Wet sanding buffing help with how to and products

[200horse]

I am opening up a body and paint supply company selling to body shops.Yes you all know we body and paint guys mostly buff like crap lol.Thats why I am here to find new products (people to buy them from) and ways to help my customers from pros like you guys





I am looking for something new/different besides the expensive 3m stuff everyone is use to. Here are 2 different ways some people wetsand and or sand and buff. We in the bodyshop trade are not as professional as most of you so this is why I am asking you.



One way guys sand and buff is with 1200-1500 grit then they use heavier cut compond then polish. Is there a better way ? what pads and compound do you requiment for this?





second way is I have some shops useing the eagle stuff and can go up to 2500-3000 grit before polishing or light compound. Which pads and polish and or compound do you recommend when doing it this way??



What about system one? solo? good bad the ugly??



Again both ways will be with fresh paint.



Thanks for all the help ahead of time. After reading this site you guys make us body and paint guys look like fools buffing.

[200horse]

anyone have any ideas here??

[Drsuce]

here is a thread with some of the best wetsanding i`ve ever seen...



http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/114757-dsms-detail-vengeful-girlfriends.html

[PorscheGuy997]

Have you looked into the Mirka line?



The Abranet Soft is a new kid on the block, but is my favorite abrasive to use. It levels better than most of the other abrasive disks.



3M Trizact 1500 and 3000 are fantastic. I`m sure we will see more about these product in the coming months.





Most of the time, I will level the paint with 1500 and then move up to 2500 or 3000. This really makes it easier to remove the marks. You can remove the 1500 marks, but it may take more time.



If you are working on fresh paint, the Solo line is a great choice. It is very easy to use and is basically bulletproof. M105 is also a good idea, but it can be trickier to remove.

[200horse]

Drsuce thanks for the link so now who carrys he gloss it??



Porscheguy I am selling eagle now I would imagine its like mirka. Have you tried the solo yourself?? Wouldnt mind more imputin that and maybe a wholesaler on here where i could maybe buy some



thanks

[wannafbody]

Stock Megs Unigrit sand paper, M105 and M205



The Solo line is also sold as a boxed kit.

[Scottwax]

Stock Megs Unigrit sand paper, M105 and M205



The Solo line is also sold as a boxed kit.



I agree. Probably throw some 3M products in too, especially Ultrafina. I have a friend who owns a body shop and since he switched to using #105 and Ultrafina (not sure what his middle step is) he says his shop is turning out hologram free cars. Not that they had a huge problem before but he says finishing with Ultrafina makes the process nearly goof-proof.

[Flashtime]

I own a small body shop and i`m here to learn and be more efficient. And i am.

You`re absolutely right about most body shops not being able to cut and polish

swirl free. (I`d say at least 90%.)



In collision repair/refinishing, a perfect gun finish is almost unheard of as it is

difficult to spray in a sterile booth. And i high volume shops, regardless of the

high-tech facilities, nibs are to be expected. Insurers generally do allow for

a "denib and finesse" or "finish sand and polish" in the estimates. Well, nibs

are to be expected in most shops as the environment is not like a hospital.

Shops don`t tell their customers of this fact and customers - pro detailers

included - expect perfect factory like finish; generally speaking.



200horse,



There`s too much to say, really. And there`s plenty of good products out

there. But it`s not so much about the products, rather, it`s how to use them

properly... You`ll likely be moving mostly 3M products and less of anything

else. Meguiars Unitgrit papers (and Eagle) are superior to 3M but there will

be less demand for them.

[Flashtime]

I agree. Probably throw some 3M products in too, especially Ultrafina. I have a friend who owns a body shop and since he switched to using #105 and Ultrafina (not sure what his middle step is) he says his shop is turning out hologram free cars. Not that they had a huge problem before but he says finishing with Ultrafina makes the process nearly goof-proof.



I must be the guy! I`m using Menzerna IP or M205 for the middle step.

Didn`t care for M105 at first, but now, after much reading and practicing,

M105 is working great for me. Basically, i use a LOT of the product at

lower rpm`s. I`m working on a write-up for my fellow body shop guys

on another forum. Need to work on a few more combinations...

[the other pc]

...I am selling eagle now I would imagine its like mirka. ...



Abrasives differ can greatly from one company to the next. Mirka’s Abranet and Abralon are especially different.



I would suggest contacting Mirka (http://www.mirka-usa.com/) directly to see if there’s a factory rep in your area who can arrange a demonstration of their products and hook you up with a local distrib.



I would also agree that you should check out Meg’s So1o system. As you mentioned, body shops aren’t usually interested in implementing as sophisticated a process as a craftsman detailer might. They need it fast, simple to do and easy to train. The So1o system was specifically designed to make the high volume body shop’s life easier by minimizing the number of different chemicals (one) and pads required (plus, you never have to worry about cross-contaminating your polishing pads with compounds, etc).





pc.

[200horse]

Abrasives differ can greatly from one company to the next. Mirka’s Abranet and Abralon are especially different.



I would suggest contacting Mirka (http://www.mirka-usa.com/) directly to see if there’s a factory rep in your area who can arrange a demonstration of their products and hook you up with a local distrib.



I would also agree that you should check out Meg’s So1o system. As you mentioned, body shops aren’t usually interested in implementing as sophisticated a process as a craftsman detailer might. They need it fast, simple to do and easy to train. The So1o system was specifically designed to make the high volume body shop’s life easier by minimizing the number of different chemicals (one) and pads required (plus, you never have to worry about cross-contaminating your polishing pads with compounds, etc).





pc.





After using Eagle and using mirka I want nothing to do with mirka thats just my opinion. I think eagle is far sueperior to mirka. Thanks I will keep my eye on mirka just incase tho.



Now I do need to check this solo stuff out is there a wholesale supplier on here?

What pads would work with the solo system?



I dont want to carry 3m and pay for Jeff Gordons car !!!!



again thanks for all the ideas

[the other pc]

So1o is available from any distributor that carries Meguiar’s professional products. The So1o system (http://www.meguiars.com/solo/) has its own wool and foam pads. It’s intended as an inclusive system but there’s nothing stopping you from using other pads. I usually get Meg’s pro stuff from ADS (http://www.autopia.org/directory/Auto-Detailing-Solutions.html).



If you’re going to steer clear of 3M you’ll probably be spending a lot of time educating customers. Most of the industry seems to have a “that’s the way I learned so that’s the way it’s done� attitude and since an awful lot of guys first learned on 3M they’ll be slow to change. I think shops that actively experiment, learn and grow like Flashtime’s are in the minority.



Do you know which Mirka abrasives you tried? It could be that somebody supplied you with abrasives designed for wood or something other than paint finish sanding. They make a lot of different products.





pc.

[200horse]

So1o is available from any distributor that carries Meguiar’s professional products. The So1o system (http://www.meguiars.com/solo/) has its own wool and foam pads. It’s intended as an inclusive system but there’s nothing stopping you from using other pads. I usually get Meg’s pro stuff from ADS (http://www.autopia.org/directory/Auto-Detailing-Solutions.html).



If you’re going to steer clear of 3M you’ll probably be spending a lot of time educating customers. Most of the industry seems to have a “that’s the way I learned so that’s the way it’s done� attitude and since an awful lot of guys first learned on 3M they’ll be slow to change. I think shops that actively experiment, learn and grow like Flashtime’s are in the minority.



Do you know which Mirka abrasives you tried? It could be that somebody supplied you with abrasives designed for wood or something other than paint finish sanding. They make a lot of different products.





pc.



I had no idea what i used with Mirka. I am also not impressed with the rep. The eagle rep impressed me way more then Mirka so that had something to do with it. I feel when you are selling a product you need a great rep to stand behind you.



I am smart enough to know we werent useing sandpaper that was intended to use on wood.



Thats my job to train people and show them different options thats how I make my money.



I do have alot of mag. pads i guess i will pick up some solo and try that.



Any idea wheere to buy the pad that one side is wool type and other is foam?? With the quick disconnect??



thanks

[David Fermani]

A body shop`s best friend is the Trizact twins via DA sander. When body shops reduce their need/exposure to heavy compounds by sanding down to finer scratches, it makes for less comebacks. I know of tons that have great sucess following this methodology.

[200horse]

A body shop`s best friend is the Trizact twins via DA sander. When body shops reduce their need/exposure to heavy compounds by sanding down to finer scratches, it makes for less comebacks. I know of tons that have great sucess following this methodology.







I agree 100% with you kinda why I been trying to push some of the new eagle sandpaper stuff.