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SuperBee364
03-16-2009, 02:22 PM
Greg Nichols and I just spent the last three days detailing a C5 Corvette (with a partial re-paint) and a Ferrari 360 Modena F1 package.



This gave us an opportunity to try out the new formula M105 and also M205. Here`s our experiences...



First, the new M105 does work very well with a DA. I have never seen a PC do so much correction. That`s the good news. The bad news is that I was far from impressed using the new M105 with a rotary. I loved the old formula`s ability to cut *fast* and cut *hard*. The new formula doesn`t do either. It has far less cutting ability, and for any given level of correction, the new stuff is going to take longer to do it. Bummer.



Yes, the new 105 could be considered "easier to use", but so what? There are other Meg`s products that fall into the "easy to use" category for those that want "easy to use" products. When I grab a bottle of 105, "ease of use" just doesn`t come to mind; cutting fast and hard is what does. I really wish Meguairs would have said, "for those of you having problems with 105, please use product X instead" and left 105`s formula alone.



Both new and old 105 seem to have the same finishing ability, and that would fall into the "excellent" category, especially when you consider that they are heavy cut compounds. Well, at least the old formula is a heavy cut compound. I would rate the new stuff at a cut level of 9 compared to the old stuff at 12.



Now to address the current excitement about using DA`s and 105.... Yeah, it works. It works really well. You can do some amazing one step correction *and* have it finish off pretty well. And all with a DA. The bad news: Don`t throw away your rotary yet. It takes a long, long application time to work 105 from correcting all the way to finishing with a DA. Pack a lunch. I`m just going to abbreviate how we did it, and leave the detailed process to Kevin Brown when he publishes his paper. What we did was to prime the pad very well with 105. Then place a small amount directly to the PC`s pad. If your pad is primed well, and you have the proper amount on your pad, you can now put that buffer to paint and work it for about 5 minutes. Yup, that`s right.. You can work it for a long time. It didn`t start to dust or dry on us until 5 minutes. During that time, you press hard to do the correction step. Keep pressing hard until you have achieved the level of correction desired. Then, just let off on the pressure, and keep letting off on the pressure until you`re down to just the weight of the PC. Then do a couple passes with just the weight of the PC. Depending on the hardness of the paint (on two cars we had very hard, medium, and very soft clear to work with due to one car being partially resprayed), you may be rewarded with a completely corrected, darn near LSP ready finish. On other clears, you will have the typical compounding marks and holograms.



Now maybe it`s just the fact that it was our first time to try this method, or maybe it`s just because this is true... it took us much longer to do the 105 with PC method than it did for us to use the old 105 with a rotary. Much longer. Like.. a really long time. For me, it is still much more time effective to use either old or new 105 with a rotary than to use the PC. But it is great to at least have the ability to use 105 and a PC as an option. It really gives the PC more reach than it has ever had before.



205 is a bit of an enigma to me. It doesn`t correct nearly as well as 105, which is no surprise as Meg`s rates it as a 4 on their scale of 1 to 12 aggressiveness scale. But it also doesn`t seem to finish down as well as 105 does. For me, at least. Even with a no bite pad (which is all I used 205 with) I was not able to get it to finish down acceptably on any clear: hard, medium, or soft. It`s important to note that this was with a rotary. I haven`t tried it with a PC yet. I`m going to try it with a PC on my car "real soon now."



Now guys, please note that this is just my initial impressions of these products after using them for three days. I am sure that there are other, better ways, techniques, etc. when it comes to using these products. It would be great to hear from others that have had better experiences, more experience, different techniques that work well with these exciting new Meg`s products.

imported_Ivan Rajic
03-16-2009, 03:04 PM
Awesome post SUper... I`m anxious to try both asap

Dsoto87
03-16-2009, 03:10 PM
Right when I heard about the new formula having a longer working time, the first thing that ca.e to mind was why?



Just like you said, the whole point of m105 is to be a fast cutting hard hitting compound right?



So why take away the fast part?



Granted I never used it on a rotary, and I have ready many peoples stories about it flashing too quick, its work time is perfect on the pc.



Because of its fast flashing nature, and non diminishing micro abrasives, it made up for where the pc lacks, power and time.



Sorry to go off on another tangent. It just seems to me the old version is more pc friendly than the new. I haven`t had problems with the pad gumming up, atleast not yet.



I`ve been debating whether I should go down and buy the last few quarts of the old version m105 at my local auto paint supply store. I just have a feeling people are going to be looking for the old version further down the line. I guess the jury is still out on this new version. I`m more than happy with my v1 and pc

imported_weekendwarrior
03-16-2009, 03:14 PM
I can get a full correction QUICKER with the PC and the old M105, or Solo (M86), than I can with a rotary. Solo will finish out better than M105 using the KB method, to my eye anyway. But, I have also been playing with this method since last April with the Flex as well as the PC with 4" and 5.5" pads.



I haven`t bought the new M105, and probably won`t. There is a paint store near me that still has a lot of the previous formula in stock.



EDIT - on a hard C5 or C6, I use the KB method, with the old M105 and an orange LC pad on the Flex, and get great results quickly.



Another EDIT (lol) - I also prefer 3M ECC to M105 when used with the rotary.

Lumadar
03-16-2009, 03:29 PM
I have yet to have M205 NOT finish superbly well. In fact, the best my car has EVER looked was after a 1 step with M205 on Meg`s yellow via rotary.



I did notice that if you try to buff it dry (like with M105) it will cause slight marring. That leads me to believe you may be slightly over working the product.



I tend to start out at about 1,000 RPMS, spread the product, and "work it" for 1 pass, then bump it to about 1,400-500~ RPMS and make several (4~) passes with medium pressure, and then back to 1,000 RPMs and light pressure for 2~ more passes. Never had a hologram, never didn`t notice a significant increase in gloss, clarity, and depth from what is usually my previous step of M105 on Meg`s yellow.

Jason M
03-16-2009, 03:32 PM
When you say a "no cut" pad what pad where you using? 205 was specifically designed around the Meg`s black pad IIRC. Given how pad dependent these new polishes are maybe it`s worth a try? I only use Meg`s pads so I can`t comment on how much better they may or may not work with 205. I know that d151 finishes down better on the black pad than it does on a yellow pad.

SuperBee364
03-16-2009, 03:46 PM
I have yet to have M205 NOT finish superbly well. In fact, the best my car has EVER looked was after a 1 step with M205 on Meg`s yellow via rotary.



I did notice that if you try to buff it dry (like with M105) it will cause slight marring. That leads me to believe you may be slightly over working the product.



I tend to start out at about 1,000 RPMS, spread the product, and "work it" for 1 pass, then bump it to about 1,400-500~ RPMS and make several (4~) passes with medium pressure, and then back to 1,000 RPMs and light pressure for 2~ more passes. Never had a hologram, never didn`t notice a significant increase in gloss, clarity, and depth from what is usually my previous step of M105 on Meg`s yellow.



I bet you`re right. I was working it in a similar manner as I was 105. Thanks for the tip!




When you say a "no cut" pad what pad where you using? 205 was specifically designed around the Meg`s black pad IIRC. Given how pad dependent these new polishes are maybe it`s worth a try? I only use Meg`s pads so I can`t comment on how much better they may or may not work with 205. I know that d151 finishes down better on the black pad than it does on a yellow pad.



We threw a lot of no bite pads at it, including Meg`s Soft Buff 2.0 Black finishing pad. That pad, btw, is now one of my favorites. The texture is very soft, but the pad itself is very firm; it is very tolerant of pressing down on it when you`re polishing. Fantastic pad for use with 105, for sure. I imagine it would give similar results with 205, but the only pad I had left when I was using 205 was an Edge 2000 red wave pad.



I`ve posted this before, but just to reiterate...



I only use zero cut pads (either finishing wool or zero bite foam) when I`m doing intermediate polishing or finishing polishing. I stay with a zero bite pad, and vary what kind of polish I`m using as appropriate to the paint and it`s condition. This makes it so that I know the finish I`m getting is completely the polishes result (or fault) and not the pad. IMO, pads don`t give you the final gloss, the polish does, so to keep the pad from interfering, use a zero bite one. Using a pad with some bite to it will never give you the gloss that a zero bite pad will. (I bet I`m gonna get some interesting replies to that statement. :) ) That`s the way I feel for intermediate and finishing polish. Not quite the same for compounding/correcting, which is when you are very dependent on the pad to deliver extra umph for correction. I generally use PFW whenever I can because it finishes so well. If PFW won`t cut it, I`ll step up to a yellow Edge wool, and if that`s not enough, a black Edge wool. But for finishing... zero bite all the time.



105 with a zero bite pad is an amazing combo, too. It`ll do quite a bit of correcting, and then since you are using a zero bite pad, it will finish down to a nice finish. Just do a couple of passes using the weight of the buffer. It`s a great replacement for SIP.



Edit: I just re-read your post. Now you have me excited about trying 151 again. I`ll try it with the black soft buff 2.0 pad with both rotary and PC. I kinda gave up on it last summer after I just couldn`t seem to get it to finish down well. I bought a gallon of it, too. :/

gmblack3
03-16-2009, 04:21 PM
I can get a full correction QUICKER with the PC and the old M105, or Solo (M86), than I can with a rotary.

Another EDIT (lol) - I also prefer 3M ECC to M105 when used with the rotary.



I agree about using KBPCM is faster for me then a rotary, even when using the new M105.



I also prefer the ECC to M105 when using a rotary, but have yet to try KBRM.

SuperBee364
03-16-2009, 05:09 PM
Right when I heard about the new formula having a longer working time, the first thing that ca.e to mind was why?



Just like you said, the whole point of m105 is to be a fast cutting hard hitting compound right?



So why take away the fast part?



Granted I never used it on a rotary, and I have ready many peoples stories about it flashing too quick, its work time is perfect on the pc.



Because of its fast flashing nature, and non diminishing micro abrasives, it made up for where the pc lacks, power and time.



Sorry to go off on another tangent. It just seems to me the old version is more pc friendly than the new. I haven`t had problems with the pad gumming up, atleast not yet.



I`ve been debating whether I should go down and buy the last few quarts of the old version m105 at my local auto paint supply store. I just have a feeling people are going to be looking for the old version further down the line. I guess the jury is still out on this new version. I`m more than happy with my v1 and pc



Yup, I feel the same way. I know Meg`s already has a confusingly large product line, but I think they should have left the original formula 105 alone, then made a new version of it under a different product name... Maybe something like "Ultra Cutting Compound for Dual Action Buffers".



Shhhhhhhhh!!!!!! Don`t tell everyone about snapping up the old stuff! Wait until you and I both have our garages well-stocked!

wfedwar
03-16-2009, 05:33 PM
So what`s the difference between the new 105 and 95? I thought the only difference used to be (95 vs old 105) working time. Now which is better?

SuperBee364
03-16-2009, 05:38 PM
So what`s the difference between the new 105 and 95? I thought the only difference used to be (95 vs old 105) working time. Now which is better?



95 still behaves like a diminishing abrasive polish; you apply it and work it til it goes clear, stop and remove. Very "traditional", and easy to use.



105 is a lot like using your buffer as a sander. Think of your 105 primed pad as a sanding disk. It`s kind of a crude analogy, but accurate at the same time. You can work it as long as the polish isn`t dry.



I`m not sure you can really say one is better than the other. They are very different in the way they are used, which kinda makes it the old "apples to oranges" analogy. This is probably just me, but I can`t get 95 to finish out quite as well as either formula of 105.

wfedwar
03-16-2009, 05:41 PM
Ok. I thought the abrasives were the same, just the 95 had longer working lubes. Thanks for the correction.

resek
03-16-2009, 07:54 PM
........



What we did was to prime the pad very well with 105. Then place a small amount directly to the PC`s pad. If your pad is primed well, and you have the proper amount on your pad, you can now put that buffer to paint and work it for about 5 minutes



..................





Can someone explain me EXACTLY what is : Prime the pad well with M1005.!



Honestly, i can`t figure out what you guys mean by that. Any videos showing someone priming the pad with m105 ?

Maybe it`s cause i`m french, i don`t understand the "prime" word ...

I understand everything else from Kevin Brown`s method.



Thanks in advance !

:up

wannafbody
03-16-2009, 07:59 PM
I think if your going to use a PC or Flex exclusively stick with the Megs Ultimate Compound.

imported_Ivan Rajic
03-16-2009, 09:00 PM
Can someone explain me EXACTLY what is : Prime the pad well with M1005.!



Honestly, i can`t figure out what you guys mean by that. Any videos showing someone priming the pad with m105 ?

Maybe it`s cause i`m french, i don`t understand the "prime" word ...

I understand everything else from Kevin Brown`s method.



Thanks in advance !

:up



You take a fresh pad, you take a bottle of polish, then you spread that polish onto the pad, covering maybe 70% of the surface... then by hand, you rub the polish into the pad so the surface of the pad becomes saturated with the polish (I say polish because priming the pad like this works great with any polish, even with diminishing abrasives, not just M105)... after you do that, you apply less polish onto the pad, or onto the paint, as you would normally, and proceed with the polishing...