question abuot swirl remover

[tpsolid]

I spent $$$ paying other people to detail my car and i decided to do it myself to keep cost down.



I have a black Audi A3 which is parked outside 24-7 so the paint is not soo great from weather damage.



I ordered a meguiars g110 with some LC pads and started this weekend.



My problem is with swirl remover making more swirls than before.



I washed car.

clay the paint

used G110

orange pad + menuiars swirl remover 2.0 on 5 setting



After i worked it in and whipped off the residue and checked my work. I see more micro swirling than before I started to polish. Also the paint looks more cloudy than before.



Any suggestions or feedback?

[craigdt]

Well in my opinion, the problem comes with the pad you are using. An orange LC pad is typically used for more aggressive polishing/compounding. The polish you are using isnt that aggressive of a polish to begin with.



I would try the #9 on the orange, then go over the area again with a polishing pad. (LC white) The more aggressive orange pad will tend to leave micro marring.

The polishing pad should take care of it.

[Dsoto87]

What exactly is swirl remover? Link?



Are you talking about scratchx 2.0 or Swirlx?



Whatever the product is, not many will finish down on an orange pad on black paint LSP ready. Try going over the spot again with a white pad.

[craigdt]

My guess was meguiars swirl remover 2.0

Meguiar`s Direct Swirl Remover - (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+SWIRL+16)



But I didnt even think about swirlx/scratchx

[BigJimZ28]

What exactly is swirl remover? Link?



Meguiar`s Direct Swirl Remover - (http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+SWIRL+1)

[tpsolid]

i am using meguiars #9 on the orange.



so try #9 on orange then #9 on a polishing pad(white)?

[craigdt]

Yeah. The orange pads usually dont leave a defect free finish, due to their aggessive nature.



If the swirls arent really bad, you might be able to simply use the #9 on the polishing pad, and be LSP ready.



Best of luck!

[Dsoto87]

Thanks craig, I completely forgot about that product even though I see it all the time at the automotive shops.



Well Ive never used it but one thing to be sure is, are you breaking down the polish all the way?



It also has a pretty low cut. Im not one that usually likes to use low cut polishes with higher cut pads.

[BigJimZ28]

IMO #9 has very little cut and is as much a glaze as it is a polish



I would use something with more cut on the orange pad

then #9 on a polishing/finishing pad

[tpsolid]

The kit I bought also came with a meguiars #105. Is that too much cut? I see the bottle has the bar all the way to the top?



Can you guys recommend me something with more cut?





How long does it take to break down the polish? I run it for maybe 2-3 min? Is that too long or too short?

[craigdt]

Ooh you got the 105! go for it. That new 105 is one of the hottest new products right now. There are some good threads about it floating around.



I would pick a small test spot, and play with it a bit, with both a cutting pad and polishing pad.



Once you finish with the #9, you should have a pretty nice finish.



There are a lot of guys (and I think Jim might be one of them) that have a lot of experience with 105, so they could probably provide more specific details.

[Accumulator]

tpsolid- I wouldn`t bother using the #9 on an Audi at all, complete waste of time IMO.



Not sure why you had *more* marring than before :confused: Can`t help but wonder if you worked the product long enough and/or whether your MFs are soft enough (and maybe whether you really got all the dirt off the finish first). Maybe the new marring happened when you did the claying :nixweiss



And for future reference that #9/orange combo is the wrong way to go. Don`t match a mild product with an aggressive pad, it`ll hardly *EVER* work out well. Much better to use an aggressive product with a mild pad (when that`s what`s called for). But again, on an Audi you might as well toss the #9 unless you want to use it as a glaze (and I wouldn`t do that on that paint).



On an Audi I`d absolutely start with the M105, probably on an orange pad and I`d use that until it looked great or until you started worrying about the thickness of your clear (probably not much of a concern). I`d probably follow up with one pass using M105 on a milder pad before switching to a milder product. It can take a few passes with M105 to correct Audi clear.



If things get worse instead of better then either a) you`re doing something very wrong or b) there`s something weird going on related to that particular car. Do a small area and check your work under good lighting. Get one area sorted out so you know what works/doesn`t.



After the M105 I`d go with Scratch-X 2.0, or Swirl-X, or M205, or #80. I`d use a polishing pad with any of these. But I sure wouldn`t switch to that from the M105 until the finish was basically as good as you want it.



M105 finishes out *VERY* nicely on Audi clear, ought be so nice that you might think it`s ready-to-wax (until you refine it and see it looking even better).

[tpsolid]

accumulator: thanks for the information. I will try again next week.