Is Paint cleaner really necessary if polishing?

[imported_detail1]

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u130/2badgn/IMG_3623.jpg?t=1247338560

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u130/2badgn/IMG_3631.jpg?t=1247340335

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u130/2badgn/IMG_3679.jpg?t=1247340450

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u130/2badgn/IMG_3675.jpg?t=1247340524

2007 white Chevy Monte Carlo SS



Problem: moderate spider webs

Process: 1. wash with foam gun

2. clay while wet and use Tarminator as lube

3. Re-wash

4. Megs 105 w/Flex DA - white pad

5. IPA

6. Menzerna PO85RD - blue pad

7. IPA

8. Pinnacle Paint cleanser? - blue pad?

9. DWG - black pad

10. Megs 16

11. Souveran or CMW



Can i go from megs 105 straight to PO85RD. I really dont want to add in another polish like FPII.



Thanks

[longdx]

The answer really is that it depends. Usually, GM clear is pretty hard and if M105 finishes down to almost LSP condition, then it should be no problem going to Merzerna PO85RD. In my experience, usuing a paint cleanser is only necessary if you are doing a mild detail (i.e paint is in pretty good condition, then sometimes using paint cleanser then LSP is only needed).

[Accumulator]

IME M105 doesn`t finish out quite as well as one might think, just gotta get the inspection condtions right and :eek: you see micromarring that was otherwise invisible. This requires natural sunlight or a 3M SunGun (brinkmans/etc. don`t work) and everything has to be just right; it can take quite a lot of inspecting before you see the "problem" but when you do you`ll understand what I`m so concerned about.



So...I`m not sure the Menzerna PO85RD/blue is a sufficient follow-up (but I`m certan that going from M105 to FPII wouldn`t work). I don`t use it, but I have to be careful following M105 with M205 if I want to be 100% certain of a finish that`s OK under *every* inspection condition. Otherwise it looks fine 99% of the time but I can get the inspection conditions just-so and suddenly it`s not the way it appeared a moment before.



The Pinnacle PCL is nice stuff but I dunno if it`s needed after an IPA wipe. IMO that will result in it being as much of a glaze as a cleaner (probably even moreso) and I can`t help but think the DWG would suffice on its own.

[SuperBee364]

+1 to what longdx said. GM clear is fairly hard. If you do have some compounding marks or holos left after the 105, the 85RD may not have the chops to remove them in one application. yes, 85rd is meant for hard clears, but it`s meant to be a jeweling poilsh on hard clears and doesn`t have much cut for cleaning up compounding marks. A good compromise would be to use PO106FF after the M105, as it has a bit more oomph to it, yet still finishes down very well.

[imported_detail1]

Pics added

[wannafbody]

Depends on what polish you are using. Most polishes don`t have cleaners in them. DACP and ZPC are exceptions.



An AIO would act as a cleaner after polishing.

[imported_detail1]

Which of the following polishes would be best after Megs 105?



Menzerna IP

FPII

Megs 83

Megs 9

Poliseal

1Z Paint Polish



Or should i buy Megs 205 - i can get a small botle from ADS



I do plan on burnishing with PO85RD.

[ten39]

An AIO would act as a cleaner after polishing.



But why? What`s the point? Honest question.



If you clay, polish, and then ipa or wash a finish, I don`t understand why one needs to move to some sort of an AIO before the final wax or sealant.

[imported_detail1]

To chemically clean the paint. Last year, I forgot to use paint cleaner. I went through the whole process- wash, clay, IP and SIP, IPA and I still had some little black dots in the paint.

[Envious Eric]

I never use one...my process is usually 105 - 205 - FPII - sealant/wax or 105, SIP, FPII, wax



try out 83 vs 205, and 83 vs SIP...its worth the price difference (205/SIP) as I cannot get 83 to remove the defects and leave a decent finish in comparison...hence why i have a 100% full bottle of 83 I want to sell to someone who likes it...

[GoudyL]

This is all too complex. And especially for a white car??? Why even bother polishing it, when its not going go show paint defects if clean?



1. Wash + prespot with bug and tar remover as needed.

2. Clay, (do not use Bug and Tar remover as lube, it will disolve the clay)

3. Pre-wax cleaner (Use Mothers Prewax cleaner)

4. Re-wash



5. Some kind of light polish on a white pad. (Meg`s 205/SwirlX/KIT Scratch Out etc)

6. Turtle Wax Ice Liquid/(Paste + Ice QD)

7. A few hours later top with Lucas Slick Mist and buff with a clean MF towel.

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

This is all too complex. And especially for a white car??? Why even bother polishing it, when its not going go show paint defects if clean?



1. Wash + prespot with bug and tar remover as needed.

2. Clay, (do not use Bug and Tar remover as lube, it will disolve the clay)

3. Pre-wax cleaner (Use Mothers Prewax cleaner)

4. Re-wash



5. Some kind of light polish on a white pad. (Meg`s 205/SwirlX/KIT Scratch Out etc)

6. Turtle Wax Ice Liquid/(Paste + Ice QD)

7. A few hours later top with Lucas Slick Mist and buff with a clean MF towel.





I disagree with you GL.... Even though you may think white paint wont "show paint defects when clean" I know it will... you may have to look harder than a black car but they are there... And when they are there, light is refracting vs reflecting... A level clear is just as desirable on a white/silver light colored car :bolt



OT: to the OP, Your title asks if you need a paint cleaner yet the body of your post asks if you can go from M105 to 85rd..



I agree with what Accumulator said about you may think that M105 finishes nicely but in full sun you see the leftovers it leavs... SB is also correct regarding 85rd not being the right product to use as a clean up to M105... What other polishes do you have?

[GoudyL]

I disagree with you GL.... Even though you may think white paint wont "show paint defects when clean" I know it will... you may have to look harder than a black car but they are there... And when they are there, light is refracting vs reflecting... A level clear is just as desirable on a white/silver light colored car :bolt



If you are anal enough you will always find a paint defect to worry about. :buffing:



Assuming the white paint is clean, and reasonably smooth, you won`t see any paint defects due to the lack of constrast between defects (which tend to appear whitish) against the background field.



That`s the exact opposite of what happens with a highly polished black car, where everything contrasts



A clean white car is going to pass the 5 foot test with ease. Does a paint defect exist if you can`t see it? I doubt the OP needs anything more than a light polish ,if even that is called for, since Mothers pre-wax cleaner has some polishing ability itself.






I agree with what Accumulator said about you may think that M105 finishes nicely but in full sun you see the leftovers it leavs... SB is also correct regarding 85rd not being the right product to use as a clean up to M105... What other polishes do you have?



It`s compounding haze, something like SwirlX should be able to handle it with ease.

[mmarmarou]

I was actually just about to post a similar question. Is it ok to go straight from SIP to PO87? I`d rather not go to 106FA in between if I can help it. The SIP seemed to finish down nice. It`s a porsche, if that helps.



Thanks!

[DM101]

I use PO85RD, RMG, Souveran, Fuzion or Vintage.... Awesome