Poorboys Help

[bucket]

I recently purchased Poorboy`s SSR1, 2, and 3. I`ve mainly used 3M`s perfect-it series and I wanted to try something different just to learn about more products.



Anyway, I told one of my co-worker`s about my purchase and we agreed on a "educational price" on his Lexus IS250. His car was awash with swirls from going through car washes too much. I knew I could perfect it using 3M`s...uhh...perfect it.. :P but I wanted to learn.



I thought I could remove the swirls with SSR1, a lake county polishing pad and some medium pressure but the paint wasn`t having it. I ended up going all the way down to SSR3 and a yellow cutting pad on the Makita and working my way up from there (SSR2 to SSR1) and then topping with Dodo Juice (love it).



My problem is I had a hard time getting all of the Poorboy`s compounds/polishes to break down fast and even work fast...the whole car took me 7 hours compared to the 3-4 it would of taken me with 3M.



Any tips/suggestions on how to work with Poorboy`s? What speed on the Makita I should be using and how fast my buffer should be traveling. Maybe I`m using too much/too little product? I don`t know. I scratched my head for awhile and tried a few different ways...none seemed to make a difference.



(I`d post pics but I`m new here...car turned out decent anyway)

[steelwind101]

Hi



Unless you got the updated Poorboys product you are dealing with some older school stuff. SSR3 has huge abrasives in, SSR2.5 was probably the best product in that line, on the right paintwork it could cut well and finish out great.



The 3M line is better then the older Poorboys stuff (maybe the new ones too, i havent used them) thats most likely to be most of your story with regard the time consumption.



Geoff

[bucket]

Thanks for the quick reply.



Is there anyway to tell if I have the older stuff? (I don`t have SSR2.5)

I purchased all of them from AutoGeek just last week.

[PerroneFord]

LOL, old school stuff! :)



The Poorboy`s line is one of very few that can be used in full sunlight. Hot car, cold car, whatever. When you have a base that can stand up to that, it`s not going to break down quickly. This is why having more than one kind of polish can be helpful. Frankly, I buy Poorboys precisely because of it`s longer working time. I need products that can work in full sun.



How to tell if your SSR1 and SSR2 are old are new. Old SSR1 is pink like bubblegum and SSR2 is blue like cotton candy.

[bucket]

The Poorboy`s line is one of very few that can be used in full sunlight. Hot car, cold car, whatever. When you have a base that can stand up to that, it`s not going to break down quickly.



How to tell if your SSR1 and SSR2 are old are new. Old SSR1 is pink like bubblegum and SSR2 is blue like cotton candy.



That makes sense. I love the sun working ability. It was baking yesterday and half the car was in sun. Guess I`ll just save Poorboys for times when I know I`m gonna be in the sun (not often).



My SSR1 is yellow and my SSR2 is teal. Guess I have the new stuff.

[Setec Astronomy]

SSR1 (at least the older pink stuff) is a really fine polish and isn`t going to do any correction. The old SSR2 really became a superfluous product when SSR2.5 came out; SSR2.5 cut better and finished better than SSR2, but SSR2.5 does have some LSP`y stuff in it. And SSR3 is rocks in a bottle; glad you were able to get things to come out alright after using that.

[bucket]

glad you were able to get things to come out alright after using that.



I`ll see the car in full sunlight on Monday. So I`m kinda scared/interested to see what it *actually* turned out like. It looked pretty decent in the dwindling sunlight yesterday.

[Cholleman]

I used the SSR line (2.5, and 1) when i bought my 7424. They took out some of the finer scratches, but a lot of others remained. I was using 6.5 CCS pads and being my first time with the PC, i`m sure my technique wasn`t great (very little pressure applied) I`m thinking for my next go-`round, i`ll pick up some 105. I know 105 is like the second coming of Christ to some, but can the SSR`s do any real work without taking all day? I never really hear much about PB`s stuff on here.

[Setec Astronomy]

I know 105 is like the second coming to some, but can the SSR`s do any real work without taking all day? I never really hear much about PB`s stuff on here.



SSR3 will do correction very quickly, but as has been noted in other threads, is an "old school" "rocks in a bottle" compound which will leave a lot of marring which will have to be removed by subsequent steps. Arguably, that method will remove more paint than a "modern" compound like M105.



SSR2.5 is the polish I like best out of the SSR line. It has good initial cut but finishes out nicely. It does do some hiding because of the LSP`y component in it.

[PerroneFord]

I like the SSRs quite a lot. BUT when I do correction with the PC, I am using 4" pads. Earlier in the month, I had an owner hanging out with me while I was detailing and decided to remove a pesky small scratch. Took all of 30 seconds while he was watching me.



I hit it with IPA to make sure we had what it looked like we had, and it was fine. He was amazed.



Anyone who thinks they cannot do real correction with a PC needs to examine their techniques and polish choices. It`s not as fast as a rotary or Flex, but you can do it

[bucket]

I saw the car again today finally in full sun.



The sides looked good but I had to redo the hood, trunk, and C-pillars with 3M Ultrafina to remove buffer trails. Guess I moved too quick for that slow Poorboy`s. Kinda saps your confidence when you have a bad detail and you know you`re capable of alot more.



Anyway, any suggestions (all appreciated) as to something equal to 3M Perfect It?



Its been awhile since I used any Meguiar`s (used it in body shop class years back)...anything changed in the past 5 years?



Thank you.

[Setec Astronomy]

Yeah, Meg`s has changed in the past five years, they have their new SMUT or something abrasive technology which is used in M105/205 and a couple others. Your problem with that Lexus was the SSR3...it`s got rocks in it. If you had SSR2.5 you likely would have been fine. If you really need a compound, the Meg`s M105 is the latest and greatest, it`s a non-diminishing technology. Or you can try the not-quite-as-good OTC Ultimate Compound at your local Wal-Mart or other chain store.

[bucket]

Your problem with that Lexus was the SSR3...it`s got rocks in it.



A few others have described SSR3 that way and I think you`re all right on the money with description. Unless it really does have rocks in it... :think:






If you really need a compound, the Meg`s M105 is the latest and greatest, it`s a non-diminishing technology.



I`d like to try an entire line of compound, medium cut, and polish from Meg`s. Preferably not OTC stuff.



Its

m105 = compound

m01 = medium cut

m205 = polish



Right?

Is this a good combo from Meg`s?

Whats the breakdown time like on these?

[Setec Astronomy]

There is no breakdown, they are non-diminishing. There is no need for a medium cut with these, the small, sharp abrasives leave an excellent finish. The reported downsides are they are expensive and dust somewhat.



Disclaimer: I have not used these products.

[bucket]

There is no breakdown, they are non-diminishing. There is no need for a medium cut with these, the small, sharp abrasives leave an excellent finish.



Oh sweet. I guess I`ll give m105 and m205 a go sometime soon then. The dusting is not an issue for me.



Thank you very much for the quick response (and no matter you haven`t used em..with over 9,000 posts, I`m sure you`ve read enough on em` to get a good sense).:xyxthumbs