Didn`t turn out too bad...What next?

[flash_e]

I just receive my flex XC and though I would post the results. I thought it turned our pretty well for my first attempt. My question is what is everyone`s recommendation on what to do next? How do I maintain what I have done or improve on it? Do you finish polish and seal after so many months to maintain? I have a couple of scratches (not shown) that I still need to work on to see if i can remove. The problem is I can`t really get to them with my flex. Any tips to take them out?

[attachment=9026:14500.attach]



Forgot to metion my steps:

Wash and clay bar

Uber Orange Pad / Menzema Power Finish (P0203S)

Uber Blue Pad / Menzema Super Finish (P0106FA)

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax applied by hand

[flash_e]

Forgot to metion my steps:

Wash and clay bar

Uber Orange Pad / Menzema Power Finish (P0203S)

Uber Blue Pad / Menzema Super Finish (P0106FA)

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax applied by hand

[Setec Astronomy]

Well, you have to work on your wash technique so you marr as little as possible during washing. I`d reapply the IW every 6-8 weeks to keep things nice and slick (or more often if you`re inclined). I don`t know where you live, but most members who can keep up the regimen seem to polish twice a year; once as part of winter prep, and once as part of spring cleanup.

[flash_e]

I live in the Midwest. I am more aware of proper washing, etc... now. This was the first time the truck had been polished since I bought it in 2002. At this step does every recommend just using a finishing polish and then sealant/wax? What is the best way to remove scratches that is on the curve of the metal? It`s an area that I cannot get my flex in? Do these just need elbow "grease" and polish out by hand?

[Setec Astronomy]

If you can`t get your machine in there, you`re just going to have to hump it and do those parts by hand. Possibly a larger pad might allow you to get an edge in somewhere you can`t reach now, but you need to be careful with that combined with the forced-rotation of the Flex.



If you`ve got the paint where you want it, a twice-a-year polishing with the P106FA should reduce any wash marring, clean the surface, and amp your gloss, followed by the IW. I`d apply the IW at least twice as often as the polish (at least every 3 months), since it`s so easy and to keep things slick and easy to clean.

[Accumulator]

.. At this step does every recommend just using a finishing polish and then sealant/wax?



If you *really* get your wash regimen sorted out you can just use Sonus green Ultra-fine clay and then reapply the LSP without any polishing...at least for a while. No, it won`t gloss things up the way a finish polish will, but it`s a whole lot quicker and easier and I bet that in most cases nobody will ever notice the difference.




What is the best way to remove scratches that is on the curve of the metal? It`s an area that I cannot get my flex in? Do these just need elbow "grease" and polish out by hand?





Try to figure out *why* you couldn`t reach them with the Flex. Often there`s a way to do it after all (if not, yeah, do it by hand). Often I use a *larger* pad, letting the overhanging outer portion do the work. Or take the plastic handle off the Flex (watch it, the housing gets very hot!) to make it a little smaller/handier.




If you`ve got the paint where you want it, a twice-a-year polishing with the P106FA should reduce any wash marring, clean the surface, and amp your gloss, followed by the IW...



I`d kinda hope he can avoid marring it enough that it won`t need polished that often (eh..."hope springs eternal" and all that).




I`d apply the IW at least twice as often as the polish (at least every 3 months), since it`s so easy and to keep things slick and easy to clean.



Yeah, rewax *before* it`s really necessary; stay ahead of the curve.