PDA

View Full Version : Having some problems getting my 95` cherokee paint gorgeous



iDetail
03-24-2009, 12:51 PM
I have a 1995 white Jeep Cherokee. What I love about it is that I do not think that it has ever been detailed. I took the clay bar to the roof and hood just to see what I was dealing with and OMG there was soo much stuff in the paint. It was unreal - unlike any other car I`ve worked on. So I am excited to see the end product.



Here is my problem, Im having trouble getting out all the swirl marks / fine scratches. In my "early days" of detailing I probably would have wet sanded the entire hood - then buffed. But I have a feeling thats the lazy mans way of doing it and I think I would take off way more clear coat than needed. What makes me think I am doing something wrong is I am using lots of product (expensive product) with little results. I would say I spent a good 45-50 min compounding one door - JUST COMPOUNDING!



This is what I am using:



Chicago Electric 7" Polisher (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92623&xcamp=google&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=92623)



I know its not `name brand` but im a poor student who is addicted to making paint look as good as possible - I look at it like this, its an upgrade from my pep boys rotary buffer (which i used till it caught fire mid use) but there are still better buffers out there, so my future is still bright.



I dont have any after market pads for it (which im thinking is my problem) so all I am working with is the foam pad it came with and the wool bonet (god damn i hate bonets)



So I throw on the wool bonet and throw on some 3M Super Duty Compound (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=624&BASE), I keep it on a somewhat low speed but apply a good amount of pressure, I keep the pressure on for maybe a min or two and then i increase the speed and release some of the pressure.



Then, once I feel that all the scratches are at a uniform size I wash the pad off - throw it in the dyer - then put the clean bonet back on and apply some Meguires #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 (http://www.detailyourcar.com/meguiars-swirl-remover-gallon-p-510.html). I use the same process as the compound - pressure at low rpm at first then less pressure and higher rpm in the end.



Then after that I take off the bonet and apply some of the same swirl remover to the foam pad and repeat.



I seem to be using a lot of product. Here are some of my basic questions ive been wondering about for a long time:



-When I lay a bead of product down on the paint (lets say the hood) how long can I work with the product before I need to apply more?



-As for pads are concerned - should i be looking into buying up some more aggressive and less aggressive pads? Or is product choice and technique everything? I just don`t want to buy up a bunch of pads, thinking that is my problem, and then find the same results as before.



I dont know if any of you have working on Jeep`s before but if you can remember your process could you tell me what worked out good for you.



I do remember someone saying something about the purple wool pad and said that had quite some bite. I think my biggest problem is just getting the clear coat to a uniform finish - buffing that is easy - but getting it to that state seems to be the part that is posing to be difficult.

WhiteStripes
03-24-2009, 02:00 PM
You`ve most likely got single stage paint. No clear coat. Problem with white SS paint is that Titanium Dioxide is the pigmentation for it which leaves it as a very hard paint.



Also, yeah, you`ll want better pads. I know those wool bonnets don`t do anything because I`ve seen them fail to remove oxidization on soft clear cars. Also, you`ll want to run it at around 1200-1300 RPM I believe. I`m not a rotary user, so if one of the other guys could chime in and give you a definite answer on that, then cool.



Never used that compound myself, but it seems like it should do the trick once you get some good pads for the buffer.

Mobilejay
03-24-2009, 02:04 PM
You are definetely going to need the right products ie: pads and buffer. You can have the right product and technique but if you are pairing with the wrong pads that could be your problem. Its like using a compound with a finishing pad, its not going to get you where you want to be.

WhiteStripes
03-24-2009, 02:10 PM
A lesson from White Paint (http://www.autopia.org/publish/articles/41/1/A-Lesson-From-White-Paint/Page1.html)



Check that out. Good read.

iDetail
03-24-2009, 03:53 PM
A lesson from White Paint (http://www.autopia.org/publish/articles/41/1/A-Lesson-From-White-Paint/Page1.html)



Check that out. Good read.



haha, why did i buy a white car!?!



thanks for the link - it was interesting.