/trac13.jpg

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/trac11.jpg



(I should have taken some pictures yesterday of it looking 95% rather than 70%, but didn`t get around to it)

[Accumulator]

Heh heh, well...you sure do have it looking good!



Guess the paint on it is hard.



FWIW, Imron was one of the first old-school "super durable" paints and it was/is generally tough stuff to correct.

[efnfast]

That makes sense - I`m just glad then automotive SSs arn`t like this. (although I almost always never do them, unless it`s for a friend)



I did a black supra, and after 1 pass my pad was pure black. Do 1 pass on the JD and I can`t see any green. Several passes later I think I see a hint of it...maybe....I don`t relaly know at this point, lol.



The most frustrating part though is that it`s hard to correct, BUT it mars so bloody easily - if you`ve got just a very fine layer of dust and your hand touches it for a split second, bam, instant marring that needs a wool pad to remove.



I see the new ones (this one is 16yrs old) in stores are clearcoated.....that would make my life so much easier, hah!