Help on hand swirl removal, and my LSP process

[danman589019]

Hi, I have a couple questions for anyone who can offer advice. I will be working on a new Mazda 3 with Velocity Red paint. Being new, it`s in good condition but there is minor swirls I would like to improve if I can. I don`t have a DA, but here`s what I do have as far as polishing/swirl removal goes:



Polishin` Pal (http://www.autogeek.net/polishing-pal.html)with orange, white, and red pads

P21S Paintwork Cleanser

KAIO



Now for the second question. After I wash (ONR), clay, and do some type of polish/clean with the above as recommended by you autopians. What would be a good LSP process with these products:



Opti-Seal

OCW

Collinite 476s

Poorboy`s Natty Paste Wax



I was thinking doing wash, clay, KAIO, Opti-Seal, Collinite. Sound good? What would you recommend I change about that? Also, I`m using the Collinite because I want nice long-term protection. Is there a protect I could put on top of that to boost shine periodically, like my OCW, or would I just be better doing another layer of Collinite?



Thanks for any help

[Accumulator]

Hi, I have a couple questions for anyone who can offer advice. I will be working on a new Mazda 3 with Velocity Red paint. Being new, it`s in good condition but there is minor swirls I would like to improve if I can. I don`t have a DA, but here`s what I do have as far as polishing/swirl removal goes:



Polishin` Pal (http://www.autogeek.net/polishing-pal.html)with orange, white, and red pads

P21S Paintwork Cleanser

KAIO..



While Mazda clear isn`t all that hard IME, you`ll still need something a bit more abrasive than any of the above if you want to correct its marring.



The P21s cleanser is too mild to accomplish much and the KAIO will strip off what the P21s leaves behind. The two products are not, IMO, compatible.



And none of your products are, IMO, suited for use with orange pads, which I only use with fairly aggressive products and while will, IME, require a milder follow-up, especially on softer clear.



So...I`d get something like Meg`s Scratch-X 2.0 or Swirl-X and see how that works.






Now for the second question. After I wash (ONR), clay, and do some type of polish/clean with the above as recommended by you autopians. What would be a good LSP process with these products:



Opti-Seal

OCW

Collinite 476s

Poorboy`s Natty Paste Wax



I was thinking doing wash, clay, KAIO, Opti-Seal, Collinite. Sound good? What would you recommend I change about that? Also, I`m using the Collinite because I want nice long-term protection. Is there a protect I could put on top of that to boost shine periodically, like my OCW, or would I just be better doing another layer of Collinite?



I`m not familiar with Opti-Seal, but I don`t *think* there`s any need to use KAIO *and* Opti-Seal *and* then Collinite.



This is like using both P21s cleanser and KAIO...too many products that are too similar.



Also, I`ve only seen very minor improvements from using other products over 476S, and it required rather laborious spit-shining.



Adding a second coat of 476S can be problematic too, as many people experience pseudo-holograms apparently caused by the solvents in the wax acting on the previous application. If you want to add a second coat, I`d wait a week or two. Fortunately, once coat of 476S will protect just fine for a long, long time.



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!

[danman589019]

Sorry for the long delay in replying. I`ve had some technical problems on my end.




While Mazda clear isn`t all that hard IME, you`ll still need something a bit more abrasive than any of the above if you want to correct its marring.



The P21s cleanser is too mild to accomplish much and the KAIO will strip off what the P21s leaves behind. The two products are not, IMO, compatible.



And none of your products are, IMO, suited for use with orange pads, which I only use with fairly aggressive products and while will, IME, require a milder follow-up, especially on softer clear.



So...I`d get something like Meg`s Scratch-X 2.0 or Swirl-X and see how that works.



I picked up some Swirl-X. The directions say foam pad or terry cloth (no thanks) for hand app, and a polishing pad for DA. Should I use the white or red Polishin Pal pad with this?






I`m not familiar with Opti-Seal, but I don`t *think* there`s any need to use KAIO *and* Opti-Seal *and* then Collinite.



This is like using both P21s cleanser and KAIO...too many products that are too similar.



Also, I`ve only seen very minor improvements from using other products over 476S, and it required rather laborious spit-shining.



Adding a second coat of 476S can be problematic too, as many people experience pseudo-holograms apparently caused by the solvents in the wax acting on the previous application. If you want to add a second coat, I`d wait a week or two. Fortunately, once coat of 476S will protect just fine for a long, long time.



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!



Thanks for the advice on my sealants/waxes.

[mborner]

I think you will soon discover that, after doing a single panel, say, the hood, by hand, and getting it perfect, you will not want to do the rest of the car that way. Nobody here, and I mean nobody, does paint correction by hand. You will need to get a machine if you are even the slightest bit serious.

[Accumulator]

..I picked up some Swirl-X. The directions say foam pad or terry cloth (no thanks) for hand app, and a polishing pad for DA. Should I use the white or red Polishin Pal pad with this?.



Sorry, but I just don`t know about the stuff in the Polishing Pal kit :nixweiss



I`m gonna take a guess and say that you`ll need to use the more aggressive of the two. And as noted, this is gonna be long, hard work. Don`t be surprised if you end up needing the Ultimate Compound, even on that Mazda clear.