Help with list of products to accompany PC7424

[cuyoda]

I am a long time car care freak with plenty of basic knowledge. However, when it comes to wax time, I have always stuck with a fairly simply process. I usually clay bar followed by a coat of Meguiar`s NXT wax applied with a crappy 10" buffer that I inherited years ago.



My buffer recently died leaving me yearning to step up in the buffing world with a PC7424. However, I am not familar with the wide range of products available for the 7424. I have abviously never dived into the full sequence of proper paint cleaning, polishing, and protecting using a professional machine like the 7424, but would like to.



However, I need help in selection of proper pads and liquid cleaners/polishes/waxes for a novice 7424 user such as myself. I am happy with the NXT for the final step if I can keep it. Both of my cars are fairly new and in overall great shape, so I am looking for only light swirl and paint correction followed by good protection. As a side note, both cars are dark colored (black and dark blue).



Thanks.

[WaxManRonnie]

Pads:

Lake Country HP CCS 6.5" Pads 6-Pack Special (http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/lake-country-ccs-6-pack-special.html)



Here`s a great product for swirl removal. Comes in handy after a long winter.

Malco Rejuvenator Paint Restoration Wax Detail Pro:eBay Motors (item 110356622642 end time Jun-25-09 14:40:47 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Malco-Rejuvenator-Paint-Restoration-Wax-Detail-Pro_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2 Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3 a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem 19b1c46d32QQitemZ110356622642QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomot iveQ5fTools)



Another good polish:

Optimum Polish II (http://www.specialtymotoring.com/op-1003.html)



And for a final step:

Poorboy`s Natty`s Blue Paste Wax (http://www.specialtymotoring.com/pb-1037.html)

ClearKote Carnauba Moose Wax (http://www.specialtymotoring.com/ck-1014.html)

[Setec Astronomy]

This is such an open-ended question that I don`t think you can really get an answer. There are so many brands of chemicals, and many brands/styles/philosophies of pads, multiplied by so many vendors, that you are going to get endless combinations.



If you want to stick OTC with your chemicals, you can simply get Meguiar`s SwirlX and follow with NXT. You`ll want a couple of white pads and perhaps an orange. Most people seem to like the 5.5" with the PC these days, but 6, 6.5, or 7 are usable if you`re only looking to do light correction.

[cuyoda]

This is such an open-ended question that I don`t think you can really get an answer. There are so many brands of chemicals, and many brands/styles/philosophies of pads, multiplied by so many vendors, that you are going to get endless combinations.



If you want to stick OTC with your chemicals, you can simply get Meguiar`s SwirlX and follow with NXT. You`ll want a couple of white pads and perhaps an orange. Most people seem to like the 5.5" with the PC these days, but 6, 6.5, or 7 are usable if you`re only looking to do light correction.



Thanks. I was worried it was open ended. Thats whats causing my confusion: to many different products that seem to do similar things. Seems like it pretty much comes down to personal preferance on alot of things. And I don`t have a personal preferance, yet. So that leaves me spinning.



Has anyone had much experience with the Meguiar`s 3 step Deep Crystal system?



What about the Meguair`s "Professional Mirror Glaze" product line? Is it worth the extra cost of their OTC products?

[Accumulator]

Thanks. I was worried it was open ended. Thats whats causing my confusion: to many different products that seem to do similar things. Seems like it pretty much comes down to personal preferance on alot of things. And I don`t have a personal preferance, yet. So that leaves me spinning...



Understandable. FWIW, I find that 4" pads are *absolutely* the way to go for paint correction via PC. The larger ones are just time-wasters IME.




Has anyone had much experience with the Meguiar`s 3 step Deep Crystal system?



Not a *good* experience ;) You can do *MUCH* better.


What about the Meguair`s "Professional Mirror Glaze" product line? Is it worth the extra cost of their OTC products?



Generally yeah, IMO their pro stuff is a lot better than their consumer line (with a few exceptions).



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!

[Thats Fresh]

welcome. will you be buying your products online or at your local auto store?

[GS4_Fiend]

4 inch with Mezerna P0203S & P085RD.

[DM101]

Go to autogeek and watch some of the videos. They will get you started in the right direction.



Dual Action Orbital Polishers and pads: Porter Cable 7424 : Lake Country Buffing Foam Pads (http://autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html)

[cuyoda]

welcome. will you be buying your products online or at your local auto store?



Well, it doesn`t bother me to order online, as long as it doesn`t get overly expensive.

[cuyoda]

Understandable. FWIW, I find that 4" pads are *absolutely* the way to go for paint correction via PC. The larger ones are just time-wasters IME.





Not a *good* experience ;) You can do *MUCH* better.





Generally yeah, IMO their pro stuff is a lot better than their consumer line (with a few exceptions).



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!



Thanks, what would be *MUCH* better? Meguiar`s pro stuff and what else?

[cuyoda]

4 inch with Mezerna P0203S & P085RD.



Thanks, any experience with the Pinnacle brand of waxes and polishes?

[GoudyL]

This is such an open-ended question that I don`t think you can really get an answer. There are so many brands of chemicals, and many brands/styles/philosophies of pads, multiplied by so many vendors, that you are going to get endless combinations.



If you want to stick OTC with your chemicals, you can simply get Meguiar`s SwirlX and follow with NXT. You`ll want a couple of white pads and perhaps an orange. Most people seem to like the 5.5" with the PC these days, but 6, 6.5, or 7 are usable if you`re only looking to do light correction.



I say go for the G110 Kit, and use the new Softbuff 2.0 pads on a 6.5in backing plate.



The chemicals you need(?) are then Mother`s Pre-wax cleaner, and what ever wax you like on the Polishing and Finishing pads respectively.



As much as collecting Car care products is fun, a well maintained car really doesn`t need all that many. Don`t over think this. :)

[Accumulator]

I say go for the G110 Kit, and use the new Softbuff 2.0 pads on a 6.5in backing plate...



Differing opinion here; I always counsel that people get much smaller pads for use with the PC. I was unable to remove even *very* light marring from my Yukon using a Meguiar`s 6" polishing pad, even with M105. Large pads simply overload PCs IME, understandable as the machine was designed to spin a single sheet of sandpaper, which weighs a *LOT* less than a big foam pad wet with product.






The chemicals you need(?) are then Mother`s Pre-wax cleaner, and what ever wax you like on the Polishing and Finishing pads respectively.



Again, differing opinion here. While a pre-wax cleaner or even a good cleaner-wax, topped with some LSP (Last Step Product, i.e, "wax") can be an OK approach, if you`re gonna bother using a PC I`d use different products that`ll better take advantage of what the PC is capable of. Of course, I`d be judicious about how frequently and aggressively I employed those products.



cuyoda- Don`t take the preceding as an :argue where one of us is right and the other wrong, but rather as two differing options for your consideration.


Thanks, what would be *MUCH* better..[than the Meguiar`s consumer line products]? Meguiar`s pro stuff and what else?





Sorry I was so vague before, I didn`t have time for a proper response.



Some of the Meg`d pro products are just incredibly effective and user-friendly.



M105 for serious correction, followed by M205 or #80. The latter two can be good for relatively mild single-step polishing too.



The #80 is mild enough that you could use it instead of the Deep Crystal Step #1 Cleaner.



For "pure polishes" (as Meguiar`s calls them, others would call them "glazes"), the #5/#3/#81/#7 (listed in most-to-least user-friendly order) are *MUCH* better than the Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish.





The Pro line sealants (e.g., M21) are generally better regarded than NXT, but I haven`t tried them (preferring the discontinued #16 paste wax, great stuff if you can find it). NXT isn`t *bad* and if you like it then I`d just stick with it, at least for now.



Exceptions to my comment about the consumer line stuff- in the consumer line, the Ultimate Compound (a milder version of M105), the *v2.0* of Scratch-X, and Swirl-X are well-regarded though I haven`t tried them myself.



Other brands that can have their place include Menzerna (which I don`t use much), Optimum (which I hardly ever use and generally don`t care for), and 1Z (which I do use and *really* like), and..well, countless others. Personal preference certainly factors in and IMO you could do a *lot* worse than just sticking with Meguiar`s. No need to over-complicate this and I need to stop before I go on and on and make it overwhelming :o



Simple summary: I think I`d get Ultimate Coumpound for spot-repair of any serious marring, M205 or #80 for the general purpose polish, and top with your NXT. I used #80 and NXT on a dark blue metallic car and it worked OK by my standards, better-than-OK by the owner`s standards.



If keeping the black car marring-free is too daunting a task, you could try using #9 Swirlmark Remover v2.0. It`s *SO* gentle that it really does a lot more concealing than correcting, but that can be OK. It`s *kinda* like a combo of Deep Crystal steps 1 & 2. Again, top with NXT.




Thanks, any experience with the Pinnacle brand of waxes and polishes?



I`ve only used their older stuff, which is geared more towards pampered toys (and yeah, it`s good for that). I think I`d stick with Meguiar`s, at least for now.



I *really* think you oughta concentrate on the wash regimen so you don`t mar the paint. Nothing makes a bigger difference than having unmarred paint; reflecting light as opposed to refracting light is what makes a vehicle`s paint look good. Smooth-as-glass surfaces reflect, marred surfaces refract. And most marring happens during the wash.

[cuyoda]

Differing opinion here; I always counsel that people get much smaller pads for use with the PC. I was unable to remove even *very* light marring from my Yukon using a Meguiar`s 6" polishing pad, even with M105. Large pads simply overload PCs IME, understandable as the machine was designed to spin a single sheet of sandpaper, which weighs a *LOT* less than a big foam pad wet with product.









Again, differing opinion here. While a pre-wax cleaner or even a good cleaner-wax, topped with some LSP (Last Step Product, i.e, "wax") can be an OK approach, if you`re gonna bother using a PC I`d use different products that`ll better take advantage of what the PC is capable of. Of course, I`d be judicious about how frequently and aggressively I employed those products.



cuyoda- Don`t take the preceding as an :argue where one of us is right and the other wrong, but rather as two differing options for your consideration.







Sorry I was so vague before, I didn`t have time for a proper response.



Some of the Meg`d pro products are just incredibly effective and user-friendly.



M105 for serious correction, followed by M205 or #80. The latter two can be good for relatively mild single-step polishing too.



The #80 is mild enough that you could use it instead of the Deep Crystal Step #1 Cleaner.



For "pure polishes" (as Meguiar`s calls them, others would call them "glazes"), the #5/#3/#81/#7 (listed in most-to-least user-friendly order) are *MUCH* better than the Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish.





The Pro line sealants (e.g., M21) are generally better regarded than NXT, but I haven`t tried them (preferring the discontinued #16 paste wax, great stuff if you can find it). NXT isn`t *bad* and if you like it then I`d just stick with it, at least for now.



Exceptions to my comment about the consumer line stuff- in the consumer line, the Ultimate Compound (a milder version of M105), the *v2.0* of Scratch-X, and Swirl-X are well-regarded though I haven`t tried them myself.



Other brands that can have their place include Menzerna (which I don`t use much), Optimum (which I hardly ever use and generally don`t care for), and 1Z (which I do use and *really* like), and..well, countless others. Personal preference certainly factors in and IMO you could do a *lot* worse than just sticking with Meguiar`s. No need to over-complicate this and I need to stop before I go on and on and make it overwhelming :o



Simple summary: I think I`d get Ultimate Coumpound for spot-repair of any serious marring, M205 or #80 for the general purpose polish, and top with your NXT. I used #80 and NXT on a dark blue metallic car and it worked OK by my standards, better-than-OK by the owner`s standards.



If keeping the black car marring-free is too daunting a task, you could try using #9 Swirlmark Remover v2.0. It`s *SO* gentle that it really does a lot more concealing than correcting, but that can be OK. It`s *kinda* like a combo of Deep Crystal steps 1 & 2. Again, top with NXT.







I`ve only used their older stuff, which is geared more towards pampered toys (and yeah, it`s good for that). I think I`d stick with Meguiar`s, at least for now.



I *really* think you oughta concentrate on the wash regimen so you don`t mar the paint. Nothing makes a bigger difference than having unmarred paint; reflecting light as opposed to refracting light is what makes a vehicle`s paint look good. Smooth-as-glass surfaces reflect, marred surfaces refract. And most marring happens during the wash.



Thanks for the great response. Very helpful.

[GoudyL]

Accumulator is right about the importance of wash technique. I pretty much only do self-service pressure washing these days. And dirt on a well waxed car tends not to stick so much, and be much more susceptable to pre-soaks.



My take on the use of a PC is that its a good tool for applying and working mild chemicals. It makes it that much faster and more uniform.



Yes you can get the finish perfectly smooth, but doing so will involve removing alot of clearcoat. Which means that the next round of scratching will be that much deeper relative to the thinner layer of clearcoat left behind. To put things in perspective, the clearcoat is as thick as 2-3 sheets of office paper.



So for myself I think the technique is to use cleaner type chemicals which will both soften the edges of scratches and clean them of opaque dirt which makes them visible. At that point, a good silicone polish or wax, will be able to form a level surface over the paint.



It`s funny but if you prep the paint well, (clay it and pre-wax clean it) you can easily get the maximum performance from pure polishes e.g Turtle Wax ICE and QD top coats.