View Full Version : removing wetsanding scratches by hand
midnightrider
08-17-2009, 09:46 AM
Okay, I need some serious help. I tried wetsanding out some deep scratches on my trunk and it worked. Only now I have wetsanding scratches all over the trunk. I used 3000 grit paper soaked overnight in soapy water and used a ton of water on the car as I did the wetsanding. I did not press the paper into the car I let the paper do the work. It got out the deep scratches but I have a thin film left the sanding. What procedure and product should I use for my next step? And remember I am only doing this by hand. Or did I just mess it up. This is on a black car. I did s search and could not find anything when doing it by hand.
craigdt
08-17-2009, 10:18 AM
Try some UC and ScratchX 2.0
midnightrider
08-17-2009, 10:32 AM
Try some UC and ScratchX 2.0
Great thanks. I did forget to mention I started using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it helped a little. But I need something stronger. Is Scratchx 2.0 stronger than the Meguiars Ultimate Compound?
dheath
08-17-2009, 11:44 PM
Great thanks. I did forget to mention I started using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it helped a little. But I need something stronger. Is Scratchx 2.0 stronger than the Meguiars Ultimate Compound?
nope. Its less abrasive. Try megs 105
imported_Larry A
08-18-2009, 08:25 AM
You may have to go over the trunk 5 or 6 times . Its a lot of work.
midnightrider
08-18-2009, 09:42 AM
Great, thanks for all the help. I just ordered megs 105 from Autogeek. I`ll just do many applications.
Mike_Phillips
08-18-2009, 10:01 AM
If you haven`t tried terry cloth to apply the UC with, maybe give this a try. The little cotton loops, (the nap), act as a form of gentle abrasive that will give the UC more bite.
Afterwards, if the terry cloth leaves any fiber marks then simply re-polish using foam instead of terry cloth. Be careful, there was a post here yesterday about a gentleman who rubbed through the clearcoat and exposed the primer underneath.
Also, technique is all important. This video is a few years old and shows using an early version of ScratchX that used DAT instead of SMAT but the technique outlined is the same way you would apply UC or M105 by hand to remove a below surface defects.
How to correctly apply ScratchX to remove swirls and scratches (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6561779259119696224&q=source%3A012248622287543068779&hl=en)
:)
midnightrider
08-18-2009, 11:50 AM
Also, technique is all important. This video is a few years old and shows using an early version of ScratchX that used DAT instead of SMAT but the technique outlined is the same way you would apply UC or M105 by hand to remove a below surface defects.:)
Great, thanks for the video. Also, I did try terry cloth along with a foam applicators but the scratches are still there. They are getting better with each application but I feel I need something stronger than the UC. Hopefully the M105 will help.
efnfast
08-18-2009, 11:59 AM
Good luck removing them by hand - I`m sure it`s possible if you put in enough time, but I don`t think it`s going ot b eanywhere near easy or fun. M105 can do it, as said above, but you better not mind being there a really long time. (atleast from when I`ve tried to correct stuff by hand with it)
midnightrider
08-18-2009, 12:10 PM
Good luck removing them by hand - I`m sure it`s possible if you put in enough time, but I don`t think it`s going ot b eanywhere near easy or fun. M105 can do it, as said above, but you better not mind being there a really long time. (atleast from when I`ve tried to correct stuff by hand with it)
A friend of mine has a 7" Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher. Do you think it will Help / Hurt / or make no difference to this project?
wannafbody
08-18-2009, 12:20 PM
Ain`t gonna get them out by hand. You`ll need at least a PC and Megs 105.
Accumulator
08-18-2009, 12:36 PM
A friend of mine has a 7" Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher. Do you think it will Help / Hurt / or make no difference to this project?
Might be worth trying if only because it won`t get tired/frustrated the way a person might. I wouldn`t necessarily expect it to leave an OK finish though, so plan on still doing some by-hand work.
You may have to go over the trunk 5 or 6 times . Its a lot of work...
Might take a lot more than that, and I mean a *LOT*.
I recently took out some sanding scratches on the M3 using PC/3.5" PFW/M105/pressure. I did a *LOT* of passes with that combo before I was satisfied.
If working by hand, even with terry M105 can take a long, long time to get the job done. Compare your hand motions to a machine doing a few thousand motions per minute...
Legacy
08-18-2009, 02:17 PM
Be very careful using 105 by hand. It`s a heavy compound and applying by hand with too much pressure could get you in trouble. No telling how much cc you already removed by wetsanding and using UC by hand.
Mike_Phillips
08-18-2009, 02:41 PM
No telling how much cc you already removed by wetsanding and using UC by hand.
Yeperdoo... that`s my thoughts too.
Both procedures remove paint. You don`t want to do this, :soscared: or this, :bawling:
:)
midnightrider
08-18-2009, 02:43 PM
Be very careful using 105 by hand. It`s a heavy compound and applying by hand with too much pressure could get you in trouble. No telling how much cc you already removed by wetsanding and using UC by hand.
Thanks for the tip. So use almost no pressure at all?
The wetsanding was very minimal. I had a few scratches and used no pressure as I just let the paper do the work. I`ll do the same with the M105. I think I will try it like maybe 10 light applications and if it does not look right I’ll have to take it to a professional. I certainly don’t want to make it worse but I would like to give it a try.