Elite Detailer`s Secrets...

[Fishman]

A few years ago, my ex-girlfriend`s brother in law showed me how to detail a car. He used to work at an elite detailer in or near New York City and in 2004, his 1997 Boxster won a car show which was impressive to me because there were quite a few brand new cars entered in that event. These are three of the tips he gave me let me know what you think, I`m no longer with his sister in law and I was never that close to him anyway, so if you think these ideas are wrong, let me know.



Tip #1 plane glass with a 0000 gauge steel wool. He had the fine gauge steel wool and rubbed the windshield which really did seem to make a difference in that bugs and dirt didn`t stick as much to the windshield. He said it`s almost like Rain-X but won`t make the wipers squeek.



Tip #2 don`t use car wash soap. He believed that car wash soap dries a car`s paint so if he had to wet wash a car (normally he used a spray wax) he would just wet a lambswool mitt and wip the dirt off the car, then dry it and then use the spray wax. I noticed subsequently that when I use Zaino Z-7 car wash, that the paint does feel less slick, maybe that is because the soap dries the paint or at least dries the wax on the paint...? I don`t know what do you guys think?



Tip #3 after you wax a car with paste wax if that`s what you choose to use, mist the car with water in a spray bottle and rub the water in and that will make it look a lot better. Now that I use Zaino, that reminds me of the Z-6 in between coats of Z-2 or Z-5.



Anyway, does anyone have any comments on these techniques?

[jordanrossbell]

I can definitely understand #1 and #3...but i dont get #2, how could you not use car soap? I think even Dawn drying out paint has been debunked for the most part, but there are a lot of good soaps on the market that wont "dry" out your paint. But then again that is just my opinion...thanks for sharing these.

[Todd@RUPES]

I would bet that the company your brother worked for didn`t really focus on swirl marks and paint restoration, given that process number two will absolutely scratch and swirl paint.



Always use a gentle car soap. If you have wax or sealant on the paint (creating a barrier) how can you damage the paint underneath.



Detail sprays add slickness to the paint, hence the slicker feel.

[Accumulator]

fishman- I`ll comment on those:



1) Using steel wool and/or a *metal* razor blade on glass is an old-school technique that can bit you these days. Today`s autoglass is *VERY* different from the stuff they used to use and some of the softer glass can be marred by those techniques (which is one reason why the make plastic razor blades). Even the older Tri-Plex glass on my Jag would be ruined by steel wool (yeah, even the 0000 stuff). Instead of steel wool I use a "bug sponge` on glass.



I use a steel razor blad on our household glass, and it works fine, but it`s not impossible to have an "oops!" on that glass either.



2) The shampoo-less wash is another old-school idea whose time has long passed.



The owner`s manual for my Jag says to do it that way, and so does a 20-some year old pamphlet about detailing from the Malm`s wax folks.



Some of us have been shampooing the same paint on the same cars for decades, and no it doesn`t hurt anything. If you use the right shampoo (for the LSP in question), at the right concentration (not too weak to clean or so strong that it strips the LSP), with the right dwell time (same considerations), and a thorough rinsing, the LSP oughta still feel nice and slick. Note that bare/unwaxed paint simply isn`t very slick anyhow; it`s more like squeaky-clean. If your shampooing strips the wax that might be what you`ll get.



Matching the shampoo to the LSP can be a little tricky and some combos that seem obvious (e.g., Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo and Pinnacle Souveran Wax) don`t work out well at all IME.



3) The water-spritz is one old technique that still works well for me, so I`m not *entirely* negative about the old ways of doing things :D Chilled distilled water seems to work best, and I`ll often use a QD instead (though that can sometimes bite me if it affects a solvent-action on the freshly applied wax).

[Fishman]

...If you use the right shampoo (for the LSP in question), at the right concentration (not too weak to clean or so strong that it strips the LSP), with the right dwell time (same considerations), and a thorough rinsing, the LSP oughta still feel nice and slick.



So do you think that the loss of slickness from Z-7 is because I am using high a concentration of Z-7? Does anyone else lose the slick feel of Zaino when they wash with Z-7?




...3) The water-spritz is one old technique that still works well for me, so I`m not *entirely* negative about the old ways of doing things :D Chilled distilled water seems to work best, and I`ll often use a QD instead (though that can sometimes bite me if it affects a solvent-action on the freshly applied wax).



I have a problem applying too much Zaino, I think. Do you guys think that until I learn to use the right amount, that the water-spritz would be a good final step?

[imported_GregCavi]

So do you think that the loss of slickness from Z-7 is because I am using high a concentration of Z-7? Does anyone else lose the slick feel of Zaino when they wash with Z-7?







I have a problem applying too much Zaino, I think. Do you guys think that until I learn to use the right amount, that the water-spritz would be a good final step?





I would guess you are using to much z7. I exclusively use Z7 to maintain my finish which is Z5pro and CS. I couldn`t even tell you how much I use per 5 gallon bucket it it`s probably a 1-2 second pour. (if that even makes sense). Try using less next time. When I use it, I don`t lose any slickness. True, it will slowly lose slickness over time but it shouldn`t be a, "WOW I have no slickness left."



For applying zaino, take your provided applicator and from one bottom corner to the opposite top corner place a line about the thickness of a spaghetti noodle. Take your app, fold it over so you have an X on your applicator. With that, You can probably do half of a car. Thin is in with Zaino. If you can BARELY see it, you`re doing it just right.



I`m sure you can use water on the zaino between coats but I think it`s just more effective to use Z6.



Greg

[ALAN81]

1 and 3 yes NO WAY on 2

[Licit]

I never have "slickness" issues but then again I clay(mild or ultra fine) more frequently than most.

[Accumulator]

Fishman- Sorry, but I`m the wrong guy to ask those (Zaino-specific) questions as I don`t use Zaino :nixweiss Go with what guys like GregCavi say.

[Fishman]

I would guess you are using to much z7. I exclusively use Z7 to maintain my finish which is Z5pro and CS. I couldn`t even tell you how much I use per 5 gallon bucket it it`s probably a 1-2 second pour. (if that even makes sense). Try using less next time. When I use it, I don`t lose any slickness. True, it will slowly lose slickness over time but it shouldn`t be a, "WOW I have no slickness left."



For applying zaino, take your provided applicator and from one bottom corner to the opposite top corner place a line about the thickness of a spaghetti noodle. Take your app, fold it over so you have an X on your applicator. With that, You can probably do half of a car. Thin is in with Zaino. If you can BARELY see it, you`re doing it just right.



I`m sure you can use water on the zaino between coats but I think it`s just more effective to use Z6.



Greg



Thanks Greg. That gives me a good feel for how much Zaino to use next time.