Waxing/polishing a new vehicle, how soon?

[HLxDrummer]

Like others have said, I wouldn`t let the dealer do it. I worked at a dealer in "new car get ready" last summer and wow. People burning paint, buffing without washing, smearing on wax sloppily,etc. If you don`t already know about the two bucket method, soft brushes/etc. I would research a lot.



As long as you wash your car carefully you shouldn`t swirl/marr the paint and you won`t have to polish as often (which is good since the paint can only take so much).



I would recommend washing, claying, and a good wax as others have said.



Edit: Nice looking truck! I would also recommend using an undercarriage spray in the wheel wells/etc. to help keep them nice and clean :)



I would also use Dawn before waxing. You shouldn`t use it a lot as it can dehydrate the paint, but it will get all of the old stuff off the paint so the new stuff can last longer. This is mainly important with certain types of products like Zaino, but you can probably get away with a regular wash in your case.



How do you like the truck so far?

[efnfast]

For everybody saying clay and then wax, I honestly have no ideas how you guys do it - I`ve yet to run into a car where clay (Meguiars OTC) doesn`t cause some minor bit or marring or scratching. I`ve always needed to follow clay with polish, no matter how careful I am (no, I havn`t tried kneeding the clay every 2 square inches though), and I`ve yet to ~see~ somebody do it 100% mark free either (yes, I know, here on autopia everybody clays to 100% and doesn`t have any leftover marks, even on bmw jet black ;) )

[Accumulator]

For everybody saying clay and then wax, I honestly have no ideas how you guys do it - I`ve yet to run into a car where clay (Meguiars OTC) doesn`t cause some minor bit or marring or scratching. I`ve always needed to follow clay with polish, no matter how careful I am (no, I havn`t tried kneeding the clay every 2 square inches though), and I`ve yet to ~see~ somebody do it 100% mark free either (yes, I know, here on autopia everybody clays to 100% and doesn`t have any leftover marks, even on bmw jet black ;) )



Maybe try a different clay and try different lubes. Heh heh, I`m not saying you can clay Jet Black or anything like that..but seriously, that oh-so-frequent kneading/replacing is simply a must if you really want to avoid the polishing.



I`ve never used the Meguiar`s clay, and I wonder if that has something to do with it. Wonder how you`d do with Griot`s or ClayMagic Blue :think:



Or clay something with Sonus green Ultra-fine using Glyde. As long as it`s not stupid-soft clear (and you knead it when it picks up something abrasive) you really should be OK. But that approach will be so mild that the clay will really just clean the LSP that`s already on there.



I really don`t mean to sound like a smart-@$$ regarding the kneading, hope I didn`t come across like a jerk. It`s just that the clay really does simply turn into sandpaper the second it picks up something abrasive. It might not be worth sweating...if you don`t mind polishing it might be a lot easier than struggling with some crazy "extreme claying" techniques.




Finally got around to ordering up some Collinite 845 which came in today, I know some have said just to wax right over the Meg`s cleaner/wax that I applied, is this the best option or should I try and remove it?



If it looks OK with the cleaner-wax on there (no need for polishing), just apply the 845 over top. Cleaner-wax topped with 845 is a decent combo.




If so, should Dawn dishsoap or something similar be ok to use?



If you do that, wash with normal shampoo first as the Dawn lacks lubricity and encapsulation and that might lead to marring. But I wouldn`t bother doing it.


What difference will it make if I just leave the Meg`s on?



IMO it`ll just save time, no real diff, no real downside.


Do I let the Collinite dry complelely before buffing off?



Yes. Shake it up until it`s thin as milk. If there`s a plug of semi-solid wax in the neck of the bottle, push it down into the rest of the product and shake some more. Shake shake shake, more than you think you need to.




And lastly to the person who said the Meg`s will get in my black trim and I said I never had a problem with it before? Well you were right, it is a bugger to get off, still not sure what is the best thing to use as you can still see it in places!!



There are products made just for this..."dried wax removers". Not sure where you`ll find them OTC/on short notice though. Note that the 845 does *NOT* stain trim, in fact I *use it* on trim. But you`ll need to clean the cleaner-wax off first.

[Kean]

For everybody saying clay and then wax, I honestly have no ideas how you guys do it - I`ve yet to run into a car where clay (Meguiars OTC) doesn`t cause some minor bit or marring or scratching. I`ve always needed to follow clay with polish, no matter how careful I am (no, I havn`t tried kneeding the clay every 2 square inches though), and I`ve yet to ~see~ somebody do it 100% mark free either (yes, I know, here on autopia everybody clays to 100% and doesn`t have any leftover marks, even on bmw jet black ;) ) ....something else to consider (in addition to what Accumulator mentioned) is the type of paint. Some finishes are simply harder than others and less susceptible to damage. A good example is the relatively soft paint found on Subarus. ....I own two of them (one black and the other gold). I suppose one good thing about it is that they are easy to correct requiring less time and less aggressive methods. On the flip side, the finish is vulnerable to scratches/damage and requires greater care during routine maintenance. I have used the typical OTC clays over the years (Meguiars, Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.). When I initially began claying my black Subaru, I had the same problem. The soft paint was an obvious factor but the solution was found in the use of a more/slicker lube and lighter pressure. Personally, I would look into a finer grade of clay as Accumulator suggested, better lube and perhaps a change in method. Also, try to be careful when making passes over body lines/ridges. If you`re having issues with marring while claying, you will likely have even more problems with these particular areas.

[irv]

If it looks OK with the cleaner-wax on there (no need for polishing), just apply the 845 over top. Cleaner-wax topped with 845 is a decent combo.







If you do that, wash with normal shampoo first as the Dawn lacks lubricity and encapsulation and that might lead to marring. But I wouldn`t bother doing it.





IMO it`ll just save time, no real diff, no real downside.





Yes. Shake it up until it`s thin as milk. If there`s a plug of semi-solid wax in the neck of the bottle, push it down into the rest of the product and shake some more. Shake shake shake, more than you think you need to.







There are products made just for this..."dried wax removers". Not sure where you`ll find them OTC/on short notice though. Note that the 845 does *NOT* stain trim, in fact I *use it* on trim. But you`ll need to clean the cleaner-wax off first.[/QUOTE]

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Thanks Accumulator, that is good to know. Just out of curiousity, do you use my pics as a decision maker or is it too hard to tell from them whether the trucks surface looks decent enough to avoid removing the Meg`s? (probably a stupid question but I have to know?)

I am looking forward to putting on the Collinite 845 from everything I have heard about it! I did shake the heck out of it last night as it looked quite settled to me and it did turn milky, glad to know that is the way it should be applied.

Thanks again :).........Irv

[Accumulator]

... Just out of curiousity, do you use my pics as a decision maker or is it too hard to tell from them whether the trucks surface looks decent enough to avoid removing the Meg`s? (probably a stupid question but I have to know?)



To be honest, I seldom base *anything* on internet pics. I can`t really tell anything at all about your paint`s condition. Heh heh, I find it hard enough to evaluate paint *in person*, let alone over the `net, so this isn`t a criticism of your pictures.



I`m approaching it this way- it`s apparently good enough *FOR YOU* and IMO that`s all that matters. Despite the prevailing attitude here at Autopia that only perfection is acceptable, I just want people to be happy with our their vehicles look *to them*.



If you ever decide that you want to, say....do some polishing, or otherwise make this a lot more complicated, I`ll be happy to offer advice on how to do it without driving yourself nuts. But it sounds like you`re OK with how it looks with just the cleaner-wax on it, so that`s cool with me. Polishing is a pretty big undertaking and I`d only open that can of worms if/when you think it`s necessary.

[smokin180]

I agree with Accumulator he is right.

[irv]

To be honest, I seldom base *anything* on internet pics. I can`t really tell anything at all about your paint`s condition. Heh heh, I find it hard enough to evaluate paint *in person*, let alone over the `net, so this isn`t a criticism of your pictures.



I`m approaching it this way- it`s apparently good enough *FOR YOU* and IMO that`s all that matters. Despite the prevailing attitude here at Autopia that only perfection is acceptable, I just want people to be happy with our their vehicles look *to them*.



If you ever decide that you want to, say....do some polishing, or otherwise make this a lot more complicated, I`ll be happy to offer advice on how to do it without driving yourself nuts. But it sounds like you`re OK with how it looks with just the cleaner-wax on it, so that`s cool with me. Polishing is a pretty big undertaking and I`d only open that can of worms if/when you think it`s necessary.



Thanks Accumulator, I agree 100%. Although I would like to try and get it to look the best it possibly could, I know the work/mtce required to do so!

I also know I would be come a paranoid freak everytime I had to park it somewhere other than my own driveway.

I have always always gotten compliments about any vehicle I have ever owened, mostly by complete strangers so I know I must be doing something right?

I do keep my vehicles clean and usually try to put wax on a couple times a year, I will continue to follow this procedure with my new truck and I am pretty sure the compliments will be coming very shortly as well?

Thanks for all your help, you have been great :bigups

[Accumulator]

irv- Glad to help. I drove my Yukon the other day and was thinking to myself that the Carbon Metallic really *is* one very cool color for these big vehicles, and the Collinite looks mighty good on it.

[irv]

irv- Glad to help. I drove my Yukon the other day and was thinking to myself that the Carbon Metallic really *is* one very cool color for these big vehicles, and the Collinite looks mighty good on it.



Good to hear, I can`t wait to get some on there, just wish the weather would co-operate :sadpace:



In the thread you replied to about how to "properly apply Collinite #476" above/below this one, do I apply the 845 the same way, a thin light coat with a damp applicator, let it completely dry then wipe off? Thanks again...........Irv

[Accumulator]

In the thread you replied to about how to "properly apply Collinite #476" above/below this one, do I apply the 845 the same way, a thin light coat with a damp applicator, let it completely dry then wipe off?



Not quite. With ehe 845 you don`t pre-dampen the applicator, just prime it with the 845 (only). Don`t get the applicator really *wet* with product, use just enough that it moves smoothly across the paint as opposed to grabbing; you can alway add more as soon as it`s needed so try to keep the applicator as dry as possible while still gliding across the paint.



When you`re finished I predict you`ll be able to squeeze a lot of 845 out of your applicator ;) It`s like a test.. whether you used an excessive amount.



Yeah, apply thin but it`s not a *huge* deal with 845 (that`s one of the things that makes it idiot-proof).



Let it dry until it passes the finger-swipe test (wipes off clean and dry with no smearing). Buff off gently with a soft MF.



I pretty much *always* fog the surface with my breath when buffing off LSPs (of any kind) but that`s just me and I don`t think it`s all that necessary.



I`m confident it`ll go well.

[irv]

Not quite. With ehe 845 you don`t pre-dampen the applicator, just prime it with the 845 (only). Don`t get the applicator really *wet* with product, use just enough that it moves smoothly across the paint as opposed to grabbing; you can alway add more as soon as it`s needed so try to keep the applicator as dry as possible while still gliding across the paint.



When you`re finished I predict you`ll be able to squeeze a lot of 845 out of your applicator ;) It`s like a test.. whether you used an excessive amount.



Yeah, apply thin but it`s not a *huge* deal with 845 (that`s one of the things that makes it idiot-proof).



Let it dry until it passes the finger-swipe test (wipes off clean and dry with no smearing). Buff off gently with a soft MF.



I pretty much *always* fog the surface with my breath when buffing off LSPs (of any kind) but that`s just me and I don`t think it`s all that necessary.



I`m confident it`ll go well.



Thanks again Accumulator, another rainy cold day again today so another day/wknd lost :wall

Sorry, I am not picking up the *always* fog the surface thing with my breath? What exactly are you looking for or trying to achieve?

Also, when washing a vehicle do you recommend cold, warm or hot water? I have always used warm water and used Turtle Wax car wash soap, seems to work good, lots of suds and puts a bit of a shine back on the surface.

[Accumulator]

Sorry, I am not picking up the *always* fog the surface thing with my breath? What exactly are you looking for or trying to achieve?



The little bit of condensation a) makes it easy to see where you do/don`t have that ultra-thin layer of unbuffed product, and b) makes it a little easier to buff said residue off. It might even help make for a less streaky result in some cases.




Also, when washing a vehicle do you recommend cold, warm or hot water? I have always used warm water and used Turtle Wax car wash soap, seems to work good, lots of suds and puts a bit of a shine back on the surface.



I use warm. I`d use a better shampoo though...TW lacks lubricity and encapsulation characteristics compared to better shampoos and those can make a bid diff with regard to wash-induced marring.



I used to use TW ZipWax and other cheapie washes, but I decided that better shampoos are definitely money well-spent.



I`d at least upgrade to Gold Class or AquaWax. I myself spend a bundle on Griot`s Car Wash and for me it`s worth every penny.

[bcwang]

I wonder if the "fog" from the breath can wreak havoc on those sealants which require curing time and request that it stay completely dry for 12 hours or more, including from dew.

[Accumulator]

I wonder if the "fog" from the breath can wreak havoc on those sealants which require curing time and request that it stay completely dry for 12 hours or more, including from dew.



Never caused any problems for me, sure doesn`t have any detrimental effect on KSG, BF, UPP, or FK1000P