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gsniper666
07-27-2009, 08:49 AM
Okay guys, here`s the issue



I recently painted my 01 celica. Complete job, used a ss acrylic enamel, with hardener. The paint was a metallic dark grey, came out gun metal colored, but looks nice.



Here is where i ran into the problem...



It has orange peel, and i`ve gone to wet-sand it, used a 1500 grit wetand, and the paint wetsanded well, and took out much of the orange peel, but now i`m left with much of the hood separated into diffeent color tones (eg. darker to lighter color).



This is after i buffered it with compound and my buffer to re-shine the surface.



Its not that the color has been cut into at different levels, it seems like the the paint was actually separate colors and some areas were slightly darker, and looks almost as if the paint was badly misted with a spray paint.



I don`t understand why its tinted, and i`ve been told that you shouldn`t sand a metalic with an acrylic enamel by some, but others told me to.



It looks worse than it is in the pics, more-so on a hard angle for some reason



http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/gsniper666/IMG_0082.jpg



http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/gsniper666/IMG_0079.jpg



http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/gsniper666/IMG_0080.jpg



http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/gsniper666/IMG_0084-1.jpg



Ignore that corner of the hood, that was a resprayed area due to some fishy- eyes

Thanks

Jason

Setec Astronomy
07-27-2009, 08:56 AM
I`m no expert, but the flake lays out in the paint depending on how much you reduced it, agitated it in the cup, how thick it went on...it may not be uniform to begin with. If you sand it...and all the flake is floating on top, and you sand off the flake, it`s not going to look the same as the other areas.



Back in the days before clearcoat, metallic paints were very difficult to match on bodywork...seems to have become a non-issue with CC...this may be the reason.

mborner
07-27-2009, 10:13 AM
To be honest with you, in this day and age, all metalic paint is base coat/clear coat. Why would you paint a single stage metalic color? No matter how good it might look when painted, it will begin rapid oxidation within 6 months. Solid SS is okay but metalics can`t handle UV without a clear coat.

Setec Astronomy
07-27-2009, 10:17 AM
Wow, that`s way too thick. You can see how the flake flowed around like lava. It wasn`t uniform before you sanded it so it`s sure not gonna be after.

Accumulator
07-27-2009, 10:44 AM
I`m an old-school fan of ss metallic paints :D



I wouldn`t wetsand them, especially enamels. Too great a chance of messing them up. SS metallics are generally very fragile and enamels more so than lacquers. I don`t even like to aggressively *compound* such paints.



Long, long ago, a member here named guitarman posted a good explanation about the hows and whys of this.



gsniper666- Welcome to Autopia! You might need to have the sanded/etc. panel reshot. Hope it matches OK. Then *don`t* sand it. Live with the orangepeel. IMO, if you want really smooth/level paint your painter oughta use different stuff.



Don`t listen to the people who say you can wetsand that paint. You`ve proven to yourself that their advice is wrong.




Back in the days before clearcoat, metallic paints were very difficult to match on bodywork...seems to have become a non-issue with CC...



Yeah, it was harder then, but it`s not all sorted out today. Sigh...I have the metallic b/c paint vehicles to prove it. Sometimes it comes out great, sometimes (more often than not, it seems :( ) it doesn`t.



Oddly enough, some spot-ins on my ss metallics are 100% perfect. Absolutely indiscernible. Sometimes you get lucky (but IMO that`s all it is- luck).

gsniper666
07-27-2009, 10:54 AM
alright guys.. thanks... any more info would be great



i was also told that i should put some more more additive to thin out the paint on the last coat that i do so that it will level out the paint a little better



they told me to do it as a trick as it starts to dry so it will remove most of the peel out of the paint by using less paint and more thinner with hardener



think it will work

AuAltima3.5
07-27-2009, 12:47 PM
I am no expert, but it looks like the paint was put on an improperly prepped (i.e oily) surface. Something happened, I have had jobs look like that before. I am not a pro by any means, but I recognize what happened.



I think that if you are seeking an OEM finish, you will have to sand down, some or all, and respray or respray CC at a minimum.



Good luck, I would say if it weren`t for that little hiccup, you would have a good paint job.

gsniper666
07-27-2009, 02:22 PM
there is no cc... this is a ss (single stage) paint job



at this point, chances are, i will be repainting anyways, due to burning into the paint near an edge, but, any help beyond this will be nice so that it will not happen again



the car i did before worked well with a ss acrylic enamel, but it was a non metallic color

gsniper666
07-30-2009, 12:25 PM
well guys.. im at the point, just going to sand it down ... then im going into repaint and maybe go a little thinner on the last coat that i do to ease out the orange peel... anyone around here work on an acrylic enamel metallic paint much???

Flashtime
07-30-2009, 01:50 PM
We can help you here: Autobody101.com



Yes, repaintinng is the best option. Or the only option, really.